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Thread: Mistakes to avoid installing chiller?

  1. #1
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    Mistakes to avoid installing chiller?

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    Ok this is the idea: install a chiller to get 24 to 25C in tank temp (need to pull down 5C)
    Chiller: Resun CL-280
    Power: 280W (950BTU); 1/10HP
    Recommended. Pump: >900LPH (238GPH)
    8°C Below 300L (14.5°F Below 80Gallon)
    15°C Below 200L (27°F Below 53Gallon)
    Size: 31x30x35cm (12.2x11.8x13.8")
    See picture at: http://www.aquariumsrus.com.au/heaters/cl280.htm

    This is the actual info on the tank:
    Tank: Freshwater, 4 footer, 40 gal, long, running for a month after being fishless cycled with ammonia solution. In a standard wood stand/cabinet.
    Planted: Low-tech planted: No CO2 injection; Low Lighting: two standard 20W fluorescent lamps: 1WPG (nominal maximun); substrate: 70:30 mix of river sand (propperly cleaned) bottom layer, and aquarium safe (acrylic coated) middle size rounded-edges gravel (natural brownish colors) top layer.(note: keeping lights off most of the day off due to high temp problem).
    Plants: Vallisneria, Anubias Barteri, Anubias Afzilli, Anacharis.
    Stocking: Red Salmon Rainbowfish (2 out of 7 remain alive, 1M +1F-3.5"+3.0"; waiting on 10 juveniles coming Monday night); Lake Kutuby Rainbowfish (1, unsexed, 2.0" , waiting on 10 juveniles, also on Monday night).
    NOTE: Temporay tank mates (using their home as Hospital tank at the moment) Zebra Danios (8, unsexed young all at 1.0" to 1.25", 4 of them Glofish), Fancy Guppies (3, 1M+2F, 1.25" to 1.75"), 5 Gohst Shrimps (unsexed, 1.5 to 2.0"); Apple Snails (2, unsexed -same sex, 3.0" each): Total actual (not adult) inches of fish+invertebrates: 36.5.
    Filtration: AquaClear 70 + AquaClear 50 (total of 550GPH nominal maximun), all with extra sponge media, ceramic and activated charcoal (I replace charcoal media every 3 weeks tops).
    Water parameters:
    Temp: a) without frozen drinking water bottles: 29-30C; b) with frozen drinking water bottles (replaced every 2 to 4 hours) 28-28.5C.
    This week readings: pH 7.4; Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates <10ppm; GH 10dH, KH 6.5dKH.
    Maintenance routine: weekly 30% water change with careful gravel vacuum.
    NOTE: I have been adjusting, slowly the pH from 7.7 down; aim at 6.8, with a KH of 2.5 or 3.0 dKH. By using less than 10% of RO drinking water, with marginal dosing of minerals and peat extract. My tap water is a mix from well/city water, that tends to be in the 7.6 to 7.8 pH range, with varying dGH (12-16); fortunaletly no ammonia nor nitrates present. Unfortunately, info on ideal ranges for this fish is mixed, so I've been checking with a breeder from other Country.
    Heaters: NONE, I live in the Caribbean. Temp steady at 27-31C all year long, mostly at 29-30C.

    Questions:
    The Resun CL-280 chiller (picking it up tomorrow) is designed to be installed in-line to a wet/dry (sump) filter. Can I install it with a powerhead straight to the tank? If so, is there a mistake or problem that is likely to happen when a blackout (power out) occurs? (I live in a city where that happens).

    I have (paying for it, lay-away arrangement) a wet/dry for 75gal that I purchased to install this chiller. I should have it in two weeks from now.

    Pro Clear Aquatic Systems model 75 Sump Wet/Dry Filter
    Dimensions- 20"L X 8"W X 18"H
    Capacity- 75 Gal OR 300 GPH
    Bio Area: 2.4 Gal (9.1L)
    SUMP: 8.75 Gal (33.1L)
    Recommended pump:476GPH (1,800LPH)
    See picture at: http://www.pro-clear.com/wetdry.html


    The problem is there are fish coming next Monday to that tank (20 Juveniles Rainbowfish) and I was wondering if I could (at least for a couple of weeks) install the chiller directly to the tank. I intend to keep those fish in that tank as they grow into adulthood; this tank, which i intend to use for breeding. Their final home will be custom made (two) 6footer, 100gal tanks are built (species only tanks, to keep large shcools in them).

    Thanks for your input.

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  2. #2
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    it is advisable to drive the chiller with the output of a filter. this will ensure that the coil does not get clogged.
    black out should be ok because both the chiller and the pump shuts down.
    thomas liew

  3. #3
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    Cl280. Isn't that too weak for your 4 feet tank?

    Cheers, Christophe
    ~ Ā q u ã O b s έ Ş Ş i ŏ ŋ ~
    Once you pop, You can't Stop
    http://aquaobsession.blogspot.com/

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    Hi you all. I finally got home the Resun CL-280 chiller and the Pro Clear Aquatic Systems mod.75 Wet/Dry. There was a tropical storm passing through yesterday.

    The 4 footer tank is just 40USgal. I am looking for a pull down of 3 to 4C (water temp 29C-30C; target temp 25-26C). So according to the manual, it should do the work pretty well.

    My ordered fish was suspended due to the tropical storm Gustavo (turned into Hurricane early this morning). These particular fishes are supplied by a private fishkeeper; the guy handling the order (I placed my order to be included in this particular LFS order) sent Boesemani Rainbowfish instead. Of course, being a confessed MTS and thriving in it, I will get a school of them, but will take my time setting things right.

    These two species of Rainbowfish need somewhat different water parameters, so I intend to set another tank for them. As juveniles I could still leave them in my established tank, once they pass quaranteene at the LFS (I wasn't planning on doing it that way with the Lake Kutubu and Red-Salmon bows). So my rush is gone, which is allways a good thing in fishkeeping.

    I am installing the Wet/Dry filter, and am considering to run it for at least a day or two without turning on the chiller, to check/correct any leaks. Is it advisable to do it that way?

    Remember I am no expert technician in this matters (although I was cheif maintenance engineer in professional audio recording 24/48 channels, in the analog days -remember LPs? since becoming a Clinical Psychologist, I enjoy doing this, but I must confess that practice -in my case lack of it- keeps skills in check -in my case, out of shape).

    I am also going to check (and rewire if needed) the AC outlet where the chiller will be plugged in, to assure no other load is connected to that line and a propper circuit braker is in place.

    Suggestion on water pumps/power heads are welcomed. The Wet/Dry filter is designed to run at 300GPH (1,136LPH); the Resun chiller manual specs say it requieres over 900LPH (238GPH), but no info on maximum flow. Should I consider 300GPH the top flow?

    Thank you

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  5. #5
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    Ok about 1:00AM I had everything in place and turned the chiller on. So far it's working great. Tank temp is steady in 26-27C, the fish are striving, and for the first time I will keep the lights on for more than 2 or 3 hours.

    Still need to log info on start-up frequency of the chiller to maximize its efficiency. No flooding when system shuts down. The Wet/Dry level raises a bit, but within safe margins, and the tank's volume decreases a bit, but I think that's expected.

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  6. #6
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    Just sharing my experience...

    I had a CL-280 for my 4 x 1.5 x 2 tank. Well it works for the first 3 months as the water temperature went down to 25C and my plants and faunas were happy then.

    Problem is the chiller compressor kicks in every 10mins and works for another 15mins and repeat the cycle. Increased electricity bill asides, I soon realised that the temp is going up. The chiller was over-working as it was not really meant to serve a 4footer.

    Before I decided to pull out the chiller, it was running at 30C constantly even if I set it to 27C. Do monitor the performance of your chiller.

  7. #7
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    I think the CL-280 is too small for your 4ft tank. Let me knw if you wish to sell. hehehehe

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    Great! Then you'll probably be the first in Singapore forum history to buy an aquarium chiller from the Dominican Republic!
    Suckerfish no eat poo poo.

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    MuakMuak
    I will observe and log the times between start-ups. According to the manual this unit should handle a 4footer, 40gal tank with no problems. However, I appreciate your report very much.

    As far as I know, increasing the water flow should keep the chiller running longer and reduce start-ups/day. I posted a new thread requesting info on the safe maximum flow for this or similar chiller. Still waiting for replies.

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  10. #10
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    This doesn't look good. I have been monitoring the Resun CL-280 today.

    The chiller runs for 4-5 minutes, then pauses for 4-5min.

    I read that at higher flow rate, chillers run for longer time. Is it true? If so, since there's no info on the manual about the maximum safe pump power I could use, I looked for info (wouldn't call that research), and found that one of the 1/10HP chillers in the market (USA Prime Flow Through Chiller) can work with up to 720GPH (2,725LPH). That is more than twice the flow I'm running my unit with (370GPH, 1,400LPH).

    Some of you (AquaObsession, Muakmuak) suggest that this unit is too small for my tank. If I need to upgrade, I have a Resun CL-650 available. Other units (need to check the brand and model) are also available at LFS.

    If indeed I need to upgrade, I would likely use the Resun CL-280 in a smaller tank (breeding tank), what would be the maximum length of tank this unit would handle efficiently?


    Thanks again

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  11. #11
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    I installed a chiller 3 months ago and had the same problem. After doing a lot more research, I got someone to install an in-tank thermometer and I now have an external power cut-in/off to the chiller based on the in-tank thermometer.

    What has happened in your case is the chiller is operating based on the temperature you set - but unfortunately, this temperature reading is taken from the chiller. So, once the water in the chiller reaches its set temperature, it cuts off. This happens even though the tank temperature is not yet at its desired level.

    There are some topics here that discusses this.

    Good luck!!

    Peng Kang Hill

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    Hi Peng Kang Hill,

    How much did u pay for the installation of the external thermostat inclusive of the labour cost + transport cost (if any)? I am also thinking of installing one for my hailea 300A chiller.

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    Sir,

    I got from this guy called Derek. Came over to my place and did everything. Cannot exactly remember how much but about $100+. You can call him at 90255562. Friendly guy.

    Peng Kang Hill

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    Hi Peng Kang Hill,

    Thank you very much for the information.

  15. #15
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    I DIY similar thermostat for my Hailea 300a, which I bought the thermostat from ACEZ in Sim Lim Tower basement.

    Look up those DIY links :
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=36892
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=32735

    Make sure you have some knowledge on basic electrical thingy, and do it at your own risk.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for the valuable information and the step by step guide for the DIY thermostat.

  17. #17
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    Hi: Thanks for posting the info on the external thermostat.

    I am capable of doing this electrical/rewiring work, it's not that difficult.

    I just want to add the following: the temp in my tank is optimal. I have "old tech" glass thermometers placed at both ends of the tank and it is within the expected range 26-27C. The problem for me is the short on-off-on cycles (12-10 minutes, 5-6 per hour).

    I am looking for a more powerful waterpump/powerhead, but so far no luck. I'm aiming at 2,700LPH (700GPH) to check if this would solve my problem. Someone suggested it will.

    However, since some have questioned the capabilities or efficiency of the CL-280 to handle a 4footer, 40gal tank for a 4-5C pull down (well, 50gal if we include the water in the Wet/Dry filter) I have the following question: Should I change it for a CL-650?

    I could easily upgrade to the CL-650, since all I have to do is purchase it (there's one available, it's 1/4HP), change the waterpump (there are a 4,000 and a 6,000LPH submersible waterpumps available that might work for this particular model) and of course, "plug-in" the chiller.

    That would leave mi with the option of installing the CL-280 in a smaller tank, either a 2footer 20gal or a 2.5footer 28gal wide tank, but this time I would need to use an inside the tank powerhead -no sump for these tanks- with at least a pre-filter attached to it, to prevent solid waste entering the chiller's heat-exchange tubing.

    Thank you again

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  18. #18
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    Updating info:

    I ended up upgrading the powerhead rated at 1,400LPH (Resun SP-2500) for a submersible pump with adjustable output rated at 6,000LPH (Resun Flow-6000).

    Start-up/turn-off time: 45 minutes (give or take 2 minutes); off/re-start time: >60 minutes. So far so good, and the temp in the tank is great.

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

  19. #19
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    Updating info:
    Today I got a Resun CL-650 for the 4footer. I will install the CL-280 in a 30"Lx18"Wx12"H Perfecto 30 Breeder tank (28USgal) to quarantine new-coming Rainbowfishes (Red Salmon and Lake Kutubu), and hopefully raise their fry later on. I'm expecting those fish next Monday.

    The efficiency of using a more powerful pump helped in the performance of the CL-280, but the elapsing time (on-off-restart) was getting shorter. In about a month it dropped from 45min on-off, and 60+ min off-restart to 20min on-off, and 15min off-restart, so I figure the higher speed might have clogged the internal pipes (my tank is heavily planted). I will clean it thoroughly before setting it up in the smaller tank.

    My lesson learned:

    Although the Resun CL-280 manual says it can work in tanks with greater volume than mine, I endorse with my particular experience the info I got from users in different forums, including AquaticQuotient, that the CL-280 should not be used in 48" tanks. It is just not cost-efficient, although it kept the drop down temp steady during two months, I could not achieve a stable on/off/restart sequence with a 6,000LPH pump.

    Hopefully the CL-650 will do the work efficiently. If not I will be upgrading again in a couple of months.

    Pepe
    Santo Domingo

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