anzai's 1ft tank

[anzai]

Hi guys,

I've been lurking around in AQ for the longest time, and I don't really post that often. I've recently started a 1ft tank and I would like to hear some feedback on how to improve my tank further.

Let me start off with some of the tanks that inspired me to start my tank ...



I always liked the dense forested look, with a nice lush foreground. This looks really nice especially since I like it when fishes play hide and seek in the tank. The problem is, it's very light intensive and high maintenance. Idea tried, but failed miserably.

This was my attempt, hardly anywhere near the ADA version.

[anzai]

Then I decided that I'd do something else.

Drawing inspiration from ADA (again):






This time round, I wanted to maximize the use of my open-top aquarium, and allow some driftwood to stick out from the top.

My first attempt:


Then as more plants died due to the low intensity of my 9W bulb, I decided to buy more low-light plants such as crypts and narrow leaf java ferns.
I also managed to buy a smaller branchy driftwood to add on to my bare tank.

Here's what I have now:

[chuac85]

would recommend stronger lighting....cos the daz brand light i see is only abt 6w or 5w?

[anzai]

So here's my limitations:

I only have 9W of light, and I'd really like to keep it this way.
So I think I'm really limited to only java ferns and bolbitis now.

More pics:




Comments and criticisms very welcome!
Help make this tank look good!

[blue33]

Great startup. Looking forward to more pictures. Other nutrients can easily get from fish food or fish waste except potassium. What you can do is everyday when light is on just add abit of potassium beside CO2, your plant will appreciate it. Once a week add abit of iron will get your plant more green or red.

I noticed you're using airstone as CO2 diffuser?

[Xianghao]

hi... i see obvious progression in your aquascapes from the first one until the current one. the current one looks quite parallel to the ada one which you drew inspiration from, however imho i think the positioning of the driftwood can be further improved.

Perhaps bringing the two pieces closer but still off centre wil make the scape more pleasing to the eyes?

[Xianghao]

oh wait i recognise the background.. are you an nus student staying in hall or something?

[Jervis]

I somehow see bluish tint on some of your shots... is your 9W PL bluish? If yes, it might not be suitable for planted tank. Overall nice attempts

[Cloud-Strife]

I think the light is a little bit bluish. I got that PL lights as well. Not really suitable for aqua plants. It will limit and slow down the growth of the plants. Bluish light more suitable for marine aquaria.

[anzai]

A'ite, I'll change the PL light to an 8K one then.

My sundadanios have been dropping like flies
I can't seem to do anything to save them.

[Jervis]

My sundadanios have been dropping like flies
I can't seem to do anything to save them.

Emm... sounds serious.

Here are some early suggestions:

1) Try not to mess with your substrate, replanting and removal of plant usually create nutrients spike that can harm the fish. If unavoidable, I will usually do it in conjunction with water change.

2) Our tap water is extremely lethal, make sure you treat them well with Anti-chlorine solutions before water change. Go for the best quality you can afford.

3) Water change will result in parameter fluctuation, pH being the most lethal. The best is to siphon out 20% to 30% old tank water. Top up 10% at intervals to let the tank water to readjust itself slowly, at least 30 mins interval if possible.

[torque6]

A'ite, I'll change the PL light to an 8K one then.

My sundadanios have been dropping like flies
I can't seem to do anything to save them.

I didnt know that Daz comes in 8K? Might want to see if DIY stall sells similar ones in 865 types.

By the way, how long have you cycled the tank? 4-6 weeks?

[PeterGwee]

Large changes in pH if caused by CO2 doesn't harm fish or critters but can kill if it is from changes in carbonate level via baking soda addition. Stating that sudden pH changes kills fish is plain wrong.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[Jervis]

Large changes in pH if caused by CO2 doesn't harm fish or critters but can kill if it is from changes in carbonate level via baking soda addition. Stating that sudden pH changes kills fish is plain wrong.

I am just suggesting a better and safer way of performing water change. By adding freshwater in smaller amount instead of instantly filling the tank with large amount of newly treated freshwater. In some of my tanks, the pH value between the two can be rather extreme, take my competition tank as an example:

Tank water: 5.5pH
Treated tap water: 8.0pH

A sudden 30% water change won't affect the livestock? You sure about that?

[PeterGwee]

I do 50% or more weekly water changes with no issues. For non-CO2 tanks that have not done water changes for months to years, caution is needed since the tap water "salt content" might vary quite a bit with that of the tank water. Look up on Osmotic shock on fish...

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[Jervis]

I do 50% or more weekly water changes with no issues. For non-CO2 tanks that have not done water changes for months to years, caution is needed since the tap water "salt content" might vary quite a bit with that of the tank water. Look up on Osmotic shock on fish...

Emm... I am spending time unnecessarily then. Maybe one day I will try your method

What fish/inverts are you keeping right now?

[PeterGwee]

Celestial Pearl Danio, neon tetras and sakura shrimps.

Just add the anti-chloramine solution to the tank before you do the topup via the tap.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[EvolutionZ]

i believe that depends on what fish you keep.. sensitive fish will have fin rot if im not wrong when theres a sudden change of pH..
anyway, lets get back to anzai's tank.. do update again after you change to another bulb.. i like the way you had your wood sticking out of the tank.

[blue33]

Emm... I am spending time unnecessarily then. Maybe one day I will try your method

What fish/inverts are you keeping right now?

I being doing like what Peter said since i started this planted tank hobby, i change more than that, like 70% water most of the time, just add anti-chloramine solution before top up, i just dont know why there are still so many people change small amount of water and slowly also. Till now i've not seen any of my fauna die because of that.

[torque6]

I am just suggesting a better and safer way of performing water change. By adding freshwater in smaller amount instead of instantly filling the tank with large amount of newly treated freshwater. In some of my tanks, the pH value between the two can be rather extreme, take my competition tank as an example:

Tank water: 5.5pH
Treated tap water: 8.0pH

A sudden 30% water change won't affect the livestock? You sure about that?

Similarly, I've having these difference in PH as well during my water changes. I don't believe alot of us add water "instantly" that is going by the usual tubing siphon method since it takes about 35 mins to just top up 15L of water. Adding coral chips for me has only made a small difference in PH buffering.

I do 50% or more weekly water changes with no issues.
Regards,
Peter Gwee

Agree, no issue. I have been doing 50% with no casualty, at least for boraras B. sp; you guys are familiar with my aquascaping profile.

... just add anti-chloramine solution before top up, i just dont know why there are still so many people change small amount of water and slowly also. Till now i've not seen any of my fauna die because of that.

I have 2x 30L containers which i dechlorinate by Prime + age my water for about 2 weeks, before water changes and bi-daily top ups, so i haven't tried adding anti-chlorine solution right before top up.

Anzai,
You've mentioned lurking at AQ for some time? So i wouldn't go into the details, but if i were you. I would try and get my plants to grow before adding fauna, and from the looks of it giving minimum cycling period, you will lose all your fauna in no time.