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Thread: Dither fish that are safe for Apistogramma fries

  1. #21
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    haha. will be buying the female soon for this male..

    anyway... i acctually feel that without dithers tank abit empty.. haha..

  2. #22
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    Dithers can be rather useful at distracting the attention of the more aggressive gender (usually male) at times so that the female can slip away to safety. However, what is more important is to provide ample hiding space by means of plants, leaf litter, woods or caves.
    Last edited by genes; 3rd Apr 2008 at 20:12.
    Eugene (^_^)
    De Dwergcichlide Fanatiek
    Now swimming: Plecos and Apistogrammas

  3. #23
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    hi guys.. i removed my dithers for a few days in my ap.trifasciata tank.. my female got some splitting at the tail although i have plenty of hiding space in the 1ft cube..
    just added 8 ember tetra as dithers.. i guess they are fries-safe?
    i have to feed them frozen daphina because the NLS .5mm pellet cannot fit their mouth.. while my boraras brigrittae's mouth can fit the NLS pellets..

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionZ View Post
    i have to feed them frozen daphina because the NLS .5mm pellet cannot fit their mouth.. while my boraras brigrittae's mouth can fit the NLS pellets..
    The ember tetras in the market right now are very young/juvenile fish, they have yet to reach their potential size.

  5. #25
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    oh... i heard that ember tetras reach a max size of 2cm~?
    mine was around 1 - 1.5cm now.. kinda quite.. some orangy colour while some are colourless =)

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    Two things to note when talking about size.

    1. They could either be referring to SL (standard length), TL (total length) or FL (fork length).
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...5&postcount=22

    2. Fishbase quote 2 cm SL as the size. Note that this is probably based on the collection sample size when they are formerly described.

    Inevitably, there will be some variance in these sizes, but they should not exceed very much. The ones in my tank are about 3 cm SL, but they are still considerably one of the smaller fishes, so they should be okay for your purpose.

  7. #27
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    tetras are voracious fry gobblers. have fun netting them out when your apistos spawn

  8. #28
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    Well, so are cyprinids, including Boraras spp. Not forgetting, pencilfish or hatchetfish are tetras too.

    Again, the rule of thumb is anything that fits in the mouth is potentially food. But these can be minimised if you have a large enough tank, lots of hiding places, feeding the fishes well, and so on, you get the idea.

  9. #29
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    haha i've caught my hatchetfish attempting to fry gobble too, so for me boraras and pencilfish are the only 2 fry-safe fish that i've tried thus far. for the boraras, it's probably because firstly, they're small enough to be kept safely at bay by the protective mum and secondly, they're small enough that even newly hatched fry can't fit into their mouth. for pencilfish though, i don't see them even attempting to snatch a bite of fresh baby fish

  10. #30
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    I dont really understand the validity of this thread....
    There is no such thing as a fry-safe characin/cyprinid....not anything you can commonly buy in our market at least.

    Rule of thumb.. if it fits the mouth, its food. More so if its swims and moves around. Newly hatched fry can fit into boraras mouth....easily...

    When considering dither fish, you also have to consider how large your aquarium is...
    if you have a large aquarium, your fish are probably not going to interact as much and there is going to be more space for fish to move around for safety etc. When you have a small aquarium...e.g. a 1ft or 1.5 ft... your dithers are just going to bump into your fries a lot more... basically.. that just means free meal for your dithers.

    Whether you see them eat your fry or not, is another matter.... they are eating your fry whether you see it or not... either at a fast pace or at a measly slow pace... should they meet, they WILL EAT your fry PERIOD... just remove them.

  11. #31
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    that's your opinion i guess

    i beg to differ based on my personal experience. i guess if you really really want to, you can go explain to my boraras and pencilfish that fry are actually really nice to eat . but for now, they ignore newly born fry

  12. #32
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    So here's the verdict evolutionZ...
    Since we all don't have fishes from YX's fish tank...and only have access to the ones that still do eat fry.... i guess you should still remove them.

  13. #33
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    i've never denied that the fish he chose as dithers would eat fry anyhow, i did say his tetras are voracious fry eaters i'd like to see if he can catch any boraras eat fry should he choose to use those as dithers

  14. #34
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    Yeah.. so end of the day EvolutionZ, it is still remove them... and dont add anything else that is already mentioned unless you want to get them from YX's tank.
    Last edited by ranmasatome; 4th Apr 2008 at 00:31.

  15. #35
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    Okay, here's another point to note on general cichlid behaviour.
    The parental instincts of the fish is pretty good which sort of explains why people love to keep them.
    Seeing proud and fierce parents swmming around the tank with swarm of fry give a really high "feel good" factor to the hobbyist.
    I certainly felt good when I saw mine.

    The parents have a set of "signals" of fin flapping/opening/closing to signal the fry to do various things.
    The most obvious behavior seen is for the fry to just drop to the gravel and keep still to aviod danger while the parents "take care" of the intruder.
    And the other for the swarm to "tighten" closer and around the parents.
    In nature the dawn and dusk period of lighting goes dark and bright over a period of time.
    So when dusk is approaching the parents will realise this and have enough time to round up the herd and signal the fry to "bed down" for the night.

    In our tanks the light go on/off suddenly unless you have a dimming function that can be done over a time period.
    When that is done fry that have wondered to far will suddenly be lost as they are unable to see the parents signals.
    This is when fry loss is highest in our aquariums.
    Animal instinct is opportunistic feeding.
    If a fry wonders close to me I'll make a meal of it.
    To make matters worse the confined environment like our tanks increases the odds of a fry stumbling into a predator/larger fish during the night.

    Yes, most cichlid parents are great guardians but they cannot defend what the cannot see.
    But we can provide some help to them to even the odds.
    In our tanks, that means the follwoing points:

    a) Don't turn off the lights suddenly (btw I still haven't figured out how to do this myself ).
    b) Better yet, leave a little night light on through-out the night period.
    c) Or have enough ambient light for the parents be able to see danger and the fry to see the parents signals to them.
    celticfish
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  16. #36
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    thanks for all your comments.. guess i will remove any dithers when my apisto breed. thanks

  17. #37
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    Yup, once they breed, remove all of the dithers to play safe. I do not have dithers in my tank when the female is with free swimming fries. This way, i can ensure a higher survival rate of the fries.

    What celticfish mentioned about the night where losses are high is so true. I witnessed the lost of my boraras brigittae instead. My female A. cacatuoides was herding over 70fries in my tank. Rather impossible to keep an eye on all of them especially when they are slow moving, curious little fellas that would explore areas out of the safe zone when they grew bold. Thats where i saw my boraras brigittae pick them off the moment mother fish is chasing away other predators, or did not catch them straying away from the herd. At lights off, it was revenge time, i saw my male A. cacatuoides pick off the boraras brigittae while they are sleeping. Its a vicious cycle. The nature way of life. Eat and be eaten...
    Last edited by genes; 4th Apr 2008 at 06:58.
    Eugene (^_^)
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  18. #38
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    EvolutionZ, ask yourself what's your priority in buying this pair of apisto?
    For breeding purposes or just general appreciation of the fish and its characteristics?
    If you are really into breeding and therefore very concerned about fry casualties, forget about dithers.

    Supposed you have dithers and if your dithers are hard to catch, and hence, your eagerness in catching the dithers out, you'll run the risk of the possibility of your apistos eating up their brood.

    Else, just let nature takes it course..

    I hope you get my point.
    It's NOT "Chee lick", NOT "Chee Chee Licks"!!! Cichlids is pronounced as "Sick Lids"!!!!!

  19. #39
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    i've lost 6 marbled hatchets and 3 zebra otos to a pair of protective/vengeful parents in the last week ironic thing is that the otos were fry-safe (oh no, angry ranma, i said the taboo words again!)...i think the parents just saw another fish nearby and went to whack.

    this pair is the most protective pair of parents i've ever kept...perhaps it's the nature of wild fish to be more protective, since the danger of predation is all the more real in the wild?
    Last edited by genes; 4th Apr 2008 at 19:31. Reason: Removed irrelevant quote

  20. #40
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    parental instincts are built into the gene, doesn't matter whether it is a wild or domestic breed. Some pairs are more aggressive while others are not very experience and will eventually learn the ways of being a better parents. Ultimately, you get good or bad parents, adding dither may or may not help, at the end of the day, if you intend to breed your fishes, less distraction (no dither) will be a better choice. Add dither only increases the risk, risk of the frys getting eaten by the dither, risk of over protective parents killing the dither.

    Using dither in a big tank may not be the same as in a small tank

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