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Thread: External Overflow System EOS

  1. #1
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    Smile External Overflow System EOS

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    Has anyone successfully created a planted tank using a EOS system. I understand that the overflow will cause excessive C02 loss. Any way of minimising the loss or way to overcome it?

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    It is highly possible to have a planted tank using an IOS (Internal Over Flow ) or an EOS ( External Over Flow ). You have to have to introduced co2 either in the tank ( using diffuser but may be unsightly and an eye sore ) or to have an external co2 reactor ( connected to the outlet of the canister filter ) whereby the water coming into the tank is already premixed with co2 and hence no bubble at all coming out of the outlet tube into the tank. I've seldom seen this type of tank being used as the overflow compartment might be unsightly to be seen.

    But if you already have such a tank in your hand, it is still usable don't worry. Just that you shouldn't be stingy on the co2 and place the outlet tube at the opposite end of the over flow compartment so that the co2 rich water coming into the tank will have time to be used by the plants.

    Hope this helps!
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
    Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BFG View Post
    It is highly possible to have a planted tank using an IOS (Internal Over Flow ) or an EOS ( External Over Flow ). You have to have to introduced co2 either in the tank ( using diffuser but may be unsightly and an eye sore ) or to have an external co2 reactor ( connected to the outlet of the canister filter ) whereby the water coming into the tank is already premixed with co2 and hence no bubble at all coming out of the outlet tube into the tank. I've seldom seen this type of tank being used as the overflow compartment might be unsightly to be seen.

    But if you already have such a tank in your hand, it is still usable don't worry. Just that you shouldn't be stingy on the co2 and place the outlet tube at the opposite end of the over flow compartment so that the co2 rich water coming into the tank will have time to be used by the plants.

    Hope this helps!
    I have a sump tank system shown below. So do i connect the reactor
    i) before the pump or
    2)after the pump and before it get directed to the tank

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    It's good that you posted your sump setup. Now I have some idea on how to introduce co2 into the main tank.

    1) Cheapest and easiest. Your co2 tube should be placed at the opening of the return pump. The pump will suck in the co2 bubble, chopping up the bubble into finer bubble mists. Some of the fine mist might be absorbed into the water column while the others will stay in it's bubble form and travel into the main tank.

    2) Costlier and harder. You'll need to use back the original hose adapter of the return pump. Get a hose that would fit that and connect it to the external reactor. From the external reactor, you will need to attach another length of hose and you'll need another hose adapter to be attached to the return pipe in order to fit the hose from the output of the co2 reactor. You'll need to plan properly on the location for the external co2 reactor. No bubbles would be introduced into the main tank.

    3) Another idea. The output of the pvc tube that is located in the main tank could be modified slightly to include a hose adapter. From there, you could add a length of hose and connect it to an external co2 reactor. The output of the co2 reactor would be placed in the main tank.

    Hope some of this idea would help you.
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
    Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
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    What kind of reactor do you suggest and how much will it cost? tks

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    Quote Originally Posted by BFG View Post
    1) Cheapest and easiest. Your co2 tube should be placed at the opening of the return pump. The pump will suck in the co2 bubble, chopping up the bubble into finer bubble mists. Some of the fine mist might be absorbed into the water column while the others will stay in it's bubble form and travel into the main tank.
    Will that not damage the pump over time? just asking because I initially did your third point because I thought point 1 may damage the pump.

    Christophe
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    Hi waterone,

    I see that you're using a plastic bag tied over the inlet pipe to reduce the splashing, what I did was to extend the pipe so that it extend below the water level in the sump.

    I am using a powerhead to drive a 3-ball green reactor inside the last chamber of my sump tank. Still it's not that effective. Personally, I feel it would be more effective to just use a diffuser in the main tank.
    - eric

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    AquaObsession, this method would work IF the bubbles amount are not big/huge enough. You could get away with 1 bubble per 2 second or even per second. Anything higher and the impeller mechanism might vibrate causing wear on the rubber grommet and in the end the ceramic shaft might broke. You'll have to gauge your pump by listening or feeling if the pump create more vibration while you're trying this method. It is not as good as using a reactor as some co2 bubbles might reach the main tank and are wasted as it escape to the surface of the water. A co2 reactor would not have any bubbles escaping from it, ensuring a 100% of co2 reaching the main tank.

    WaterOne, there is a good model which is being sold by Mr Chan of Nature Aquarium. His is a diy version which is ready made and it works really well. Cost less than a blue note. If funds are a bit tight and you would rather diy one, you can always diy the same thing but with pvc pipes.
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
    Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
    Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.

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    just wondering if we put a reactor (internal or external ) in the sump tank, will it be as effective as putting it in the main tank itself. The reactor will be connected to another pump to drive it in either case.
    Last edited by AquaObsession; 14th Oct 2006 at 21:49.
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    I guess the main thing I want to avoid is for the pump to take in air. Have a feeling it is bad for the pump in the long run (I may be wrong)

    That's why I use a reactor to dissolve the co2.

    I actually toyed with the idea of drilling a hole in the return pipe (after the pump) and injecting co2 via the hole, but I never got round to doing it.
    - eric

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    AquaObsession, you can do that too and direct the output at the opening of the return pump. But you'll need to purchase an additional pump plus the co2 reactor.

    Bossteck, maybe tee off to the reactor and then back again into the return pipe somewhere higher than the 1st tee off section. You'll need 3 ball valve, 1 located above the 1st tee-off and the 2 at each of the tee-off section, just to facilitate removing the external co2 reactor for maintenance.
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
    Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
    Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bossteck View Post
    Hi waterone,
    hi boss teck

    I see that you're using a plastic bag tied over the inlet pipe to reduce the splashing, what I did was to extend the pipe so that it extend below the water level in the sump.

    That is a customised cover to prevent the splahing. Also shouldnt the pipe be above the water level and on some filter to collect any waste?

    I am using a powerhead to drive a 3-ball green reactor inside the last chamber of my sump tank. Still it's not that effective. Personally, I feel it would be more effective to just use a diffuser in the main tank.
    Do you have a pic to show your setup? tks

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    As requested.



    - eric

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    Hi bossteck, soory to side track. Just a question based on your sump picture. Aren't bioballs supposed to be used in trickler or wet/dry filter? If they are submerged in water, how are they going to function?

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    Hi bossteck,
    What kind of reactor are you using? and what is your C02 feeding rate?
    tks

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    Quote Originally Posted by wks View Post
    Hi bossteck, soory to side track. Just a question based on your sump picture. Aren't bioballs supposed to be used in trickler or wet/dry filter? If they are submerged in water, how are they going to function?
    Nicely pointed out! This was my first sump tank, so silly me, I went to get bio balls, in the end, I decided to just leave them in the sump to act as a sort of a pre-filter, to break down larger sized waste (there aren't any large fishes in my tank, but since I already paid for the bio balls... ). Anyway, I have ceramic rings, jap mat and biohome in my second chamber, so they should provide for enough living spaces for bacteria.

    Quote Originally Posted by waterone View Post
    Hi bossteck,
    What kind of reactor are you using? and what is your C02 feeding rate?
    tks
    Hi waterone, I am using the normal green color, 3 bio-ball, plastic reactor, it is powered by a small powerhead, both the solenoid for my co2 canister and the powerhead is hooked up to the same timer (together with the lights as well). My co2 rate is 4 bubbles per second, yet, according to the test kit i am using (Sera brand) co2 level is not enough, which is why I mentioned that a more effective way is to have the reactor or a diffuser placed inside the main tank. Anyway, my main tank size is 5x2x2.5, with this much water, you really need very still water with high level of co2 injection before your level is 'enough', so I sort of gave up trying to achieve the prescribed co2 levels. But the plants that I am keep (all crypts) are doing fine.

    I gathered there're 2 schools of thought when it comes to co2, one prefers it to be completely dissolved in the water, another prefers to see tiny bubbles being 'misted' onto the leaves. I guess for tank with EOS, it would be easier to acheive the latter. If you're handy and not as lazy as myself, probably can get a few pvc pipes, drill a small hole to insert a hose adapter and fashion a rain bar, that way you can feed co2 via the rain bar using the misting technique.

    But I am one of those who prefers to see as little equipment in the tank as possible, which is why I decided to place the reactor in the sump tank.

    If the EOS is a problem for you, why not just seal it off and get 1 or 2 canister filters to do the filteration work for your tank?
    - eric

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    Dear Waterone,

    Saw the 1st photo of the sump you posted.
    What is those white thing floating in the 1st compartment ( above the blue mat ).

    I have a similar tank size like yours ( 5ft X 2ft(d)X2.5ft(h)) with sump arrangement I want to convert to planted tank.
    What is the water flow rate that you are applying to the tank.
    Thinking of using 4X54W HO T5 lights.
    Any experience to share?

    Cheers!

    BT Lee
    Last edited by BT Lee; 18th Oct 2006 at 14:42.

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    Those are bacteria house or media for bacteria growth.
    I have been thinking of it for the last few weeks. Still undecided cos it is going to be monstrous project. Can't afford to get it wrong or else it will be nightmare going to undo particularly for a deep tank .......... maybe you try first and share your experience with me ...hehe

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    Hahaha,
    ".......... maybe you try first and share your experience with me ...hehe"
    That was what I was thinking when I read the begining of the sentence.
    I have got the tank with me for more than a year now ( running but no fish! ) and yet I am serching high and low for equipments.
    Anyway, I though your tank is up and running already.
    Since we are on the same boat please share with me your finding and plan.
    #1 - to get light - I am now narrowing down to DeLight just waiting to see the look in full.
    #2 - co2 - this is easy lah.

    Cheers!

    BT Lee

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