Reply With QuoteNo it will not be in my opinion. Make use of a rainbar.
Hi
I'm intending to get 1/10 arctica chiller which require a 900l/h flowrate. will it be an over kill??
No it will not be in my opinion. Make use of a rainbar.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
That's way too high. A 2 ft tank is around 100l only. At 9 times the tank volume, even with a chiller inline, you're going to have a whirlpool in your tank.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
Yippie!! Reptiles and Fishies!
haha.. i'm running 1020l/h.. i tend to say no
Somehow I am using a 960l/h filter, connected to a fluidized bed filter, a chiller and then an external CO2 reactor and the water then return to the 2ft tank via a rain barat the back corner behind some rocks. The current through the tank is quite gentle and my plants barely move. The fishes also do not show any need to fight against any current flow.
I'm using a 1200l/h canister filter for my 2 ft tank, no problem..
I am running an Ehiem 2028 & chiller on my 2ft tank with no problems; however need to consider suitable occupants
I am using a 2026 for my 2ft too... No chiller, only lotsa filter media, internal CO2 reactor and rain bar... Tetra loves the current... Stays in front of the rainbar output all the time...
It also depends on the hardscape layout... If there is a big piece of DW sitting in front of the output and lotsa plants in the tank, no whirlpool will be created...
The design of the outlet piping plays an important part in determining the output current flow. In terms of circulation, most articles are suggesting around 5 times the total volume per hour.
Cheers,
U.K.Lau
I'm using 1000l/hr but there is a flow valve that can be adjust.
Sounds like a washing machine to me.
I have a 2028->chiller-> co2reactor-> 2FTtank.
In the begining, open full blast, the fish tank was like washing machine, turn the valve to half just nice.
From time to time,clog in the tube/chiller/reactor and filter itself accumulated will slowing down water flow , then have to adjust the valve wider.
The valve is a good thing to have.. It gives flexibility in the flow rate... Having over filtration is always better then under filtration...
But remember that we always read not to impede the inflow as it will spoil the impeller, blah blah blah? But the design of the valves in the 2026/2028 is impeding both the inflow and outflow... Don't you guys find it contradictory to what we know? Just a thought...
rainbar is in the water? Not above, right?
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
Don't forget, he needs to maintain 900l/hr for the chiller. So valves or no valves, he has to make sure he keeps the flow for the chiller.
I've repeated this many times... Eheim webpage does advice adjusting the filter output valve to control flow. But never adjust the input valve to control flow.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
2 ft tank can be easily chilled using TMP or fans.. 900L/Hr is a bit overkilling and many fishes may not like the water current..
I'm using a 1200l/hr canister for my tank but just use a rainbar to reduce the current... I face the rainbar against the side of the tank to further reduce the output & even the moss is not swaying...
I'm using a 2000l/h dry pump at my 2026 outlet (Canister not running) to my CO2 reactor to my Chiller. My tank's 4Ft. No whirlpool at full blast...
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks