PFK Articles: Apistogramma bitaeniata - Banded dwarf cichlid

**AquaticQuotient.com** · 10th Jul 2007, 07:50

Radek Bednarczuk aims the spotlight on a beautiful dwarf cichlid, Apistogramma bitaeniata.

Dwarf cichlids of South America have been a favourite with fishkeepers for many years. Of these, species of the genus Apistogramma are particularly popular – they are uniquely coloured, exhibit interesting behaviour, and their care and breeding are reasonably easy. These fish are also small, so don’t need a large aquarium.

The Banded dwarf cichlid, Apistogramma bitaeniata Pellegrin, 1936, is very attractive both visually and on account of its interesting behaviour. This species inhabits blackwater bodies – small streams and puddles with very low mineral content. The colour of the water is reminiscent of cola or tea; the tinge is due to a high level of humic substances.

The bottom is often covered with a layer of leaves and submerged branches. In their natural habitat these fish are most often found in the upper and middle reaches of the rivers Amazon, Ucayali and Napo; they also inhabit the Amazon lowlands of Brazil in the Tefe area (E. Romer).

The males grow up to 9cm/ 31/2”, the females are a little smaller (6cm/21/2” at the most). A lofty body and a black band running its length are characteristic of these dwarfs. Their colouring is a mixture of purple, maroon, yellow, black and blue.

The head area, especially the gill covers, shimmers with blue and azure. Depending on the fish’s mood, a second band can appear on its side below the regular one. There are also many colour varieties available, including yellow, blue and red. Both the mouth and the lips of this species are relatively small.

A. bitaeniata, although spirited and pugnacious, can be kept in a suitably large community tank, which will allow for the males’ aggression to be spread among other fish. In the aquarium they spend most of their time close to the bottom.

Living conditions

The tank can be relatively shallow, about 30cm/12” in height, but its length and width are important.

It all depends also on the number of males – the more there are, the longer the tank should be. Other fish from the genus Apistogramma, as well as Corydoras catfish, make good companions, allowing for the aggression of dominant males to be spread out.

It is advisable to allocate around 50-70 l./11-15 gal. for each pair. It is best to keep these fish in groups of 10-20 individuals because, when kept in pairs, they become extremely aggressive.

For such a number of fish the tank should be as long as possible; optimal length 120-150cm/48-60”. Provide pieces of driftwood as hiding places, which will become potential spawning sites.

Dwarf cichlids look their best against a background of rich greenery, and are also very comfortable in such well-planted conditions.

Tank hygiene is very important, so remove uneaten food and dead plant material, which can increase the level of nitrogen compounds, something these cichlids do not tolerate. A neglected tank and a lack of water changes can soon cause fin and skin disease, most often fungal infections. This species does not tolerate malachite green well, so when necessary it should be replaced with another medication.

Weekly water changes of 40-60% would not be excessive in this case. For these dwarf cichlids to show their true beauty, and be ready to spawn, provide soft and slightly acidic water.

Physical and chemical water parameters are of key importance for the successful keeping and breeding of these fish. The water should be treated with peat extracts or filtered through peat.

If these conditions are not provided, the fish are not comfortable, their colours fade, and breeding becomes a problem.

Feeding

My fish, although wild-caught, have adapted relatively quickly to commercial foods. They like spirulina, as well as granulated foods with fish and marine crustaceans.

Ballast substances (chitin and cellulose), found, for instance, in spinach and Daphnia, are necessary for proper feeding; they prevent constipation and improve the assimilation of nutrients.

The fish readily take frozen foods, such as adult brineshrimp, and the aforementioned Daphnia. Bolder individuals (most often males) will catch the food just under the surface of water. Feed 2-3 times a day, always in small portions. Overfeeding and a diet too monotonous can lead to many diseases of the digestive tract, as well as an inability to breed.

Breeding

Adult males have a lyre-shaped caudal fin, which in females is always rounded. Apart from having longer fins, the males also differ from the females in that the first rays of their dorsal fins are longer, while the fins themselves are much higher and with a serrated edge.

The males’ pelvic fins are translucent, light blue or yellow-green and much elongated. In females these fins are short, usually rounded, and predominantly black.

For successful breeding, an RO filter is a necessity. Not only is this water pure, but its parameters are excellent for the breeding of dwarf cichlids. Besides temperature, pH and hardness, another factor that triggers spawning is good quality food. For that reason spawning should be preceded by heavy feeding, preferably with live foods (for instance adult brineshrimp).

Spawning can also be stimulated by a large water change, which helps to achieve copybook parameters (ie. soft and acidic water). Spawning is possible, even in a community aquarium, although it is better to move the fish to a breeding tank.

Dwarf cichlids kept in larger groups, in spacious aquaria, with no potential enemies in the form of other fish species, breed in harems (polygamous relationships).

The males establish large territories, attempting to mate with as many females as possible. Often a male will spawn with a number of females at the same time.

Monogamy

These dwarf cichlids can also form monogamous relationships, most often when there are other fish in the tank which could threaten their offspring.

A technique often used by experienced breeders is to place older males together with younger females, which results in a larger number of offspring. This technique prevents the eating of eggs and newly hatched young by the parents. Some breeders also use low wattage bulbs over the tank to make sure the eggs are not eaten, although this happens mostly when the females are young or stressed.

Water for breeding purposes should be soft and slightly acidic (GH < 1°, pH 6-6.5), with a temperature of 24-26°C/75-79°F, although some aquarists successfully spawn these fish in water that is harder and more alkaline.

Females usually spawn in small hiding places (suitably prepared coconut shells would do). Around 100 eggs are laid; after 5–6 days (depending on temperature) the young will be swimming freely.

The female will aggressively prevent the male from approaching the young. When the yolk sac has been mostly absorbed, the fry can be fed with tiny protozoans, and after a few days with newly hatched brineshrimp and Anguillula aceti (Vinegar eel) larvae.

The male defends the territory while the female takes care of the fry, leading them around the tank in search of food. Sometimes when danger threatens the parents take the young into their mouths to protect them.

In the aquarium, the male sometimes displays increased aggression towards the female, in which case he should be removed to another tank.

Keep the aquarium clean with frequent water changes, remove uneaten food, and vacuum the substrate and in good conditions the fry will grow quickly.

Complete article here...

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