I noticed that my aquarium water always turn green 1-2 days after a water change. No its not the green as in an algae infestation. The water is clear but there is a slight green tinge to it, not like tap water that is clear and colorless.
What is the cause of this? Is it diatoms?
It's normal as plants will release certain substance that will give the water a yellow/green tinge while producing food via photosynthesis... if the green water really bothers you too much, you can try to change your light tubes/bulbs to cooler temperature (8000K to 10000K). That will "visually" make the tank less green/yellow... as least that's how our brains perceive colour.
I was thinking of changing my tubes to 10000k, instead of using the osram 6500k when i encountered this last month, but wasnt sure if 10000k would provide a better spectrum as compared to Osram.
They do have slightly different spectral value... the 10000K will have a slightly more blue spike... will benefit the algae as they enjoy it.Originally Posted by torque6
How about running carbon for short term to remove the staining in water? But they will come back for sure.
thanks jervis for the heads up.
GQ,
I am using carbon pad in my OHF as well, even though i have a oil film on the water surface, i no longer have green tint to my water.
Not true at all.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
no explaination ?
It's kinda complex really and the fact that plants do adapt overtime to the spectrum of light given (4000k-10000k) except actnic light debunks that. I'll suggest you focus on what grows plants well rather trying to outwit algae by all sorts of means.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
I was wondering if this is what you meant.
quote :-
different algae strive at a different rate under different lighting conditions.
algae growth is more dependent on the intensity instead. while some will strive under low intensity n some will strive under higher intensity.kelvin-different spectrum will promote different types of algae.
Algae does not require much stuff to grow but the key is to their germination. If you can stop that, you just need to trim off the old growth and they will not return. A healthy growing plant is what you should seek and that is the key. Light bulbs spectrum drifts over time as well as does the depth and colouration of the water affects the spectrum availability. Bluish light opens up the stomata (real aquatic plants have no stomata though) more from what I have read (CO2 gathering). Just stop thinking about outwitting the algae really and focus on satisfying your plant needs.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
My interest has wandered! Do U?
What Peter said is absolutely right. 4000-10000k range is ideal for plant. The intensity of the light is a key factor in the rate of plant photosynthesis and growth.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!! TIME TO LAY BACK AND RELAX!
A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step
Peter, are you absolutely certain that this statement:
10000K will have a slightly more blue spectrum (compared to 6500K)
Is absolutely not true at all?
If that's really the case, then there must be something wrong with my memory... will have to do more research.
And to further support my statement... there are some "truth" in it. It's complex (as Peter puts it) no doubt. Here's a Q&A answered by Tom Barr in 2000.
Link:
http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00003.html
Q: I was told that there is a certain type of fluorescent light that is better for plants than algae. Is there any evidence for algae requiring a different light spectrum than plants?
A: No. Many algae readily adapt to light spectral changes, probably more so
than plants. However, full-spectrum light, which usually has a fair amount of blue light, may stimulate algal growth more than light sources with less blue light (e.g. 'cool-white' fluorescent, *incandescent* light, and high pressure sodium lamps). THIS IS BECAUSE BLUE LIGHT MAKES IRON IN THE WATER MORE AVAILABLE TO THE ALGAE, THEREBY STIMULATING ITS GROWTH.
Ah... and the plants as well. They can use it as well and do. If you have lots of plants they will get it fast. We add iron that is available to the algae to our water as well in many cases for our plants. Does adding iron cause algae as well? Don't plants use it also? Depends on whether you like or prefer water column dosing or not really. And even then the amounts of fe released in a well planted tank would be utilized fast. The answer in the beginning was "No" recall.
So it's a YES & NO kinda answer. And yes, 10000K is considered more "full-spectrum" compared to 6500K.
Therefore, to put my statement in context (please read the first 4 posts in this thread). What I am suggesting to Torque6 is:
1) No, changing your tube from 6500K to 10000K will not help the situation make your tank algae-free.
2) If your tank is not in a healthy state, changing the tube will not help. And most of the time, a sudden change of light spectrum will do more harm than good in such a tank.
THIS IS BECAUSE BLUE LIGHT MAKES IRON IN THE WATER MORE AVAILABLE TO THE ALGAE, THEREBY STIMULATING ITS GROWTH.
And because of the above statement, changing the light tube from 6500K to 10000K will not help GreenAqua's situation as the blue spectrum will further worsen the green water situation.
Last edited by Jervis; 20th Jul 2008 at 15:50.
That is the old school of thought. Things changed with more knowledge gained over the years. You know to know why and how the algae germinates in order to beat it. Greenwater requires a bit of NH4 and good amount of light to trigger its outbreak. It does not care about spectrum nor intensity. A healthy growing plant with its requirements fulfilled does not make it a good substrate for algae since it is a "moving target".
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
So there's no truth to this at all?
Yes, more blue spectrum. Algae trigging? No.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
Thanks for sharing with us your valuable knowledge... I better go read more on Algae Management... especially more on recent studies. Do you have any good book or internet site to recommend?
It's kind of hard to convince hardcore ADA folks. Those bottled fertilizers that you are using is basically just KNO3 + K2SO4 and KH2PO4 in highly diluted concentration. You are paying your dough through your nose for that logo. The so called ADA system works with the substrate because those bottled nutrients are very lean and requires the substrate support. You cannot limit algae even down to the ppb range if that is what you think. Plants can and sometime do take up luxury amount of nutrients. If you want to grow plants well, focus on CO2 (40+% of plant biomass is that!) and 1.5% or so is N and lesser K+ and so on down the line.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
My interest has wandered! Do U?
What substrate would you recommend and fertilizer. Thanks!
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!! TIME TO LAY BACK AND RELAX!
A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step
It's going off topic.....Any brands would do as long as it is dosed to non-limiting concentration with respect to the amount of light given. More light, more CO2 and nutrient demand.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks