Algae Problem! Need Help!

[Desmond]

Hi people,

I need some help here. There's some algae on my driftwood which i need help in ID-ing it.



I have removed the dw to bleach it but i am not sure whether it is the right method? hope to hear some comments And on top of that i had to remove the moss i had so painstakingly tied to it.

Next, I am not sure what algae is this, but i have removed it together with some moss and dw.



Finally the last problem of BBA growing on my lapis gravel. What are the causes for this? Is it due to low level of CO2? I was using a pressurized system with a bubble rate of 1 per 4 seconds, but I have since increased it to 1 bubble per second. I did not test my nitrate levels but the rest of my plants are growing healthily. My photo period is 10 hrs with 3 X 55W T5 Lights and 2 X 36W FL. Is this BBA growth due to the algae in the first picture? Once again. Thanks people!




Regards,
Desmond

[Sleepy_lancs]

First picture isn't showing bba. I think it is called BGA. Usually due to new tanks or still or little water circulation in the area. Usually it will clear up rather quickly if its a new tank. Else, introduce some otos will clear it overnight.

BBA usually is caused by unstable CO2. Over in this forum, most people use the PH/KH relationship rather than BPS method to determine the amount of CO2. Most aim to have at between 25 - 30 ppm of CO2 in high tech tanks.

[StanChung]

I think i see 2 types of algae. BGA and some green version of BBA-GBA? [can't remember name]

[Desmond]

Sorry, realized that the last picture was wrong! My otos don't seem the be feeding on the BGA. I will try to get a kit to measure the amount of CO2 in it. Thanks!

[Sleepy_lancs]

Try a little yamotoes . Remember its more about a stable CO2 during the lighting hours for BBA.

[ronald_t80]

First picture isn't showing bba. I think it is called BGA. Usually due to new tanks or still or little water circulation in the area. Usually it will clear up rather quickly if its a new tank. Else, introduce some otos will clear it overnight.

BBA usually is caused by unstable CO2. Over in this forum, most people use the PH/KH relationship rather than BPS method to determine the amount of CO2. Most aim to have at between 25 - 30 ppm of CO2 in high tech tanks.

Hi Sleepy_lancs. can you briefly explain to us how to calculate e amount of CO2 using the ph/kh method? thanks!

[Sleepy_lancs]

Hi Ronald,

You can read the article at http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Basically in that webpage, you get a little calculator to assist you.
I strongly recommend you download the windows version of the calculator so that you may use the same calculator to get your NO3, K, P04 and etc dosage. Hope this helps.

[Desmond]

Hi Ronald,

You can read the article at http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Basically in that webpage, you get a little calculator to assist you.
I strongly recommend you download the windows version of the calculator so that you may use the same calculator to get your NO3, K, P04 and etc dosage. Hope this helps.

Though the answer wasn't meant for me, but still Thanks!!! I find it useful!

Desmond

[lowell]

Hi,i think the algae your talking about on your substrate is cladophora.They're a level higher than algae,it's like a weed in your garden,they grow side by side with your plants.so i would recommend that you treat it separately or try pulling it out of your tank.there are some fertilizers available in the market that helps reduce clado,one is Flourish Excel.

hope this helps.

[grey_fox]

1st photo - GBA = green beard algae.

Normally due to poor CO2 distribution. From what I see, the best way is to take out that driftwood and manually scrape all of the algae off.


2nd photo - BGA = blue green algae a.k.a cynobacteria.

This form of "algae", you can never remove manually, it will break off into pieces if you try to scoop it up. SAEs, yamatos, etc will not eat that, you can either use Erythromycin or the blackout method. Take note that Erythromycin can affect your benifical bacteria.

BGA is normally evident to low nitrate levels in the tank or poor flow in the tank. If you do decide to go with the blackout method, do the following.

1. Do a manual clean up of your tank and siphon as much BGA you can.
2. Clean your filters.
3. Drop an airstone in the tank
4. Cover up your tank entirely (make sure you don't peek or any form of lighting is made available to the tank)
5. Leave the tank the way it is, covered up for 3 days.
6. After day 3, do a 50% water change and clean filters.
7. Keep your NO3 up to at least 30ppm.

3rd photo = looks like a mini cladophora ball or black beard algae ball.

Manually pick those up and ensure your CO2 distribution is maintained at 30ppm.

GBA & BBA is easier to handle and requires you to keep the CO2 levels maintained, getting rid of the BGA is what you must do quickly.