chiller-kicking time-Help!

[neon]

Neon, i got the 1262 from C328 today, bought the 22mm hoses and clamp but LFS does not sell the reducer between 16mm and 22mm hose..Homefix also not selling. Where can get it??? anyone can help?

See the picture how I DIY myself which is fairly secured.

a) Take note of the 22mm hose. The fastener is actually eheim part for securing the 22mm size hose to any joint. You can buy any type as long as it can hold both the reducer and the 22mm hose. I think I bought the reducer in a neighbourhood hardware store. As long it can fit nicely. Cut a small piece of 22mm hose and bring along to the hardware shop to check size for fitting.



b) Now try to fit into 16mm hose



(c) now secure the 16mm hose and make sure the 16mm hose goes all the way into the reducer and grip on the bigger size of the reduce




Hope it helps !

[solonavi]

Try this company. U can pratically get any PVC joint and connector from them.
Hai Cheong Plastics Pte Ltd
Address : 53 Ubi Ave 1 #01-27 Paya Ubi Ind Pk Singapore 408934
Telephone : 6841 2912
Fax : 6841 2952

Cheers
JC

[zenscape]

Thanks Neon for taking the problem to DL the pic with so detailed description and JC for being so helpful.

Yesterday, as i'd not bought the reducer, i tried the other way just to see whether the pump when help the chiller to reduce cooling time. I put the 1262 pump into the tank and the out-let hose(16mm) to the canister filter 2028 and then to the chiller.

This layout was a failure! I took out the impeller like the bro here advised. The canister filter just leaked out water when i switched on the pump. Then i realised the problem: The 2080 filter is meant to take in flow rate of about 1200L/hr. The 1262 pump churned out 3200L/hr! i guess the pump is too powerful for the canister

No choice, fixed the pump outlet to the chiller directly and let the canister runs separate and after a few water outburst.. the set up ran smoothly.

However, my problem still remains: The chiller still needs 1 hr to chill 25.9 to 25.1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So the problem may not be the flow rate for the chiller as the 1262 pump can generate enough flow rate for Daeil 1/5. The problem is actually in the chiller. Don't know what to do now. Bought a S$200 plus pump and the problem remains sad

[BFG]

Zenscape, how long was the 2028 been in service? When you wrote that your 2028 leaked water, it remind me of my setup. Here's my experience.

My 2ft cube shrimp setup filter had not been maintained for nearly 2 years. Yes you read it right, nearly 2 years. 1 fine day, the 2222 was choked and I was at work that day. When I came home, the room was warmer than usual and I suspect that the chiller had been running too long. I immediately opened the tank cabinet and there it was, the sound of a 1048 trying to push water into a choked 2222. I switched off the 1048 and the chiller, disconnect the 2222 and carried it to the toilet to clean it. After cleaning the filter, I reconnect it back and switch on the pump. The filter started to leak water. It was near to 10pm then. I've done everything but the damm filter continue to leak. I then narrow down the leak to the big o-ring. The next day, took a cab to Nature and got a new replacement. Fixed it back and everything was fine.

I suspect that your o-ring might be the culprit. Or your theory might be correct too! I have a spare 2026 on standby and also has a few of the 12xx series pump lying around. I'll try your setup with my pumps and filter. I also have a (1/6hp?) 150w Daeil chiller sitting idly too. When I have the required hose, I will start the 'project'.

[neon]

This layout was a failure! I took out the impeller like the bro here advised. The canister filter just leaked out water when i switched on the pump. Then i realised the problem: The 2080 filter is meant to take in flow rate of about 1200L/hr. The 1262 pump churned out 3200L/hr! i guess the pump is too powerful for the canister

I think like what bro BFG described, your O-ring may be the culprit for leaking under the powerful flowrate.

However, my problem still remains: The chiller still needs 1 hr to chill 25.9 to 25.1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So the problem may not be the flow rate for the chiller as the 1262 pump can generate enough flow rate for Daeil 1/5. The problem is actually in the chiller. Don't know what to do now. Bought a S$200 plus pump and the problem remains sad

My Hailea 1 HP chiller for my 6x2x2 tank with 2 x 150W MH + 2 x55W PL can chill down ~0.1 deg C/min. I guess 1/5 HP will require relatively that amount of time.

[zenscape]

Zenscape, how long was the 2028 been in service? When you wrote that your 2028 leaked water, it remind me of my setup. Here's my experience.

My 2ft cube shrimp setup filter had not been maintained for nearly 2 years. Yes you read it right, nearly 2 years. 1 fine day, the 2222 was choked and I was at work that day. When I came home, the room was warmer than usual and I suspect that the chiller had been running too long. I immediately opened the tank cabinet and there it was, the sound of a 1048 trying to push water into a choked 2222. I switched off the 1048 and the chiller, disconnect the 2222 and carried it to the toilet to clean it. After cleaning the filter, I reconnect it back and switch on the pump. The filter started to leak water. It was near to 10pm then. I've done everything but the damm filter continue to leak. I then narrow down the leak to the big o-ring. The next day, took a cab to Nature and got a new replacement. Fixed it back and everything was fine.

I suspect that your o-ring might be the culprit. Or your theory might be correct too! I have a spare 2026 on standby and also has a few of the 12xx series pump lying around. I'll try your setup with my pumps and filter. I also have a (1/6hp?) 150w Daeil chiller sitting idly too. When I have the required hose, I will start the 'project'.

Hi BFG, my 2028 has been around for 2 years. The water leakage was heavy, like flushing out (after a dam is broken..haha) between the motor head and the container. The leakage you experienced was fast or slow??

According to Mr Tan of Bioplast, 150w Daeil is 1/5hp. Really envy you, so many spare ones to play around with. Please do let us know whether the layout works..for safety, place the cannister in a big basin before you switch on the power of the pump.

I encountered two tsunami at my living room last saturday. One was the big flush out from the cannister. While i was busy toying the cannister, the outlet hose of the pump came out and i had a bloody four feet fountain!!!!! you can imagine the mess.. also, make sure your wife is not around when you try the "project"..haha

[zenscape]

I think like what bro BFG described, your O-ring may be the culprit for leaking under the powerful flowrate.

My Hailea 1 HP chiller for my 6x2x2 tank with 2 x 150W MH + 2 x55W PL can chill down ~0.1 deg C/min. I guess 1/5 HP will require relatively that amount of time.

Ok neon, I fixed back my previous set up, giving up the pump.. That is, the filter canister driving the chiller. Now i max out the flow rate of the canister about 170 GPH, which is not enough for the recommended minimum of 480 GPH for the chiller. Previously i was concerned with the high flow rate in the tank, creating a mess. I am using this green colour Co2 diffusor/reactor with black balls in it. The outlet is now fixed to a rain bar. Can see tiny co2 spreading everyway in the tank, abit like what Tom Barr said in his Co2 Mist Theory. But i must say that the plants are pearl'g more now..

Revert back to the chiller problem. Your Hailea is indeed very powerful to chill 0.1 deg C/min. I called Mr Tan of Bioplast and asked him why the Daeil 1/5 HP cant achieve the rate previously mentioned by you in this thread. He said a typical chilling time for Daeil 1/5HP is about 45 mins for 0.8 degree C. He said your chiller is powerful enough to do the job at the said timing.

Incidentally, after i refixed the initial layout and max out the flowrate of the cannister filter, the chilling time is 35 to 45 mins for 0.8deg. Off time about 1.5 to 2 hrs. All measurement done with 288w of PL lights on.

On the other hand, with a 1262 pump of 3400 LPH, the chiller took 1 to 1.5hr to chill 0.8 deg c and Off time is about 1 hr to raise 0.8 deg c(which means the chiller worked more than cutting off!!!!!!)

I still can't figure why?? I guess maybe the pump itself generates heat at 80W as it can be seen from the chiller off time that the water temp went up more quickly.

At the end of the day, my conclusion based on the experiment done over the weekend, my chiller is not in a better condition with a pump providing a faster flow rate.

[BFG]

According to Mr Tan of Bioplast, 150w Daeil is 1/5hp. Really envy you, so many spare ones to play around with. Please do let us know whether the layout works..for safety, place the cannister in a big basin before you switch on the power of the pump.

You won't believe the amount of Eheim stuff I have in my home. Here's the list;

Eheim Universal pump.
4x1048-2 still in box, 1 currently connected to a unpowered 2222 and another connected to a diy kalkwasser reactor.
1x1250-Sitting idly
2x1260-Sitting idly
1x1262-Sitting idly

Eheim canister Filter.
1x2222-Shrimp tank
3x2026-2 for my dad fish tank and 1 sitting idly, use it also for my dad fish tank when he has no time to clean the filter, just switch around.

Eheim Internal filter.
1x2006-Still in box

Other pumps.
3xSicce Extrema
1xQuietone 6000
1xEden 214

Next Purchase-
4xEden 501-Might use it to wet my hand with nano setup. Still have a few idea about it.
2xIceCap Vortech pump-Product under beta testing at this moment. Have to get this for my new setup.

[zenscape]

You won't believe the amount of Eheim stuff I have in my home. Here's the list;

Eheim Universal pump.
4x1048-2 still in box, 1 currently connected to a unpowered 2222 and another connected to a diy kalkwasser reactor.
1x1250-Sitting idly
2x1260-Sitting idly
1x1262-Sitting idly

Eheim canister Filter.
1x2222-Shrimp tank
3x2026-2 for my dad fish tank and 1 sitting idly, use it also for my dad fish tank when he has no time to clean the filter, just switch around.

Eheim Internal filter.
1x2006-Still in box

Other pumps.
3xSicce Extrema
1xQuietone 6000
1xEden 214

Next Purchase-
4xEden 501-Might use it to wet my hand with nano setup. Still have a few idea about it.
2xIceCap Vortech pump-Product under beta testing at this moment. Have to get this for my new setup.

Haha.. I think some of the LFS can't beat you in stock keeping! If there is an Eheim fans club, you will be the moderator again..LOL

[BFG]

Well, the Universal pump won't be sitting idly forever. If my plan goes through, they have to work full-time around May this year.

[neon]

Ok neon, I fixed back my previous set up, giving up the pump.. That is, the filter canister driving the chiller. Now i max out the flow rate of the canister about 170 GPH, which is not enough for the recommended minimum of 480 GPH for the chiller. Previously i was concerned with the high flow rate in the tank, creating a mess. I am using this green colour Co2 diffusor/reactor with black balls in it. The outlet is now fixed to a rain bar. Can see tiny co2 spreading everyway in the tank, abit like what Tom Barr said in his Co2 Mist Theory. But i must say that the plants are pearl'g more now..

Revert back to the chiller problem. Your Hailea is indeed very powerful to chill 0.1 deg C/min. I called Mr Tan of Bioplast and asked him why the Daeil 1/5 HP cant achieve the rate previously mentioned by you in this thread. He said a typical chilling time for Daeil 1/5HP is about 45 mins for 0.8 degree C. He said your chiller is powerful enough to do the job at the said timing.

Incidentally, after i refixed the initial layout and max out the flowrate of the cannister filter, the chilling time is 35 to 45 mins for 0.8deg. Off time about 1.5 to 2 hrs. All measurement done with 288w of PL lights on.

On the other hand, with a 1262 pump of 3400 LPH, the chiller took 1 to 1.5hr to chill 0.8 deg c and Off time is about 1 hr to raise 0.8 deg c(which means the chiller worked more than cutting off!!!!!!)

I still can't figure why?? I guess maybe the pump itself generates heat at 80W as it can be seen from the chiller off time that the water temp went up more quickly.

At the end of the day, my conclusion based on the experiment done over the weekend, my chiller is not in a better condition with a pump providing a faster flow rate.

I think it is double-edge sword, the HP and flow rate requirement for the chiller must be balanced, too much/too little of one side , the other side will suffer.

BTW, is Daeil temperature senser supposely to be placed in the tank , right ? My original Hailea has it own internal temperature senser which work with the original thermostat. After I changed to Fox brand thermostat, the temperature senser has to be placed inside tank , which I preferred this method and felt more accurate .

[BFG]

Let's get back to the original programme.

I doubt the pump is giving off 80w of heat. I think the water flow is too much and too fast going through the chiller. The chiller for my 2ft cube shrimp tank took around 40-50 minute( I never took the time down ) with the 1048. The chiller brand is Sfiligoi but I do not know what model I have. Got it 2nd hand from Bioplast too and still in service after 2 years. I do not know how the chiller manufacturer got their numbers in relation to cooling down the tank water. Probably, they did not calculate the amount of heat the lights gives off too.

[BFG]

Neon, I agree with you on the external thermostat. Over time, I have seen the effect of a external thermostat over an internal thermostat especially in aquarium setup that use a sump eg marine tank setup. My chiller ( Sfiligoi ) has an external thermostat too.

Benefit that I know of.
An external thermostat takes the temperature of the main tank. If the temperature is still within range, the chiller will no be activated. But if you have a chiller that has an internal thermostat, it takes the water temperature that it receive. This water might have gone through a canister filter, a pump head or even a sump and the temperature will be a degree more than the main tank. Why? Because the water that travel through this equipment might be 'heated' up ( not much, a degree or so ) but the main tank temperature might not yet fluctuate. So if your main tank temp is 25, your chiller might be receiving water that is 1 degree off or higher from the main tank.

Knowing this, it is better to have an external temperature probe in the main tank than in the chiller itself. And those China made chiller looks to be attractive now if you add a external temperature probe. Cost lesser than other branded chiller even with the extra temp probe. Make sense right?

Just my humble opinion.

[tawauboy]

the chilling speed depends on
i) chiller capacity
ii) surrounding ambient condition.

chiller - 1/5hp is about 150w; 1hp = 743w. check the cooling capacity, if available in btu. check www for btu definition and the conversion to watts. this should tell you the expected cooling time.

ambient condition - this plays a significant part. if you ambient is 28 degrees, your tank will absorb heat when it dips below 28 degrees. when the temperature difference is greater (between tank and ambient), the chiller has to work longer to chill the water. one way to minimize the impact ambient condition will be to cover the 2 sides and back of your tank with styrofoam sheets.

[neon]

BFG, totally agreed the external temperature probe should be the way to go.

Although Hailea is made in China with titanium coil, but it is actually AquaMedic rebrand . Not sure whether the original AquaMedic is made in China or not. Except one is in gray , the other is black. I am surprise to see my powerful 1 HP is small foothold/size as similar as other brand of 1/2 HP, ie Teco. In matter of fact, same Hailea brand various HP has very similar dimension of slight differences only.

Tawauboy, thanks for the info. I can see 150w vs 743w = 5 times, so cool in 10 mins, 1/5HP cool in ~50mins. Not sure if 1/5 taking that time to chill by then, the tank should also be heated up slowly and drag the chilling further. Whether the overall 1 HP vs 1/5 HP in a same tank , which is more cost saving in power bill ? But for sure, I won't need to hear the chiller sound for extra 40 mins.

Cheers

[tawauboy]

i don't have the figures but you can calculate it based on btu (british thermal unit).
electricity usage should be only be marginally lesser for a 1hp chiller. the amount of heat to remove from your tank is independent of the chiller cooling capacity. however, you should save on maintenance (wear and tear) because the much shorter duty cycle.

[neon]

Yah, you are right on the wear and tear part !

Cheers

[zenscape]

I also agree on the wear and tear and lesser frequency of noise of a higher capacity chiller. But the downside may be the constant stress the fish has to take for a sudden temperature drop within a short period of time. At the end of the day, it depends what objective we are looking at.

Now i am tempted to get a higher capacity chiller..