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Thread: My algae problem...

  1. #1
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    My algae problem...

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    This is part 1, from my 4footer... Ever since I stopped water changes (been lazy) and continuing with fertilizing, I noticed that algae started appearing and had not been stopping after that!...





    They just grow and grow and get longer and longer... They are darn irritating!

    Oh, I also noticed that algae problems started with my change from PL to T5HO... I hope there's no specific connection...

    Will changing water religiously help to prevent them?
    Read me! :bigsmile: http://justikanz.blogspot.com/

    I'm crypt collecting... Starting cheap, now have Cryptocoryne beckettii, C.beckettii var petchii, C.crispatula var.balansae, C.griffithii(Melted! ), C.nurii, C.parva, C.pygmaea(Melted! ), C.tonkinensis(Melted! ), C.walkeri, C.wendtii 'Brown', C.wendtii 'Green', C.wendtii 'Green Gecko', C.wendtii 'Tropica' and Cryptocoryne x willisii

    Oh, juggling is hard work, man!...

  2. #2
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    who ask you to stop water change? i think that part is integral..

  3. #3
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    Something down the line to do with low CO2, having too much fish and feeding too much.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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    What about circulation? I do notice that my algae likes to grow in dead spots where shit likes to just hang around causing a mini ammonia bank...

    Also you using a 2026 right? Isn't it abit too low in flow? Moreover, you pass your outflow through a internal reactor and after that a flowbar right?
    ~ Vincent ~ Fishes calm your mind...
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/valice/





  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by valice
    What about circulation? I do notice that my algae likes to grow in dead spots where shit likes to just hang around causing a mini ammonia bank...

    Also you using a 2026 right? Isn't it abit too low in flow? Moreover, you pass your outflow through a internal reactor and after that a flowbar right?
    Dead spot = no CO2/nutrients getting to the plants. Poor plant growth and algae starts to dominate. The prandlt layer thingy is very real and can be shown via the CO2 mist method as compared to the normal aqueous CO2 at 30ppm.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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    But Peter, sometimes these dead spots are really hard to reach by the CO2 enriched water... Like say the rain bar is placed behind a hard scape or a mass of plants... The front area will not be reached as a result...
    ~ Vincent ~ Fishes calm your mind...
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/valice/





  7. #7
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    use small internal powerheads to increase circulation
    check out those by tunze

    http://www.reefdepot.com.sg/AddProduct.asp?ProdID=390
    Cheers,
    Melvin Lim

  8. #8
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    Though I am using the 2026, I don't see a problem with circulation... I think it might be a CO2 dispersion thing and like what Peter said, heavy feeding and too high a fauna population...

    Hmm... Seems like a HUGE water change is on the way... And maybe invite some people to catch some fish... *Sigh*...
    Read me! :bigsmile: http://justikanz.blogspot.com/

    I'm crypt collecting... Starting cheap, now have Cryptocoryne beckettii, C.beckettii var petchii, C.crispatula var.balansae, C.griffithii(Melted! ), C.nurii, C.parva, C.pygmaea(Melted! ), C.tonkinensis(Melted! ), C.walkeri, C.wendtii 'Brown', C.wendtii 'Green', C.wendtii 'Green Gecko', C.wendtii 'Tropica' and Cryptocoryne x willisii

    Oh, juggling is hard work, man!...

  9. #9
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    Try to use ehiem 2028.

    Ehiem 2026 is abit small. The circulation may not be complete.

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    Lower the fish load/feeding etc also.

    That's worth havign a ncier lookig nhealthier tank than an overstuffed tank.

    Too many fish => the higher the loading, the more chances of a problem that leads to algae.

    Adding progressively more fish/shrimp etc to a tank will eventually = algae blooms.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr

    www.BarrReport.com

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    Ditto to what Tom says. I had similar looking tank with discus population of 10/500liters. Using a E2028 and 2215.

    The Eheim 2026 pro II[172gph] is powerful enough for a 300 liter tank IMO. The 2028 pro II[198gph] is 15% more powerful in theory. I believe with more filter media the flowrate would be slowed down and basically perform at similar rates.

    Although i dislike SAE's[love hate relationship], I think they are great at keeping the hairy population down and giving the plants a chance to bloom.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    So, do you guys think I should change the filter to 2028? I need to check the price if need to...

    I find that the problem starts when my SAE died... But I started to use T5HOs also at that time...

    Now my tenellus lawn looks like an algae lawn... And Yamato shrimps don't do anything to impact it...

    I will do a 50% water change first, then a good cleaning of my 2026. Then will look into how to decrease the bioload...

    Thanks, guys...
    Read me! :bigsmile: http://justikanz.blogspot.com/

    I'm crypt collecting... Starting cheap, now have Cryptocoryne beckettii, C.beckettii var petchii, C.crispatula var.balansae, C.griffithii(Melted! ), C.nurii, C.parva, C.pygmaea(Melted! ), C.tonkinensis(Melted! ), C.walkeri, C.wendtii 'Brown', C.wendtii 'Green', C.wendtii 'Green Gecko', C.wendtii 'Tropica' and Cryptocoryne x willisii

    Oh, juggling is hard work, man!...

  13. #13
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    I have the exact same algae too. Its those fuzzy hair algae. You can never finish removing them by hand coz they simply multiply very fast. I feel the Yamatos will only eat the "fresher" ones and leave the long and blackish ones alone. I think your fert regime plays a important part in eradicating this algae too. If you have stopped changiing water, i suppose you also stopped your fert regime too right? These algae seems to be more persistant then BGA and BBA... Like PeterGwee said, they are a higher form of algae... maybe thats why...

    Previously i never really had a fert regime.
    What i did to combat this thing was, remove all my mosses and plants infected with the algae. After a large water change >50%. Starting dosing on EI.

    Because i am using T5 too, my dosing is on the high side.
    Sunday - 50% water change plus EI dosing
    Monday - ferka balance K and aquatilizer (2pumps each)
    Tuesday - EI dosing
    Wednesday - ferka balance K and aquatilizer (2pumps each)
    Thursday - EI dosing
    Friday - ferka balance K and aquatilizer (2pumps each)
    Sat - Rest.
    Everyday - 6drops of micros

    After following this fert regime, which isin't really that troublesome as i initially thought it was... seems like the growth of hair algae has decline. Of course, i still remove manually any visible traces of the algae everyday. Hopefully, i'll get pass them soon...
    Eugene (^_^)
    De Dwergcichlide Fanatiek
    Now swimming: Plecos and Apistogrammas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justikanz
    So, do you guys think I should change the filter to 2028? I need to check the price if need to...

    I find that the problem starts when my SAE died... But I started to use T5HOs also at that time...
    Look out for 2nd hands... Cheaper way to upgrade your equipment...

    SAE is actually a very good algae remover... Not only BBA (although, can be disappointing), but as they like to graze around, those fine fuzzy algae are also eaten up by them... But if got those algae on your moss... THere goes the mosses too...
    ~ Vincent ~ Fishes calm your mind...
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/valice/





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    I had similar algae last month, it would just grow and grow, even if you removed it manually. EI did not help combat this, it was called Spyrogyra, maybe similar to this. Everything was perfect, plants growing and pearling,
    Co2 was over 40ppm. As the plants were flourishing, so was this algae. Someone advised to use long finned Rosy Barbs, so I got 5 and by morning, they ate it all. It was amazing. SAE's did not eat the stuff.

    So even if your dosing is fine, Co2 at peak, water clean, this algae can grow along with it. But mine was Spyrogrya. Try Rose Barbs, they might eat it.

    Oh and in my 4ft I am using Eheim ProII 2026 with Substrat, Ehfi Mech, and 2028 with Substrat pro and Ehfi Mech. I do have to slow down the flow a little.

    Cheers!
    80G 4ft Planted tank, pressurized CO2, 3bps, 288 watts HOFL, ADA Aquasoil, Powersand. Also 5 other small tanks 10-30g all non-co2 and low lights. Wife Acceptance Factor: Very bad

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    Rosy barbs... a new algae cleaning crew?
    Eugene (^_^)
    De Dwergcichlide Fanatiek
    Now swimming: Plecos and Apistogrammas

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    Not new, just an option as a voracious one. Not for tanks with small leaved or soft leaved plants.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

  18. #18
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    Nice...so they will eat up all the hair algae huh...hehehe will try one soon... see if they're that effective or not...

    Anyone with similar experience with them?
    Eugene (^_^)
    De Dwergcichlide Fanatiek
    Now swimming: Plecos and Apistogrammas

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by genes
    Nice...so they will eat up all the hair algae huh...hehehe will try one soon... see if they're that effective or not...

    Anyone with similar experience with them?
    Please make sure they are hungry> what I did was, put them in a bucket for 8 hours or so, no feeding. Then into the tank at night, I put 5 long finned small ones. By morning my Spyrogyra was gone, I continued not feeding the fishes, including all other fishes, for another 2 days, then once a day, minimal feeding. I have heard of people not feeding their tank for as long as 6 days, but I was generous. All my Spyro dissapeared. As a rule I keep a few Rosies in all my tanks. The long finned ones look lovely.
    80G 4ft Planted tank, pressurized CO2, 3bps, 288 watts HOFL, ADA Aquasoil, Powersand. Also 5 other small tanks 10-30g all non-co2 and low lights. Wife Acceptance Factor: Very bad

  20. #20
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    Thanks for the tips skyfish
    Eugene (^_^)
    De Dwergcichlide Fanatiek
    Now swimming: Plecos and Apistogrammas

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