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Thread: Crypts without CO2

  1. #1
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    Crypts without CO2

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    Hi AQ,

    I have just aquired a 2x1.5x1.5 ft tank and was planning to have a non-CO2 concept running in there. Was planning to keep Crypts primarily and wonder if they will do well in a non-CO2 environment. I have some questions as this is my first try at non-CO2...

    1. Also, how much lighting would be required? (32 Gal) My guess is 1x 55w enough?
    2. Since its low-medium lighting, means that I have space to actually use those overhead filters? Is it advisable?
    3. Read also in the Tom Barr post that soil is discouraged... does that include ADA AS?
    (Seems that Onyx Sand is unavailable in the market at the moment...)

    Thanks,
    Jason
    "Live simply, simply live."
    4ft Tank: 4 Altums, 2 Bristle Noses, 2 Panda Garras
    2ft Tank 1: 1 Tetraodon Baileyi
    2ft Tank 2: 1 Monotrete Abei
    2ft Tank 3: 1 Tetraodon Cochinchinensis

  2. #2
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    1) 55w is enough. You can also get some anubias into those darker areas.
    2) Use a HOB filter rather than those hanging on top. Just remember to keep the water level high to prevent loads of splashing. (Non-CO2 doesn't mean no CO2...just ambient CO2. Less light means less uptake of CO2..sort of a balancing act.)
    3) ADA aquasoil is fine. Just make sure that you plant very very heavily. More plants means less algae due to less chance of NH4 causing problems.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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    crypts without co2 and your level of lighting is ok. Just that I would go for as few and small water changes as possible. and absolutely NO additional fertilisation (you can use some base fert but it's not necessary). The plants will also take more time to settle down before they start growing, even up to a year. It's not for the impatient.

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    Hi,

    Agree with Budak.
    Don't dose any liquid fert. Crypts are heavy root feeders, you might want to add some root tabs after about 3-4 months.
    And yes... you will need alot of patience!
    - eric

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    Thanks Gentlemen,

    Will take note of all that.

    So I suppose that 55w for lighting is the max to go? I have a spare 2x36 from NA that is currently not used. Can I use that? Calculation is 2.2w/Gal.

    2 x 1.5 is a really big footprint and probably will have probs filling out all the surface. So will get more DW to tie with Moss. By theory the low lighting and co2 will inhibit ugly algae growth on the DW right?

    Other than moss on wood, is there any other suggestion for foregound low light?

    One more thing, why is the HOB filter prefered over those on top of the tank?

    Thanks once again....

    Cheers,
    Jason
    "Live simply, simply live."
    4ft Tank: 4 Altums, 2 Bristle Noses, 2 Panda Garras
    2ft Tank 1: 1 Tetraodon Baileyi
    2ft Tank 2: 1 Monotrete Abei
    2ft Tank 3: 1 Tetraodon Cochinchinensis

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    Nope, 72W is overkill already. I've asked the same question before

    If you are going "low Co2" then might as well don't inject any CO2 at all. There are only 2 worlds: CO2 injected and no CO2 injected, never "in between" if you get what I mean.

    Foreground low light... someone suggested Marselia sp. but it's difficult to find I think. If you are a extremely patient man and the tank will be there for years un-rescaped then try Cryptocoryne parva. Otherwise hairgrass can do too.

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    Hi,

    Regarding filter.
    Although you have no co2 injection, there will still be co2 in your tank, from your fishes and plants.

    You should preventing further loss of it in your tank by minimising the amount of splashing. Hence hang on back filter is suggested because it is more or less enclosed, be sure to extend the outlet of the filter to below the water surface of your tank. It would be better if you can get one of those tiny cannister filters. C. parva is extremely slow growing, and in my experience prone to algae if the level of light provide is too low (but this could be just failure on my part) others who have success with it can share their views?
    - eric

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