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I would say none of the above. The secret is balance diet for your plants. What I mean is do not starve you plants from N, P, K, micro and CO2. Keep the plant healthy and algae will go away
just my 2 cents
OK, I understand that to prevent algae growth in a planted tank would require:
1) Lights not to be on for more than 9 hours everyday
2) Change water regularly (ie 2 weeks)
3) Anti-algae solution.
In principle, what other things should I look out for to prevent algae growth?
Also, I'm amaze that those plants tanks in LFS. Their lights are on for more than 10 hours and I don't get to see a single algae on their glass. How did they do that?
I would say none of the above. The secret is balance diet for your plants. What I mean is do not starve you plants from N, P, K, micro and CO2. Keep the plant healthy and algae will go away
just my 2 cents
Wah... Chim... That's a very summarised version.
I assume that I must religiously put the required solutions for the plants and the algae will go away?
Actually, all I'm concerned is how I can prevent those green little spots found on my glass.
I know how to get rid of it, sponge.
How do you prevent it?
My interest has wandered! Do U?
Higher phosphate will prevent GSA(green spot algae).Originally Posted by nkthen
Wah... Chim... That's a very summarised version.
I assume that I must religiously put the required solutions for the plants and the algae will go away?
Actually, all I'm concerned is how I can prevent those green little spots found on my glass.
I know how to get rid of it, sponge.
How do you prevent it?
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!! TIME TO LAY BACK AND RELAX!
A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step
please do not ever depend on no. 3
it rarely works and even if it does is not a long term solution
and chances are it will kill some livestock
I would say none of the above. The secret is balance diet for your plants. What I mean is do not starve you plants from N, P, K, micro and CO2. Keep the plant healthy and algae will go away
just my 2 cents
its definitely not as straightforward as this,I set up my tank for more then one year ago and has been dosing base on instructions on the bottle for 6 monthe before going the way of EI. Before I go the EI way, all I ever saw was spot algae on the glass surface, but about 2 months into EI, BBA hit me and I am still recovering from it.I still think the Ei way works since so many hobbyist embraces it, just need to find the ultimum equilibrium point
some folks down here on their light for 10hrs..so (1) is not really applicable.
(3) is a NO No...
as some have mentioned here...crank up your CO2 till comfortable level for your fishes. it's mentioned that 30ppm is ideal. but i normally go higher than that.
good plant growth will also help prevent algae like BGA (which my tank recently got hit by..hope it don't come back again)
Finally, dose your NPK generously...that should be it..i think there are no fix fomula to prevent algae, you just got to play around with all these parameters.
i'm ADDicted to this wonderful hobby
OK, EI is a good method but will it work for current growth of algae?
BTW, what does NPK stand for?
N = Nitrate
P = Phospate
K = Potassium
Of course it is not straight forward solution. Even with EI does not mean that you will free of algae. You still need to tweak EI abit depending on the plants need. Fast growing plant will need more nutrient, thus you might want to increase the EI recomended dossing.
It is complex but EI is good dossing regime to start with.
For green spot algae (GSA), you can try UV. I found that GSA attack my tank only if there is direct sunlight. My room is located somehow that only around January to May it get direct sunlight in the morning. I can see that during this month I need to clean the glash once a week or once every two week. Other than this month, I can get away not to clean the glass every two months. I believe GSA isn't big of issue, other algae does though
I would say none of the above. The secret is balance diet for your plants. What I mean is do not starve you plants from N, P, K, micro and CO2. Keep the plant healthy and algae will go away
just my 2 cents, a very good reality check ! couldnt agree more.
GSA haunts me forever. I can never get rid of it. Been using EI method, & have dosed extra P the GSA is still growing. + it invites additional BBA after extra dose of P.
did you put your tank somehow close to window? or does it get sunlight in the morning or afternoon?
That what happen to me, so I bought thick curtain to block it
My tank is at least 3m away from the window.
After reading all the posts in AQ, I think I will do the following (mine's a 3ft tank) to remove GSA and Green Hair Algae:
1) Get otos for GSA (Currently has 8 otos, enough?)
2) Get 100 malayan shrimps, let them feast and then see how many survive in the end
3) Get Yamato shrimps at the same time (any cheaper sources, my LFS sells at $2!)
4) Get 4 Black mollies
5) Put more plants and get them healthy.
6) Turn lights on for 4hrs, off 4 hrs, on 4 hrs again.
Enough?
Do I need UV sterlizer? I heard that this device is effective but it also kills beneficial ones, is it?
oto will not eat GSA
Some things I learned from personal experience and people reports :
- Use just enough lighting needed by your plants/setup. The slower metabolism will keep things better in check. More light is not always good.
- Get all the fertilizers you need (macro and micro elements) and adjust the dose as necessary.
- Make sure to give enough CO2 and that they are spreading well within the tank.
- Keep in check you bioload. Don't overstock the tank and don't overfeed.
- Do your water change and cleaning as needed (as in filter check, substrate vacuuming when it is too dirty, cleaning clogged diffuser, etc)
- Plant densely from the beginning.
My tank was right at the center of my living room, away from doors & windows. Sunlight was never even close to it.did you put your tank somehow close to window? or does it get sunlight in the morning or afternoon?
That what happen to me, so I bought thick curtain to block it
Will removing phosphate help to lower algae?
This is an interesting link on algae
http://www.tropicalfishforums.co.uk/...hread.php?t=59
The Dennerle website has some stuff on fighting algae too.
On a another note, if your tank allows, you can stock up on algae eaters. After hanging around a while I've realised there are more choices than what you normally read :
1. Otocinclus: apparently 3 flavours available : normal; zebra, tigers
2. Shrimps: malayan, cherries, yamatos
3. Plecos
4. Siamese Algae eaters (but I think 2 in a 5-foot tank is a lot because they get aggressive as they age)
5. Sewellia lineolata (hillstream loaches -need a higher flow and adequate oxygenation)
6. Freshwater neon gobies
Of course some would say that you're chasing your own tail by increasing bioload to fight algae. But so far i have at least 25 otos in a 5 foot and the tank has never been better.
For me i think UV is good way of keeping some algae away. For me as long as there is enough healthy plants in the tank, then the algae wont set in. Intially i was having a lot of problems in my 3 ft planted when i first set it up but however when the plants start to thrive, the algae goes away.
Does this mean that keeping a non CO2 tank with mostly moss and some plants would have a higher chance of algae?
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