Advice needed on Fert routine.

[stocker]

Tank Dimensions (LxWxH, specify units): 2x1x1 feet

Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : 36W
Number and type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : 2x18WFL
Age of light bulbs : 2 months
No. of hours your lights are on : 10

CO2 Injection Rate (bps) : 0.5
Type of CO2 (DIY/Cylinder) : Cylinder
Method of Injection (e.g. Diffusor/Reactor) : Reactor (internal)

Liquid fertilisers Used (Product name. E.g. Seachem Flourish) :
Fertilization regime (Frequency and amount per dose) : weekly KNO3 and Equilibrium 1/8 tsp

Other fertilisers (Product name. E.g. Root Monster) : Root MOnster

Other additives (Product name. E.g. Seachem Prime) : None

Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister, Product name/model if possible) : Eheim 2222
When was the filter last washed :
Filter media used : cotton wool, Ehfi-substrate (i think)
When was the media last changed :
What was changed :

Age of setup (i.e. since initial setup or last major re-do ) : 1 Month

Water change frequency :
Amount changed :

Water surface movement (None/gentle/turbulent) : PC Fan Gentle
Circulation (None/gentle/turbulent) : Gentle

Tank Temperature : 27-28C

Chemical Properties (Fill what you can)
-------------------------------------
KH (dKH):
GH (dGH):
pH :
NH4 (ppm):
NO2 (ppm):
NO3 (ppm):
PO4 (ppm):
Fe (ppm):

Bioload (Number and type of fish and plants)
------------------------------------------
3x Rummy Nose, 3x Cardinal Tetra, 1x Dwarf Pencil, 5x Yamato shrimp, 3x Malayan shrimp
See attached Pic

Describe your problem :
----------------------
Some BBA on driftwood and crypts. A little on vals, Echi, rear glass

Not sure how to dose Fert correctly. I have tried to read up on the EI, but it seems to address high light tank with frequent dosing.

Can I actually do weekly dosing with monthly water changes? I do not mind reducing the lighting either. I am hoping for a lower-maint tank if possible...

Thanks in advance for any help!

[PeterGwee]

You can get away with less water changes say 50% fortnightly instead of weekly but tanks do look better with water changes. If you still find it a hassle to change water, my view is that you should go non-CO2 then. No water changes for a very long time say 6months or longer depending on the health of the tank.

You need to add in KH2PO4 and a general trace product into your regime. Go for 1.5-2ppm for the PO4 and 2.5ml of the general trace mix like TMG/Flourish and etc. Unless you trim alot per week, dosing once after the water changes should be fine. If not, simply add another dose to make 2x a week once the growth hits high rate.

For the BBA, add more CO2 slowly. Remove all the current BBA growth and add a tad more CO2. Have some surface movement (not alot) if you don't. Watch the shrimps/fish behaviour closely when you do this increment of CO2. Do it when you have time to stay around the tank the whole day. You only need to watch the critters for that day of increment and watch the plant/algae response for the week. The BBA should not grow or come back if the CO2 is indeed good. If it comes back again, add a bit more. (eg. 1bps now..increase slowly to 1.1-1.2bps. NOT 2bps!).

Regards
Peter Gwee

[stocker]

Do I need flourish since I am using equilibrium? or I should use flourish to replace equilibrium? thks again...

[PeterGwee]

Add flourish or any general trace mix to your routine. (Not Seachem trace...just the flourish.)

Regards
Peter Gwee

[stocker]

So I need not use Equilibrium anymore correct?

thx again Peter!

[PeterGwee]

The EQ is for covering the Ca/Mg side if there is anything lacking. You might get away with it or just want to be on the safe side and use it.

Regards
Peter Gwee