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Thread: Soil for garden

  1. #1
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    Soil for garden

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    how to use soil( for garden) as substrate? was thinking of putting the soil below, then put lapis sand on top. any other way?

    must i wash the soil? or just add in the soil then lapis sand?

    Thanks in advance

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    Why not using potting soil?
    If you intent to set up a Low tech tank (no co2), you can refer to the following threads:
    http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...step-step.html

    I think in the newbie sticky threads, there is one as well (Tom Barr Non CO2 method).

    I have setup a low tech tank using pea gravel and potting soil a month ago.
    The plants are looking good. You can view it at:
    http://www.arofanatics.com/members/r...aquariumsetup/

    Have fun.

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    You do not need to wash the soil. However, it is recommended that you mix the soil with base fert for the soil to last longer. The nutrients in the soil may only last for about 6 months (also dependent on the plant uptake).

    Also, take note of the soil you are buying. Avoid buying those mixed with urea fertilizers.
    Cheers,
    U.K.Lau

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    A good alternative would be iron rich clay(those reddish type), some bros had good success with this.
    ...I love rubies too ...
    Ken

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    And if you are to go low light natural route with no CO2, soil is one of the best choise. Just dont uproot too regularly/ do it carefully not to expose much soil to the water collumn.

    It could be tricky when picking up the right soil. Safest way would be to look for some "virgin" top soil, not extra rich in humus and never contaminated. Plain lateritic soil (reddish) poor in humus is also good but tend to be quite lean, better suited to fertilized higher tech combination.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
    Why not using potting soil?
    If you intent to set up a Low tech tank (no co2), you can refer to the following threads:
    http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...step-step.html

    I think in the newbie sticky threads, there is one as well (Tom Barr Non CO2 method).

    I have setup a low tech tank using pea gravel and potting soil a month ago.
    The plants are looking good. You can view it at:
    http://www.arofanatics.com/members/r...aquariumsetup/

    Have fun.
    Hi rwalker,

    saw the pic on your low tech tank & it's very nice!!!

    Can check if 'low tech' = low maintenance? Thinking of doing up my 1st planted tank before the end of 2007, but due to work & family commitment, thinking of doing up one that is easy to maintain (both floras & faunas...).

    So what are you currently keeping (flora & fauna) in that tank of yours? Will like to hear advises if such planted tank set-ups are suitable to keeping Cherries shrimps or ultimately.... CRS...

    Thanks in advance for all advises!!!

    Regards.

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    I am sorry to get back to you late as I turned off the email notification sometime back, thus not knowing that someone has replied.

    By definition, low tech is not the same as low maintenance. Low tech means no CO2 injection and lower light intensity (2-3 wpg) setup. But if you set up a low tech tank correctly, you have less maintenance work because:

    . less pruning as plants will growth slower (even algae ), perhaps once a week
    . no water change, only top up of water (perhaps 40% water change once every 3 - 6 months)
    . dosing is optional (you can follow Tom Bar's low CO2 method to dose once a week)
    . no measurement

    I have not ruled myself out venturing into high tech setup one day but right now I am comfortable with the low tech approach


    I have glow and neon tetra, platy and yamato shrimp in my tank. They are healthy and happy.

    I would say it is possible to keep Cherry Shrimp in this kind of environment as I learn that it is as hardy as yamato. But I would recommend you to introduce them only two weeks after the tank is setup, just in case. According to the low tech setup literature, the first few days after the tank is setup is not suitable for fish as the ammonia/nitrite level is too high, plants are ok though. Slowly, the good bacterial will nitrify the ammonia/nitrite. Nitrite spike may still occasionally happens within the first 6 weeks (for me, seeing my platy and snail survive for a couple of days, tetra and shrimp are introduced after day 5). Introducing water from a previous fish tank, exposing soil under the sun for a few days before hand will help in speeding up the ammonia cycle.

    The following threads may be of your interest:
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=34851
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=33904

    Have fun!
    Last edited by rwalker; 13th Dec 2007 at 13:11.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
    I am sorry to get back to you late as I turned off the email notification sometime back, thus not knowing that someone has replied.

    By definition, low tech is not the same as low maintenance. Low tech means no CO2 injection and lower light intensity (2-3 wpg) setup. But if you set up a low tech tank correctly, you have less maintenance work because:

    . less pruning as plants will growth slower (even algae ), perhaps once a week
    . no water change, only top up of water (perhaps 40% water change once every 3 - 6 months)
    . dosing is optional (you can follow Tom Bar's low CO2 method to dose once a week)
    . no measurement

    I have not ruled myself out venturing into high tech setup one day but right now I am comfortable with the low tech approach


    I have glow and neon tetra, platy and yamato shrimp in my tank. They are healthy and happy.

    I would say it is possible to keep Cherry Shrimp in this kind of environment as I learn that it is as hardy as yamato. But I would recommend you to introduce them only two weeks after the tank is setup, just in case. According to the low tech setup literature, the first few days after the tank is setup is not suitable for fish as the ammonia/nitrite level is too high, plants are ok though. Slowly, the good bacterial will nitrify the ammonia/nitrite. Nitrite spike may still occasionally happens within the first 6 weeks (for me, seeing my platy and snail survive for a couple of days, tetra and shrimp are introduced after day 5). Introducing water from a previous fish tank, exposing soil under the sun for a few days before hand will help in speeding up the ammonia cycle.

    The following threads may be of your interest:
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=34851
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=33904

    Have fun!
    Hi rwalker, no worries about that... Really appreciate that you took the time to reply to my questions... & your reply is really very good!!! Always learnt something new from this froum here... Thanks once again!!!

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    Hi RWalker how's your low tech doing so far? Is that Valis Spiralis at the right corner and sagittarius subata in front? Thanks!
    Last edited by fishlove; 16th Dec 2007 at 12:03.

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    The tank has been running for more then 3 months and it is doing great.
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=33904

    On the right background is Vallisneria Asiatica (Corkscrew vallisneria).
    If you are refering to the older picture, the fg plant is Edchinodorus tenellus.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benkho View Post
    how to use soil( for garden) as substrate? was thinking of putting the soil below, then put lapis sand on top. any other way?

    must i wash the soil? or just add in the soil then lapis sand?

    Thanks in advance
    I have been using potting soil for all my setups. I got those cocopeat sold at Cold Storage and mixed them, as suggested earlier, with root monsters or base fertilisers such as JBL. Then top up with gravel.

    No need to wash the soil. Using cocopeat, I found it wasn't messy when I pulled out plants. Initially the debris float and easy to scoop away.
    koah fong
    Juggler's tanks

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    Thanks RWalker and Kaoh Fong,

    I wonder is there a different between base fertilizer for low and high tech? I know from the humble Lumiae said that you don't need base if you use ADA or GEX substrate.

    I am very tempted to try a 6 x 2 x 2 low tech. My idea would be to plant the tank heavily and supply CO2, then pull the plug and use the low tech for easy maintenance. Possible? To make it more interesting there is a overflow sump and some monster fish in it. That makes it even more challenging (well, maybe straying close to impossiblility). I have tried the conventional CO2 planting in the past with great success. I liked the pearling but not the maintaining part.

    FL

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    Low tech generally refers to non-CO2 injected tanks.

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    The traditional low tech uses soil as base substrate;
    Koah Fong mixes soil and base fert for his high tech tank though.

    When your tank transits from CO2 injection to none, I guess you need to reduce the light and nutrient dosing to match the lower CO2 environment. But I guess during this period your tank is vulnerable to algae attack as the plants are busy adjusting to low CO2 environment and algae may out-compete them. My 2 cents, as I did not try that before.


    Do a search in this forum or others. I think someone has documented his experience on switching from high tech to low tech before.

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    I have heard of some MH with a dimmer. That worth a look...hm. The reason for low tech is low maintenace. Too busy paying the bills in this little red dot....

    Oh, I am going for 90% Difformis for its hardiness. Hell they were easy to plant when i took this planted tank hobby several lifetime ago.

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