fading coloration of crs/ bds

[sifreaks]

hi guys, not too sure if this question been post before, but I would like to seek advise/ expertise from pros, gurus and fellow comrades in regards of the loss/ fading of the crs/ bds coloration be it the whiteness or redness/ blackness. been experiencing this problem on some of my beloved crs/ bds.

understand that some of the reason is mainly due to genes, water quality etc.

then again, is there any possibillities/ remedy to this problem?

would appreciate any advise and inputs from any kind soul. thanx.

[Jimmy]

How to make a CRS with better color?

This question is often hear in forum.
Long term external factors have great influence on CRS color beside the phenotype genes of a CRS:

• Water temperature, ideally is 23°C, this gives the best color vs other factor like growth rate. 24°C to 25°C will work as well, but 26°C and above is not so much for color.
• Light, there are 2 factors to consider, that is the invisible light and the invisible light. A light temperature like in range of 10,000k will give better coloration. And for invisible light will need those has UVB. I like to use 2 combo from Sera light tube, the 12,000K Blue Sky and Sera Terra FL tube (full spectrum daylight with 30% UV-A and 4% UV-B).
• Food, plant based food like Mosura CRS Specialty food. "Meat" based food is better for growth rate while plant based food is better for coloration.
• Water pH, keep at round 6.5 to 6.8. Lower pH will give not so nice color.
• Water GH, around 6 to 8. Use Mosura Mineral Plus to increase mineral contents and GH.
• Less water change and change lesser amount of water.
• And of course good filtration of water, use canister filter.

http://www.silaneshrimp.com/

[sifreaks]

How to make a CRS with better color?

This question is often hear in forum.

Long term external factors have great influence on CRS color beside the phenotype genes of a CRS:

• Water temperature, ideally is 23°C, this gives the best color vs other factor like growth rate. 24°C to 25°C will work as well, but 26°C and above is not so much for color.
• Light, there are 2 factors to consider, that is the invisible light and the invisible light. A light temperature like in range of 10,000k will give better coloration. And for invisible light will need those has UVB. I like to use 2 combo from Sera light tube, the 12,000K Blue Sky and Sera Terra FL tube (full spectrum daylight with 30% UV-A and 4% UV-B).
• Food, plant based food like Mosura CRS Specialty food. "Meat" based food is better for growth rate while plant based food is better for coloration.
• Water pH, keep at round 6.5 to 6.8. Lower pH will give not so nice color.
• Water GH, around 6 to 8. Use Mosura Mineral Plus to increase mineral contents and GH.
• Less water change and change lesser amount of water.
• And of course good filtration of water, use canister filter.

http://www.silaneshrimp.com/

hi bro jimmy, thanx for the inputs. i'm currently using t5 lights, 24wx 2 nos. (10000k). any idea if they do come in the combos that you're currently using? thanx once again and have a good day ahead

[Jimmy]

hi bro jimmy, thanx for the inputs. i'm currently using t5 lights, 24wx 2 nos. (10000k). any idea if they do come in the combos that you're currently using? thanx once again and have a good day ahead

don't get me wrong, I'm not the owner of that site. Silane is the one and he frequent this forum too. So maybe wait for his reply or other gurus to advise you on that.

[cheetf]

hi guys, not too sure if this question been post before, but I would like to seek advise/ expertise from pros, gurus and fellow comrades in regards of the loss/ fading of the crs/ bds coloration be it the whiteness or redness/ blackness. been experiencing this problem on some of my beloved crs/ bds.

understand that some of the reason is mainly due to genes, water quality etc.

then again, is there any possibillities/ remedy to this problem?

would appreciate any advise and inputs from any kind soul. thanx.

It would help if you could post some details of your tank.

[sifreaks]

hi bro jimmy, no worries as i saw the link that you've attached. i'm fully aware that it belongs to the guru, silane. anyway thanx for your kind assistance.

[sifreaks]

hi bro cheetf, nothing much for my tank as i've yet to test the water. thought i could get away without water testing. guess i'm dead wrong

anyway tank is quite young i guess,
Tank: about 2 months old(size of tank 50cm by 29cm by 29cm)
Temperature: set at 23-24C. .
Plants: some moss(java moss, us fissiden, mini peilia), japanese hair grass, gujing)
Inhabitants: 01 horn snail(not too sure of the actual name) about 25 crs/ bds
Lighting: T5, 24w x2(HO)
CO2: 1bps with diffuser.
Filter: 2228 hook up to chiller hc-150a
Substrate: ada, amazonia 2

hope that helps. pardon me if i miss anything. Thanx for reading

[cheetf]

At least get a ph test kit. With ADA I have got as low as 5.5 ph before in my tanks, which is way too low for CRS.

[sifreaks]

At least get a ph test kit. With ADA I have got as low as 5.5 ph before in my tanks, which is way too low for CRS.

hi, i've already got myself (sera)ph and (tetra)gh testkit. test was conducted, ph: 6.5 & gh: untraceable

any solution as to how we increase gh level gradually? will low gh affect crs/ bds coloration?

thanx.

[cheetf]

Get yourself a bottle of Mosura Mineral plus. Use it gradually, don't shock the shrimps.

[Jimmy]

Tank: about 2 months old(size of tank 50cm by 29cm by 29cm)
Filter: 2228 hook up to chiller hc-150a

off track abit, your tank is a 1.5ft one right? is the water current strong with 2228? because the flowrate for 2228 is 1050L/H. I'm setting up one and thought of just using 2224 with 700L/H flowrate, running with chiller too but thought using HC-100 or 130. Please comment. Thanks!

[sifreaks]

hi jimmy, my tank is slightly smaller from 2 feet by 10cm(2 feet is 60cm) hope you get what i'm trying to say.
just to highlight, for the pro series, be it pro 2224 or 2228, you are able to control the flowrate therefore i've no issue with that. likewise for you, if you gonna use the 2224.
as for chiller wise, it's rather subjective. i've ever came across a thread that some people are even using hc-150a(1/10hp) for a 1 footer tank(overkill?).
maybe you can consider hc-130a(1/15hp) over hc-100a(1/20hp)for your upcoming tank. but do note that the diferrence between your upcoming tank and mine is only by 5 cm. try comparing the prices between hc-150a and hc-130a first. if the pricing is not that much maybe you can consider hc-150a. reason being is that it'll take a shorter time chilling down your tank given the hp, thus lesser electricity bill
i maybe wrong.
another thing to note, maybe you should consider an external probe/ sensor which read the temperature directly from the tank, like other pros have done whom i've learnt from. this will lead to lesser kicking in of chiller and once again you may save on the utility bill.
just my 2 cents. cheers...

[sifreaks]

Get yourself a bottle of Mosura Mineral plus. Use it gradually, don't shock the shrimps.

hi bro cheetf, thanx for the suggesstion. i'm strongly suspecting that low gh is the main reason of the fading of my beloved crs/ bds coloration i've only myself to blame as failing to look into this matter during initial set up anyway i've already have in hand a bottle of Mosura Mineral plus. will fully utilise it now. thanx once again.

[Jimmy]

hi jimmy, my tank is slightly smaller from 2 feet by 10cm(2 feet is 60cm) hope you get what i'm trying to say.
just to highlight, for the pro series, be it pro 2224 or 2228, you are able to control the flowrate therefore i've no issue with that. likewise for you, if you gonna use the 2224.
as for chiller wise, it's rather subjective. i've ever came across a thread that some people are even using hc-150a(1/10hp) for a 1 footer tank(overkill?).
maybe you can consider hc-130a(1/15hp) over hc-100a(1/20hp)for your upcoming tank. but do note that the diferrence between your upcoming tank and mine is only by 5 cm. try comparing the prices between hc-150a and hc-130a first. if the pricing is not that much maybe you can consider hc-150a. reason being is that it'll take a shorter time chilling down your tank given the hp, thus lesser electricity bill
i maybe wrong.
another thing to note, maybe you should consider an external probe/ sensor which read the temperature directly from the tank, like other pros have done whom i've learnt from. this will lead to lesser kicking in of chiller and once again you may save on the utility bill.
just my 2 cents. cheers...

thanks bro! mind to PM the price of the equipments if you bought them brand new? filter and chiller, for my own reference coz going to source for them over the weekend. Let me know the location too if possible. Thanks for your info!