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Thread: Edwin Re-Setup 2ft Planted Tank Journal

  1. #1
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    Edwin Re-Setup 2ft Planted Tank Journal

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    Tank Dimensions (LxWxH, specify units): 600x300x360 = 15 gallons

    Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : 24w x 2
    Number and type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : FL
    Age of light bulbs : 2/12/2007
    No. of hours your lights are on : Not yet (waiting for water to settle in)

    CO2 Injection Rate (bps) : 1 bps
    Type of CO2 (DIY/Cylinder) : Cylinder
    Method of Injection (e.g. Diffusor/Reactor) : I have the reactor but it does not seems to fit to my tank.. might change to diffusor.

    Other fertilisers (Product name. E.g. Root Monster) :
    RMC- Lapis Lustre Sand (Top Layer)
    GEX Fertiliser.

    Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister, Product name/model if possible) : Canister - Jebo 385

    Fan: ANS 3000 Cooling Fan

    Age of setup (i.e. since initial setup or last major re-do ) : whole re-setup since 5th April 2008

    Water change frequency : Every week
    Amount changed : 2 inches of water

    Water surface movement (None/gentle/turbulent) : Gentle
    Circulation (None/gentle/turbulent) : Gentle

    Tank Temperature : 29 degree celcius at this moment w/o fan turn on

    5th April - Running the water now..

    Please view my photo album at:

    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=11119

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    You should cycle your tank with plant in it.
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    Hi Shadow,

    Ok.. will get some plants to cycle it soon I haven't have a theme in my mind yet.. I am actively browsing other members photos.. to get some idea.. Hope to have a theme soon...

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    Glad to see you have embark on your re-scaping keep us updated.
    WaterH2O
    <Fish are Friends, not food>

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    guys.. here are my simple latest plants layout.. courtesy of my wife.. she did the arrangement...



    and the rear view:



    notice.. this time round.. i didn't put lots of soil or sand.. keep things minimum.. i still got one BIG pack of sand and fertilisers with me..

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    The plants you have are not enough and so it not densely planted enough should get more plants.
    WaterH2O
    <Fish are Friends, not food>

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    Having at least 90% of your tank plants would in fact help you deal with algae problems, especially when the tank is new. You may also do a fishless cycling process to kick start cultivation of BB. For a moment the excess food (fishless/ ammonia) would be fert for your plants and enzymes needed to cultivate BB.

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    Bro you need somw hornwort to throw into your tank to combat algea at the initial stage can get it for me. I got a bunch from a bro here in the forum and there are a lot leftovers. Just leave them flowing and once you are done you can throw them away.
    WaterH2O
    <Fish are Friends, not food>

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    Edwin: good start but really more plants needed. Suggest you can try the easy growing E.tenellus for the foreground.

    BTW - I prefer that the stem plants not to be bunched together when planted. Helpful if you got a plant tweezer.

    For your CO2 reactor, what kind is it that you have trouble connecting to your filtration tubes?

    To quicken up the cycling, you can pour in some fish water from another tank or get some beneficial bacteria sold in bottles at LFS.

    Good luck!
    koah fong
    Juggler's tanks

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    The common mindset is when you start/buy/try something new, you either do it slowly or don't buy too much. Its a cautionary move, but this will result to issues with algae later on. I started minimiumlistic, and it took 5 months to get my tank back in shape.

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    Why do you add lapis sand on top of Gex? Honestly, it is better to plant on Gex alone or you can devide it in to 2 section. What I mean is the front is lapis sand and behind is Gex.

    you might want to take photo of your reactor so that people can advice better.

    how long did you turn on your light? you might want to keep it short since you have little plant. At least until you plant more. That should help on the algae issue. turn only 1 24W will also help
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    I using just gex soil alone, no need to add lapis sand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterH2O View Post
    Bro you need somw hornwort to throw into your tank to combat algea at the initial stage can get it for me. I got a bunch from a bro here in the forum and there are a lot leftovers. Just leave them flowing and once you are done you can throw them away.
    bro.. can i get some from you? where do i put this? tied to the wood? I am not that good at plants recognition .. looking at google to get a glimpse of this plant.

    as for lighting.. I'm turning it to 5 hrs a day rather than usual 8hrs. is that okay? I'll get more plants either this weekend or next. Meanwhile, I've put in my previous tank fishes and 4 surviving otos into the tank.. hopefully things will get better.

    as for the co2 reactor.. is okay.. i think the one that i bought is faulty. I'll go get another one..

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    Sorry Bro

    bro.. can i get some from you? where do i put this? tied to the wood? I am not that good at plants recognition .. looking at google to get a glimpse of this plant.
    The hornwort I keep too long in a plastic container already turned mushy so I threw them away. But I will be trimming my water wisteria tomorrow can give you a few stalk to put in your tank. Just stick the cutting into the substrate will do. You can collect from me tomorrow between 6.30pm to 7.30pm or else it is after 9 30pm when you can drop me a sms at 91116171. don't take too long or else the plants become mushy again I have to throw them away.
    as for lighting.. I'm turning it to 5 hrs a day rather than usual 8hrs. is that okay? I'll get more plants either this weekend or next. Meanwhile, I've put in my previous tank fishes and 4 surviving otos into the tank.. hopefully things will get better.
    5 hours a bit too short for photosynthesis to start. need at least 8 hours although some websites say between 10-12 hours. Do a 4 hours in the morning and then 4 hours at night. The break is to control algae growth.
    WaterH2O
    <Fish are Friends, not food>

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    hortwort is a fast growing plants which is why it draws alot of nutrient from the water column, mine died just after 4 days in a small tank and kill everything in it due to nitrite spikes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterH2O View Post
    5 hours a bit too short for photosynthesis to start. need at least 8 hours although some websites say between 10-12 hours. Do a 4 hours in the morning and then 4 hours at night. The break is to control algae growth.
    I think plant will start photosysnthesis as soon as there is light. There might be a set up time for the enzyme, no idea n this . Anyway, most of the time you will start seeing bubble after 1 or 2 hours of light on. Although I do read that 4 or 5 hours is where the photosynthesis is at its peak. So if you break it down it probably will impact growth rate.
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    I think plant will start photosysnthesis as soon as there is light. There might be a set up time for the enzyme, no idea n this . Anyway, most of the time you will start seeing bubble after 1 or 2 hours of light on. Although I do read that 4 or 5 hours is where the photosynthesis is at its peak. So if you break it down it probably will impact growth rate.
    Thats why i have conflicting opinions on breaking my photo period to manage algae, if it evens helps in reducing algae for that matter. The only resource as pointed out by some bros here is from a dennerle site and even that it isnt clear.

    Shadow are you able to link that resource of yours for the photo period ?

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    It takes sometime for the plants to get up and running. Siesta for plants might work due to the fact you have a CO2 issue. Your system cannot keep up with the uptake rate drops off during the day. If your CO2 system is responsive, you do not need to break up the photoperiod.

    Regards,
    Peter Gwee
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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