Alternative chiller

[setiardi]

I can't help but start this topic after reading narkosis post. Found out this product which use water to cool CPU.


Above is the whole set-up.The specs are :

1) innovaFlatFlow waterblock for Socket 462 (A) or Socket 370
2) one Maxxxpert 120mm radiator with 120mm fan
3) one 120mm fan
4) one 120mm fan guard
5) One Eheim 1046 water pump 5 l/min (79 gal/hr)
6) One aluminum filling tank
7) 10 ft of 8mm (5/16") ID x 10mm (3/8") OD PVC tubing
one 3-to-4 pin Molex power adaptor
9) fittings and accessories (do not overtighten brass fitting

Fan Specs:
1) Manufacturer: YS Tech
2) Fan Speed: 2200RPM
3) Airflow: 92CFM
4) Noise: 39 dB
5) Power: 3.48W

Radiator Specs :
1) 5 3/4" x 4" x 4 3/4"
2) 10mm copper tubing for maximum water cooling.
3) Highest Quality fittings that make it virtually leak-proof.

Maybe if we can use the radiator and pump unit with water block only.



I think the radiator (S$80) will rust if use the salwater coz it is made of copper.

Another idea could use those small fridge bar. Drill inlet outlet holes then use flowrate to determine temperature to cool. I think will try to play around with this idea if I go into reef setup again

[setiardi]

I can't help but start this topic after reading narkosis post. Found out this product which use water to cool CPU.


Above is the whole set-up.The specs are :

1) innovaFlatFlow waterblock for Socket 462 (A) or Socket 370
2) one Maxxxpert 120mm radiator with 120mm fan
3) one 120mm fan
4) one 120mm fan guard
5) One Eheim 1046 water pump 5 l/min (79 gal/hr)
6) One aluminum filling tank
7) 10 ft of 8mm (5/16") ID x 10mm (3/8") OD PVC tubing
one 3-to-4 pin Molex power adaptor
9) fittings and accessories (do not overtighten brass fitting

Fan Specs:
1) Manufacturer: YS Tech
2) Fan Speed: 2200RPM
3) Airflow: 92CFM
4) Noise: 39 dB
5) Power: 3.48W

Radiator Specs :
1) 5 3/4" x 4" x 4 3/4"
2) 10mm copper tubing for maximum water cooling.
3) Highest Quality fittings that make it virtually leak-proof.

Maybe if we can use the radiator and pump unit with water block only.



I think the radiator (S$80) will rust if use the salwater coz it is made of copper.

Another idea could use those small fridge bar. Drill inlet outlet holes then use flowrate to determine temperature to cool. I think will try to play around with this idea if I go into reef setup again

[setiardi]

I can't help but start this topic after reading narkosis post. Found out this product which use water to cool CPU.


Above is the whole set-up.The specs are :

1) innovaFlatFlow waterblock for Socket 462 (A) or Socket 370
2) one Maxxxpert 120mm radiator with 120mm fan
3) one 120mm fan
4) one 120mm fan guard
5) One Eheim 1046 water pump 5 l/min (79 gal/hr)
6) One aluminum filling tank
7) 10 ft of 8mm (5/16") ID x 10mm (3/8") OD PVC tubing
one 3-to-4 pin Molex power adaptor
9) fittings and accessories (do not overtighten brass fitting

Fan Specs:
1) Manufacturer: YS Tech
2) Fan Speed: 2200RPM
3) Airflow: 92CFM
4) Noise: 39 dB
5) Power: 3.48W

Radiator Specs :
1) 5 3/4" x 4" x 4 3/4"
2) 10mm copper tubing for maximum water cooling.
3) Highest Quality fittings that make it virtually leak-proof.

Maybe if we can use the radiator and pump unit with water block only.



I think the radiator (S$80) will rust if use the salwater coz it is made of copper.

Another idea could use those small fridge bar. Drill inlet outlet holes then use flowrate to determine temperature to cool. I think will try to play around with this idea if I go into reef setup again

[setiardi]

I can't help but start this topic after reading narkosis post. Found out this product which use water to cool CPU.


Above is the whole set-up.The specs are :

1) innovaFlatFlow waterblock for Socket 462 (A) or Socket 370
2) one Maxxxpert 120mm radiator with 120mm fan
3) one 120mm fan
4) one 120mm fan guard
5) One Eheim 1046 water pump 5 l/min (79 gal/hr)
6) One aluminum filling tank
7) 10 ft of 8mm (5/16") ID x 10mm (3/8") OD PVC tubing
one 3-to-4 pin Molex power adaptor
9) fittings and accessories (do not overtighten brass fitting

Fan Specs:
1) Manufacturer: YS Tech
2) Fan Speed: 2200RPM
3) Airflow: 92CFM
4) Noise: 39 dB
5) Power: 3.48W

Radiator Specs :
1) 5 3/4" x 4" x 4 3/4"
2) 10mm copper tubing for maximum water cooling.
3) Highest Quality fittings that make it virtually leak-proof.

Maybe if we can use the radiator and pump unit with water block only.



I think the radiator (S$80) will rust if use the salwater coz it is made of copper.

Another idea could use those small fridge bar. Drill inlet outlet holes then use flowrate to determine temperature to cool. I think will try to play around with this idea if I go into reef setup again

[setiardi]

Another idea could use those small fridge bar. Drill inlet outlet holes then use flowrate to determine temperature to cool.

Feature
1-door
Compact size fits anywhere
Capacity Gross 58 litres
Dimensions
Net Width 448mm, Net Height 497mm, Net Depth 459mm
Net Weight 18kg
RCP S$199(Inclusive of 3% GST)

Can even put in cabinet plus use to store frozen fish food like bloodworm.
I think will try to play around with this idea if I go into reef setup again.

[setiardi]

As for the aircon as chiller, me think to much power consume plus bulky and noisy. Have one spare aircon unit and tried blowing the cold air towards the sump. After 2 hrs whole room becomes hot and this negate the tank cooling. still have the aircon unit sitting idle in my storeroom.

[BFG]

Setiardi, where 2 find the items in pic 2?

[vinz]

Any idea about safety of copper in FW?

Alternatively, connect the system to the aluminum coils that was mentioned in another thread and use that to cool an insulated sump.

COOL... look like the DIY chiller may be in the workers.

Anyway, what is the wattage and noise level on the radiator? Anyone?

Setiardi, where did you get the info? Any URL?

[kelstorm]

copper is a no no for SW.. [:0]

[narkosis]

Setiardi,

Since you're at it, lemme give you a hint as to how to use copper coils safely in a marine tank. You could get someone to bend say, about 8 - 10 hollow copper coils with about 3-4" diameter. Then make a tall thin water-tight glass tank to place this coil inside. You'll also need a lid of some sort to close up the tank. This tank is filled with freshwater, and submerged into your marine tank's sump. The height of the tank must be more than that of your sump water level, even when there's a power failure. Then just connect your controller, sensor and compressor up to this copper coil. AC technicians can do this part.

You'll probably save about S$250 with this method. If you use epoxy-coated SS16 stainless steel instead of copper, you'll save about S$150. But this is not really significant compared to getting a titanium coil which you don't EVER have to worry about.

Also, because of the glass tank in the sump, the "chiller" will not be as efficient since the coldness has to pass through the tank glass in order to cool the sump water. BUT, it is still cheaper.