Was wondering if anyone can advise me on the type and brand of model for a chiller for the above mentioned tank size. Also looking at the price range as I am on a tight budget.
Thanks and have a nice day
Nicholas
Newbie en el cichlid enano
If you are a DIY person and know how to handlering electrical stuff , maybe you can consider DIY a microchiller using TEM technology.
Something like the links below
http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=228620
http://www.shrimpnow.com/modules.php...warticle&id=40
I have not tried it yet, but had been reading about it for the past few days since my 1.3ft endlers tank had been hitting 32C easily.
Last edited by cairocks; 24th Jun 2006 at 02:11.
silane had self-made a micro-chiller, may make a comparison on which work out better for you.Originally Posted by Wackytpt
Was wondering if anyone can advise me on the type and brand of model for a chiller for the above mentioned tank size. Also looking at the price range as I am on a tight budget.
Thanks and have a nice day
The Happiest of people don't neccessary have the best of everything;
they just make the most of everything that comes along their way
When will there be 25 letters in the alphabets?
I have recieved a few PM at various forum asking for my opinion in using TEM based chiller for 1.5ft.
IMO, TEM is illy suited for cooling 1.5ft tank. The reason is:
- TEM is very low electricity efficient, it run in DC, alot of 'waste' happens in powersupply and then heat conversion process.
- High starting cost, you will need 2 unit of TEM (about 10A) type to cool a 1.5ft. The cost is about $300 in total.
- High fan noise, to facilitate heat dissipate for such a long amount of water, a lot if heat has to be drawn out from hot side of TEM. To overcome this problem, so DIY seller use very high speed high decibel fan which can be too irritating to ear.
My recommendation is to go for CL280, Resun, it is below $300, moreoever it runs at lower electricity comsumption and can drive up to 2.5ft and very quiet.
For smaller tank volume, TEM based chiller has its place.
silane
silane bro, to drive a CL280, what's the minimum flowrate requirement? I'm alittle puzzled, if the CL280 require a higher flowrate (eden501 is 300litre/hr), would it create a turbulence effect inside the tank?
Because what i've observed, eden501 is quite sufficient for my 1.5feet tank, which explains my headache now, should i forgo my eden501 to get a higher flowrate for the chiller?
I don't think he eden is powerful enough to drive the chiller. If you hook up the eden to the chiller flowrate will be greatly affected and also the flow rate is not fast enough to let the CL280 run efficiently.
I think you need at least a 500L/HR filter (my estimation). Alternatively u can get just a external pump just to cycle water through the chiller.
Kemp,
On the too high flowrate part caused by any filter, I don't see a cause to worry. I am using a Ehiem 2028 on a 2ft and another Jebo 1200l/hr on another 2ft, the rainbar were position to jet water onto wall to reduce the tubulence.
silane
Silane,
what would be an ideal suggestion to power a CL280 for my 1.5ft tank if i still wants to use my eden 501 filter?
Use and external pump (i think min is 1000) or I should change an external canister filter?
If use canister filter, what do you suggest ? (can a 2213 be sufficient?
Nicholas
Newbie en el cichlid enano
Nicholas, just nice you've came up with what i've wanted to enquire also. Silane, what's your view?
EDEN 501 is definitely under power to power the CL280.
Nicholas
Newbie en el cichlid enano
yes i know, but quite a pity to decommision my eden501 because just bought it less than 2months ago only.
Could we just keep the eden501 and maybe get a pump or something to drive the CL280?
Kemp,
CL280 specifies that it need a flowrate of 500l/hr to 1000l/hr. Eden 501 beside that it does not meet the flowrate requirement, I suspect it does not have the power to push at its maximum flowrate because of the height of resun 280.
The choice is to use a 500 to 600l/hr canister filter like Ehiem Ecco series (or other series, even another brand will do too) with Resun 280.
Or use a power head that is around 600/hr.
I am not too worry with large flowrate to create turbulence, you can alway position the spraybar at the wall , we an angle to reduce the tubulence to the lowest. I am using this method with ehiem 2028 with a 2 ft tank, a hobbyist saw my setup and quite surprised to see there is not much water movement.
silane
yes u could get a pump and daisy chain together and get more flowrate.
What silane say is true. Even for my 1.5ft cube tank i using total of 1800L/hr flow rate with no problem. I using a Ecco 2234 and a Eheim 1250 external pump.
Anyway u can always add a tap to the output to control the output of the water.
Chiller needs a minimum flowrate for efficiency cooling. Chillers have a internal reservoir where the cooling take place. If the turnover (flowrate) is too slow, the internal reservoir quickly gets chilled to the required temperature and cut off with seconds or a couple of minute. And when the warmer water slowly trickle into reservior, the chiller kicks in again very soon.
Therefore, when the chiller cuts in and out at very short intervals, the flow rate is too slow.
I am using a Resun CL450 on my 2-ft tank. I used to use a Hydor Prime 10. But the flowrate was not high enough. The chiller was turning on/off at 1 min on, 3 min off. Until I switch to a Rena xP1, it start to operate normally. However, flowrate of xP1 is a tad high for a 2-ft tank. I have to direct the outlet onto the back tank wall to prevent a whirlpool effect in my tank.
The min flowrate is one thing you might want to consider for sizing your chiller.
BC
hi spinex,
do you happen to have a picture/diagram to show the daisy chain setup?
Thanks in advance
Was using a 2213 together with a CL280 for my 1.5ft tank. Combination works pretty well.
The recommended flow rate by Resun is 500 to 1000 liters/hr, and the flowrate for the 2213 is 440 liters/hr. So I think that is a pretty close match.
The chiller kicks in every 15 - 20 mins for approx the same amount of time to cool my tank to 24C.
Had the spray bar pointed slightly up against the back glass of the tank, plants stayed pretty still.
Now using a 2026 with the same CL280 to cool a 2ft X 2ft X1Ft tank to 24C. Pretty much the same set up.
The chiller runs longer but less often. So, I think in the end the amount of electricity used is the same.
Let me just bump this thread with a question.
Silane said in this thread that TEM based cooling would cost more than $300?
But in his tutorial he said it costs less than $30?
Which is it?
If it's the latter, I'm highly interested in doing this project.. Esp since it will allow me to experiment with it "wildly"..
If you people are looking for small chiller. You can take a look at Resun new CL200. It's 1/13HP running at 200w. Price wise is just a bit cheaper than CL280 but it's much smaller and running on a compressor.
I saw this CL200 at PetMart. Those interested can drop by or call to ask for more information.
PS : By the way i have no relation to Petmart. Just sharing what i saw.
firehorn,
To cool a 1.5ft, you need 2 units of mini chiller set with TEM of 8A to 12A at 12v, such set, someone is selling at about $150 per mini chiller and that;s where $300 come from. And indeed, a CRS hobbyists have to used 2 unit of mini chiller set to cool down his 1.5ft tank.
Do not mix up the price of a TEM alone and a mini chiller set. A TEM alone at $20 to $30 will not cool down things, you need to have heatsink, cold fin and power supply. All these add up to about $100++.
silane
yup.. k. thanks
experiment I shall!!! wahahaha...
I'm thinking 2 TEMs to be used. Black box to be placed in breezy but not sunny area to aid in cooling down. Fans may use CoolerMaster cuz they're quite quiet. Otherwise bo pian temporarily use my SilverStone one.. haha...
Just wondering... What is the max Temperature Diff for your TEM?
and wat is the diff between a coldsink and the standard heatsink?
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