CO2 splitter

[bossteck]

Getting kind of desperate... hope some kind soul could help.

I got a co2 brass splitter couple of days back. Fixed it myself as I didn't bring along my co2 cannister when I made the purchase.

As advised by the boss from NA, I wound 4-5 round of 'white tape' around the splitter before connecting it to my regulator.

I also got 2 brass bubble counters, 1 from NA, another from Colorful as NA ran out of stock.

Here lies the problem:

Observation:

Based on the bubbles per second in each of the brass bubble counter, I found that I have to turn the needle valve control (is that what's it called?) on one side of the splitter more than the other to achieve the same bps as the other side, as indicated by the bubble counters. Something like, for the left side of the 2-way splitter, I need to turn the controls 2 rounds, and for the right side, 1/4 of a round, for both bubble counters to have 1 bps.

I topped up my cannister on Sunday, it read 1100psi, today, it is 600, well now it is 550.

Usuage is 1 bps for each side of the splitter for 8 hours (so far only 2 days).

Question:

1. Is there anything on the splitter that I need to tighten?
2. How many parts of soup to water should I mix to do the soapy water test?
3. When my solenoid is turned off, and the bubbling stops in the bubble counters, should the pressure in the main guage continue to fall tomorrow morning, does it mean that the regulator is leaking and my solenoid has no problem?

Will update reading on main guage tomorrow. Meanwhile, hope someone can reply my questions.

Thanks for reading.

[bossteck]

This morning, I woke up to find the reading on the main guage at 400 PSI.
I had shut off the main guage before I left for work. Will update tonight.

Meanwhile... anyone? Is it normal for the 2 valve of the splitter to be this much different?

[yappeyap]

You mentioned that you’ve got the white tape onto the splitter & regulator. Maybe you can check the following:

· Got the white tape on the screw thread on the brass bubble counter to the splitter?
· There should be "O ring" in the brass/glass bubble counter, check the condition & whether was it tighten?
· Check the top of the bubble counter, where you insert you C02 tubings, for any cracks in the tubes & also re-tighten the nut

The output rate of bubbles on both side of the splitter will be different, mine is similar to yours.
For the soapy water test is actually to create a lot bubbles (need not worry about the mixture proportion), gently scoop the bubbles up and lay it over the entire splitter and if there’s any gas leak you should be able to tell immediately.

Hope it helps1

[bossteck]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. (Hope more advice will come along).

No, there weren't any white tape at the screw thread on the brass bubble counter to the splitter, I will add it this evening when I get home, silly me, how could I forget that?!

I do have the o-ring you mentioned and both of them (for each bubble counter) looked fine.

Here's a stupid question:
Should I remove it and place it between the bubble counter and the splitter? Or should it be at the end where the air tube is connected to the bubble counter (cause there's where I found it)

I am kinda leaning towards the former, but the o-ring was found at the area where the tube is to be connected to the bubble counter which I first got it, so I decided against moving it.

Thanks again for your reply.

[David Moses Heng]

Getting kind of desperate... hope some kind soul could help.

2. How many parts of soup to water should I mix to do the soapy water Thanks for reading.

Actually you can use your own saliva if you don't mind.

That's what i do when i have to check for air leaks in the penumatic system of my system.

[yappeyap]

Guess best is to leave the O ring in the position where it’s initial sold to you and also white tape all the portion that has any screw thread, that would help to reduce any leaks if any!

Btw is there 2 O-rings or 1 in the bubble counter?


Cheers!
Alex

[bossteck]

Hi Alex,

There is only 1 o-ring for each bubble counter. Sorry for the confusion.

I am still quite confuse on how the splitter works, under normal circumstance, one would expect that the number of turns on the valve should be the same for left and right side, but it isn't the case for your splitter as well, what could be the reason for this?

I have never had problems with my co2 cannister before and my previous co2 top up lasted me for close to 6 months each time, I was using just 1 needle valve connected to the regulator with solenoid.

I only changed to the splitter on Sunday so I am pretty sure something is wrong with the splitter, unless I somehow screwed up while fixing the splitter.

I have a somewhat related question:

I find that, for the entire regulator to stand in a horizontal position, it really isn't screwed in tight enough. When I screw it in tightly, it is sort of slanted at 30 degress, is there any way to rectify this?

And Altum-Lover, yeah, I used my saliva as well hiaks!

Sigh, I will have to go to Bioplast to get it filled again, probably I will ask the guy there to check it out for me. Meanwhile, appreciate if anyone can share some advice on what I should do.

[David Moses Heng]

Hi Alex,


:

I find that, for the entire regulator to stand in a horizontal position, it really isn't screwed in tight enough. When I screw it in tightly, it is sort of slanted at 30 degress, is there any way to rectify this?

.

I don't like what i am seeing here... Maybe you spolit the thread while installling it. Dismantle the entire assembly and check the condition of the threads. Good luck!!

[yappeyap]

For the unbalance output, think the only explanation I could think of may be result to the unequal pressure, see if one side of the tubes is longer then the other or the back pressure on one of the either is higher, does it affect rate of Co2 output from regulator!

Just imagine haaaa…2 nostrils, partially cover one side and try breathing out, the side that is partially cover (back pressure) will feel less air coming out…. (Don’t blow to hard )

For mine one side is directly to a diffuser and the other to a reactor…guess the ones on the reactor will higher back pressure.

Why the regulator slanted at 30 degree, will it be because while you rotate it into the “female” holes screw thread you accidentally twist one side. If so these will also causes leakage. Need to ensure the white tape you use is not covering too much of the make screw thread, else it will loss its ability to “bite” into the “female” screw thread.

I remember when I fit my splitter to the regulator I only need about 1~2 round of the white tape as the thread & holes of the splitter and regulator has very small clearance. As compare to thread on the regulator to the tank, that you need around 3~5 rounds of white tape.

Never mind the screw ups, every one screw up before!


Cheers
Alex

[bryan]

Question:

2. How many parts of soup to water should I mix to do the soapy water test?

Spray windex or window cleaner on the joints, it should bubble if there is a leak

3. When my solenoid is turned off, and the bubbling stops in the bubble counters, should the pressure in the main guage continue to fall tomorrow morning, does it mean that the regulator is leaking and my solenoid has no problem?

No, main guage pressure should not drop.

[bossteck]

Thanks guys for the helpful tips.

I can't wait to get home and so I can have a go again at fixing the thing.
I will try the window cleaner tip as well.

[bossteck]

Hi guys,

The saga continues, not sure if this is good news or not.
This morning, before I left for work, I closed the main valve of the co2 cannister. Reading was 400 PSI.

I got home in the evening and it was 100 PSI.

What does this mean? Do I need to get a new cannister?

[vurbul]

If you turn off the main valve of the cannister and turn off the solenoid as well, there should still be pressure in the regulator. If your reading has dropped overnight, or in your case over the day, it means there is leakage at your regulator/spltter.

[yappeyap]

Hi guys,

The saga continues, not sure if this is good news or not.
This morning, before I left for work, I closed the main valve of the co2 cannister. Reading was 400 PSI.

I got home in the evening and it was 100 PSI.

What does this mean? Do I need to get a new cannister?

How was the foam test?
Did it help to indicate any leak? Worse make a trip to Biplast get Mr Tan to do a check on the entire system.

[bossteck]

I have had the chance to do the foam test, as when I got home, the pressure in the tank was already less than 100 PSI.

I had turned off the main valve as well as the solenoid, thus isolating the possibility of leakage in the splitter, bubble counters and air tubes. (I hope I am right in saying this)

My current conclusion is: there is a leakage in my regulator at the point that is before the solenoid and splitter, is this a valid conclusion?

Cheers!

[hii]

Sorry saw the post too late, from what you explained, I've only 2 answer.

1) the CO2 tank is leaking gas, maybe the main valve spoilt, cause you mentioned you turn off the main valve and gas still leaking.

2) the problem between regulator that connect to the CO2 tank.

I having same problem with regulator last time also, test until 3am than give up and go direct to NA in the morning and Mr. Chan did the testing and change the regulator for me.

You should screw all the part with white tape and turn on the main valve 2 round and don't turn on solenoid yet, see the pressure meter reading at the regulator. If move than 1st test clear.

Following by turn off the main valve and leave it for about 30 mins and see if the pressure meter reading drop. If same reading than congrat, you clear the 2nd test. If drop than regulator is leaking than you follow by testing with soap bubble else go direct to NA than you will learn how the boss put the regulator attach to CO2 tank into tank to check leaking (fantastic idea).

Now you can bring the tank and regulator to NA and ask the boss to check, even 100 psi gas left still can do testing.

[bossteck]

Hi all,

Really have to say a big "Thank You" to everyone who had replied to my calls for help.

Now I have a better idea on what to do.

I will bring my cannister for testing. I suspect after 4 years of use (plus don't know how many other years - as it was a second hand unit) the regulator has finally spoilt. I will get it checked out and get replacement if there's a need. Thanks guys!

[yappeyap]

I have had the chance to do the foam test, as when I got home, the pressure in the tank was already less than 100 PSI.

I had turned off the main valve as well as the solenoid, thus isolating the possibility of leakage in the splitter, bubble counters and air tubes. (I hope I am right in saying this)

My current conclusion is: there is a leakage in my regulator at the point that is before the solenoid and splitter, is this a valid conclusion?

Cheers!

This what i think, you close the main valve before you leave home pressure around 400psi but you reached home to find it drop till 100psi.

If the regulator & splitter is in a perfect condition the pressure shouldn't drop. But if there will be leaks if any of the components along the requlator and splitter would indicate a leak, and pressure)reading within on the gauge will drop.

I remember you mentioned you had a "slanted" regulator, i 'm still not comfortable with that....maybe you need to remove all the exitings white and redo it again but this time 2 rounds of the tapes and make sure will rotating the splitter on, it is alway perpendicular to the regulator.

Try see if it works!

[hii]

The gas go through 3 gate, 1st from CO2 tank to regulator, 2nd go to regulator, 3rd go through solenoid.

case 1

If you turn off the main valve and solenoid was switched off, still leaking gas than 100% is regulator problem. Cause gate 1 and 3 is closed.

case 2

If case 1 not exist, than turn on the solenoid and CO2 did go through the bubble counter to diffuser. 2nd day you notice the PSI from valve meter reading drop a lot than someway is leaking .. either 2 way spliter join, or bubble counter ... a bit hard to check.

Case 3

If case 1 and 2 didn't exist, after few day the valve meter show PSI drop a lot than must be the CO2 tank's main valve got problem. Hard to trace too unless you can hear a big leaking sound.

Good luck and learn from the experience. So next time you are the expert.