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Thread: My humble (noob) aquascaping tank

  1. #1
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    My humble (noob) aquascaping tank

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    Hi, here is my very basic (low tech) tank. Please give some advice on how to modify it to look better.

    Tank: 36X23X26 cm (LXBXH)
    Light: 24W PL (5 hrs)
    CO2: Daily dosage of Excel
    Fert: Twice weekly of Seachem flourish
    Soil: GEX (Green)
    Filter: Eden 501
    Plant: Moss (should be flame & java), the other two I not very sure (should be glasso & ricca) and Hairgrass.
    Fauna: About 30 pcs of cherry (help to deal with any algae).

    This tank will either become my cherry new house (currently in another old tank filled with about hundred over cherries) or will be filled with cardinal tetra and these 30 cherries.
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    I'd perhaps swap some of the HG with the 'tower of moss'. Putting the moss tower in the back right corner perhaps. Maybe one or two small rocks to separate certain areas. Currently it looks a bit like things are 'plonked' in. As you said, humble tank. I like it.
    Verminator

    Aquatic fanatic and keen learner of aquascaping

    The canvas is what you make it...

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    think some of the hair grass might be too big a clump. Can try to break them into smaller clumps. Anyway, is this tank cycled?
    It's simple...but no one said it will be easy

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    Have a look around in the aquascaping forum. You should a better idea on how to rescape your tank. What you need to start is some basic hardscapes; rocks or driftwoods. From there you start to build the scaping around them. Take you time to design. You will appreciate all you hardwork.
    Everything should be made as simple as possible...but not one bit simpler.

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    Any tank looks better with a piece of wood or a set of stones in it as a hardscape. Maybe you'd want to try doing that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Verminator View Post
    I'd perhaps swap some of the HG with the 'tower of moss'. Putting the moss tower in the back right corner perhaps. Maybe one or two small rocks to separate certain areas. Currently it looks a bit like things are 'plonked' in. As you said, humble tank. I like it.
    I second that. but some simple re-arrangement should easily solve that.

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    Thanks for all your reply/advices. Here is an update of the tank. However, I am facing two problems,

    1) I think I have taken too much time to insert the HG and E.ten, my rotala have "dried up' and some of the leave have turned dark green a bit of blackish. Is there any hope or it has already 'RIP'?

    2) How come my japonica has started to melt and some even shredded?

    I have also insert some so called fert stick in the GEX soil, and dose Seachem flourish twice weekly, seachem excel (1ml daily). My lighting is 2x24W PL, 5 hrs daily.

    Welcome more comments and help.
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    What a transformation! Nicely done!

    B. Japonica? It can be quite tough to keep. I know alot of people have it melt on them when they put it in there tank. I'm probably not the best person to advise on this, seeing as i havnt kept this plant before myself. Others care to help?
    Verminator

    Aquatic fanatic and keen learner of aquascaping

    The canvas is what you make it...

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    i've experienced both ends of the spectrum with blyxa japonica. i've had them multiply exponentially, and just recently had a complete meltdown. I think the key to blyxa is light. Co2 and nutrients are important, but light is the ultimate requirement of this plant. In my recent meltdown, the tank was dosed well with co2 and ferts, but due to massive leeching of tannins from my peat and driftwood, the water was brown and the t5ho lights couldn't penetrate. while the supposedly difficult (according to aquaticplantcentral) Myriophyllum tuber(whatever) [the red plant in Jervis's tank] flourished and more than doubled in mass/height, the blyxa totally melted away.

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    Every tank is completely different to the next. No two tanks (even by one person) have identical water parameters (unless they share same water system/filtration unit). I think Jervis experienced this recently. His madagascar lace grew beautifully in opne of his tanks, when moved to his latest tank it struggled.

    I notice from your initial post you have your lights on for 5 hours photo period. although i may not increase the volume (that the right word) of light, it certainly may provide a slightly longer photo period for your plants. Alot of people seem to have theres on between 8-10 hours i think. I personally have mine on for 10 hours, in two blocks of 5 hours with 2 hour siesta in the middle.
    Verminator

    Aquatic fanatic and keen learner of aquascaping

    The canvas is what you make it...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Verminator View Post
    I think Jervis experienced this recently. His madagascar lace grew beautifully in opne of his tanks, when moved to his latest tank it struggled.
    My Madagascar Lace is not doing too badly... will take a pix tomorrow

  12. #12
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    Jervis - fantastic! Glad it didnt completely die off

    Filletfish - Observing your plants some look somewhat undernurished (something i experience all to often). It could be that they are new and adjusting to your tank. Or it could be a lack of light penetrating deep enough (my first guess), or lack of nutrients.
    Verminator

    Aquatic fanatic and keen learner of aquascaping

    The canvas is what you make it...

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    Hi all,

    Thanks for all your comments. I hope that the plant are just adjusting to the environment. Will dosing of excel do the melting? I have check the forum but I don't come across anything about that. As for the lighting, I have just reduced the timing to 4 hrs, since I have increased the volume of light (2X 24W). Will monitor for a while, maybe 1 week to see how things progress. Or should I increase the duration but put it to interval like Verminator?

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    i think excel don't melt plants. maybe is temperature? you got fan?

  15. #15
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    The only plant i'm aware that melts with Excell dosing is Vallisneria species. Other than that it should not be a problem to your plants.

    Temperature could well be a factor. Its always a good bet to aim for around the 25-26oC mark. If you need a chiller or fan to do so it may be worth investing in one. It will bunk up your cost a little though.

    As for your photo period. Perhaps try 8 hours daily. You may think reducing the light will reduce the time the plant has to decrease in health, but this is not true. By reducing the lighting period you are infact reducing the plants photosynthesis period. Which will cause a more rapid decline in your plants growth. Either on your lights for 8 hours, or try two periods of 4 hours.
    Verminator

    Aquatic fanatic and keen learner of aquascaping

    The canvas is what you make it...

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