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Thread: dnsfpl newbie problems...

  1. #41
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    1 casualty again
    is there anything i can do/check before getting the test kits?

    thanks

  2. #42
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    its the best indication something is wrong if you fish are lifeless and colourless. do more wc

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by alechim View Post
    its the best indication something is wrong if you fish are lifeless and colourless. do more wc
    they colour are very bright, swimming here and there, "fighting", quite lively imo esp feeding time
    on wed, i just did 20% water change, will change 20% later today

    thanks

  4. #44
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    then look out for internal bacterial infection. You will not notice anything but fish just die 1 by 1. If fish still die after you check all the parameters, high chance its internal bacterial. What I usually observe is when fish are lively and colour intense, it most likely means there is nothing wrong with the water parameters. But you might want to confirm this with test kits. Quickly go get some internal bacterial medication as well, just incase.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by alechim View Post
    then look out for internal bacterial infection. You will not notice anything but fish just die 1 by 1. If fish still die after you check all the parameters, high chance its internal bacterial. What I usually observe is when fish are lively and colour intense, it most likely means there is nothing wrong with the water parameters. But you might want to confirm this with test kits. Quickly go get some internal bacterial medication as well, just incase.
    yup there is a chance of bacterial infection cause stupid me go fed them with tubiflex worm 2 weeks ago

    what parameters must i check other than ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH?

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnsfpl View Post
    yup there is a chance of bacterial infection cause stupid me go fed them with tubiflex worm 2 weeks ago

    what parameters must i check other than ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH?
    Thats about it. I do check on my KH also, reason being I was taught that KH will affect growth of plants.

  7. #47
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    the problem may not be from your worm. Neon tetra is quite susceptible to decease such as ICH. They may contract the disease when they were in the lfs. Look for behaviour such as rubbing their body against plants, fin rot, dot, etc. I am not saying your tank is infected, but it is a good idea to watch out.
    ~Loke





  8. #48
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    noted all...thanks

    will monitor closely, hope they wouldnt affect my shrimps

  9. #49
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    best of luck. neon tetra has another disease that incurable if I am not wrong.

  10. #50
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    Neon Tetra Disease if I remember correctly the name. So lame
    WaterH2O
    <Fish are Friends, not food>

  11. #51
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    just to share my experience. i am using a 2ft, a internal filter even smaller than yours. but lesser bioload compared to yours. i have 5 bettas in my tank with about a dozen of GAEs and ottos and a couple of shrimps. at first i have the same problem surface scum, many casualties. 3 months later which is today, 0 casualties, all inhabitants are very happy. near 0 surface scum without use of surface skimmer. i am now doing no WC. just top up water. i have $15 worth of java moss growing happily inside with a pot of hydrocotyle verticilata bought a month ago with DIY CO2 injection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jason6142004 View Post
    just to share my experience. i am using a 2ft, a internal filter even smaller than yours. but lesser bioload compared to yours. i have 5 bettas in my tank with about a dozen of GAEs and ottos and a couple of shrimps. at first i have the same problem surface scum, many casualties. 3 months later which is today, 0 casualties, all inhabitants are very happy. near 0 surface scum without use of surface skimmer. i am now doing no WC. just top up water. i have $15 worth of java moss growing happily inside with a pot of hydrocotyle verticilata bought a month ago with DIY CO2 injection.
    any tips? how you determine whether to change water or not?

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnsfpl View Post
    any tips? how you determine whether to change water or not?
    i only did WC when there is algae bloom or when theres ammonia spike.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason6142004 View Post
    i only did WC when there is algae bloom or when theres ammonia spike.
    ammonia spike = surface scum?

    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by dnsfpl View Post
    ammonia spike = surface scum?

    thanks

    i am not sure of their relation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jason6142004 View Post
    i am not sure of their relation.
    how do you determine if there is an ammonia spike?
    use test kit or any tell tale sign?

    thanks

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnsfpl View Post
    how do you determine if there is an ammonia spike?
    use test kit or any tell tale sign?

    thanks

    gut feel.. lol

  18. #58
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    there's no way to test ammonia levels without test kit.

    Algae does not = ammonia

    I think the bioload rule is actually one inch per US gallon = 4 litres. But very few people will obey this rule since we all like to see as many fish as possible in the tank.

    and probably it's easier to support a higher density in a bigger volume because all the parameters change more slowly.

    interestingly someone said all the tetra family is susceptible to neon tetra disease except cardinals....not sure if this is true

    Tetras are pretty fragile but under optimal conditions apparently they can live as long as 3-10 years...

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