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Thread: Tank setup for Betta macrostoma

  1. #21
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    I believe I saw 2 pairs at a LFS yesterday... but not as red as yours... nice!

  2. #22
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    hehe, not for makan.

    As for price, it's standard pricing for them. Around the mark of $200.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jervis View Post
    I believe I saw 2 pairs at a LFS yesterday... but not as red as yours... nice!
    Thanks. Not sure if you are referring to the same LFS on my mind

    Wonder how come they are still not taken yet.
    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:32. Reason: Merge posts

  3. #23
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    nice pictures

  4. #24
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    Nice Betta ~!...=D
    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:33. Reason: Something wrong with your keyboard?

  5. #25
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    Nice Pair of Macrostoma Bro.. Is it possible for you to show a picture of the whole tank setup? By the way Magic4lifez.. They usually cost over 200 plus a pair..

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samuel2618 View Post
    Nice Pair of Macrostoma Bro.. Is it possible for you to show a picture of the whole tank setup? By the way Magic4lifez.. They usually cost over 200 plus a pair..


  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samuel2618 View Post
    Nice Pair of Macrostoma Bro.. Is it possible for you to show a picture of the whole tank setup? By the way Magic4lifez.. They usually cost over 200 plus a pair..
    Okie. This is a 15 inch cube tank. Originally I meant to house them in a 4 feet tank. But as mentioned, the pair of apistogramma in the 4 footer is too territorial, terrorising them. I am still unable to catch them out.

    Thus, will have to house them in this small 15 inch cube for the time being.

    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:34. Reason: Formatting

  8. #28
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    Very nice setup!! is that tenellus that you are using for the foreground?

  9. #29
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    The foreground are all hairgrass. Those plants sticking out from hairgrass are some cryptocoryn.
    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:34. Reason: Remove immediate quote

  10. #30
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    Do you use a chiller?

  11. #31
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    Only 2 computer fan for this 15 inch cube. I need to replenish 1 litre of water daily due to evaporation.
    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:35. Reason: Remove immediate quote

  12. #32
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    doesn't topping up increase ammonia concentration?

  13. #33
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    Does it? Come to think about it, I think I better check the NO3 level.
    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:35. Reason: Remove immediate quote

  14. #34
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    When was the last time you did water change?

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    I am doing 30% weekly water change.

    But I just did a test, and the NO3 level is 25 - 50 ppm. There's only 5 otocinclus, 2 macrostoma, and a few yamato in the tank. Look at the amount of shit the give out.

    By-the-way, I am using aged water as water top up as well as water change.

    Is there really a need to bring down my NO3 level? Is it too high?

    Anyone can advice?

    I have a nitrate filter for my other tank and the NO3 is below 10 ppm. Do I need 1 for this tank?
    Last edited by Quixotic; 14th May 2008 at 00:35. Reason: Remove immediate quote

  16. #36
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    I think when you are keeping fish, it is extremely important to understand what the nitrogen cycle is about and how the end products of each stage interacts within the ecology of your aquarium. I would suggest that this is a prerequisite for anyone intending to keep fishes.

    Any waste in the tank (uneaten food, excretion from fauna), decomposition of plant and animal matter produces ammonia. Ammonia is converted to nitrite in aquaria by nitrifying bacteria of the genus Nitrosomonas. Nitrite is then converted to nitrate by another nitrifying bacteria of the genus Nitrospira. Denitrifying bacteria can convert nitrate into Nitrogen gas, but the denitrification process can only occur under anaerobic conditions (without oxygen), which does not exist in normal aquaria setups.

    This process is known as the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia/nitrite are extremely toxic to fauna, even at low concentrations. Nitrate is dangerous at very high levels.

    So how do we remove ammonia/nitrite/nitrate?

    With ammonia/nitrite (as a "food" source) and good oxygenated water, the nitrifying bacteria will colonise everywhere in your tank, on any surface, on the gravel, on plants and especially so in your filter media (where the surface area is supposedly the highest). Therefore, having a reasonably good filter and allowing your setup to go through 4-6 weeks of recommended cycling period is important, more so if yours is not a planted tank.

    Healthy, well growing plants also removes ammonia/nitrate from the water. Nitrite supposedly can be used by plants, but there don't seem to be enough scientific literature to conclusively confirm this. Ammonia, rather than nitrate, is the preferred nitrogen source for plants. So plants will remove ammonia first and foremost if it is available. In the absence of ammonia, they will take up nitrate as their nitrogen source.

    Some de-chlorinators will also bind ammonia/nitrite/nitrate to an intermediate compound, which is safe for the fauna, while still being available to be used by the nitrifying bacteria or plants.

    Water changes will also help remove ammonia/nitrite/nitrate, but it also depends on the water changing methods. In view of chloramine (basically ammonia bonded to chlorine) in our water content, it is necessary to use a good de-chlorinators (which also binds chloramine) before adding the water. Aging the water alone does not remove chloramine. This applies too when you wash your filter and/or the filter media.

    Some equipment, like zeolites, are also capable of adsorbing (not absorb) ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and other organic compounds. Activated carbon, on the other hand, does not adsorb ammonia as well. However, bear in mind that your plants need ammonia/nitrate as their source of Nitrogen and possibly other organic compounds too.

    Conclusion? Having a reasonably good filter, with the filter media and allowing the tank to undergo the proper cycling process will help manage ammonia/nitrite levels. Since yours is a planted tank, concentrating on growing your plants well, will ensure ammonia/nitrate is being used by the plants. Plants effectively functions as a filter. Additionally, the good practice of weekly water changes will partially help remove the toxins.

    Therefore, I don't think your nitrate level will rise to the level that will endanger the fauna, unless you have been over feeding your fish too much, or your plants aren't doing too well.

  17. #37
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    Hey Quixotix, really appreciate your informative writeup.

    I only feed the fish once per night. I will keep up with the water change. Will also continue to test the water to ensure they are in a healthy level.

    The fish do looks healthy to me for now.

  18. #38
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    Very informative writeup, Quixotic. Perhaps you can put that post up as a sticky?

  19. #39
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    May i know where did you get your glass cover? i want one too.
    Does it affect the light coming in?

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlfsk View Post
    Hey guys, sorry for the delay. Here are the pictures of the macrostoma.
    nice one bro...

    Quote Originally Posted by carlfsk View Post
    I am doing 30% weekly water change.

    But I just did a test, and the NO3 level is 25 - 50 ppm. There's only 5 otocinclus, 2 macrostoma, and a few yamato in the tank. Look at the amount of shit the give out.

    By-the-way, I am using aged water as water top up as well as water change.

    Is there really a need to bring down my NO3 level? Is it too high?

    Anyone can advice?

    I have a nitrate filter for my other tank and the NO3 is below 10 ppm. Do I need 1 for this tank?
    should be alright bro...
    btw 15 inch cube is considered big la..
    Last edited by Quixotic; 16th May 2008 at 19:00. Reason: Merge posts
    lifeisfullofemptypromisesandbrokendreams
    Hypancistrus and Tanganyikan cichlids breeding

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