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Thread: Ludwigia sp and Eusteralis Stellata and other plants not gr

  1. #1
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    Ludwigia sp and Eusteralis Stellata and other plants not gr

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    I got 2 stalk of Ludwigia sp. I noticed that the red-color shows only when the plant is tall enough to reach the surface of the tank. This plant is situated on the left side of my 4ft tank and I have 4x36W PL on the left side of my tank. Also, other than the topmost leaves, the rest of the leaves seemed like 'broken' and withered and 'dead-brown' color (one stalk has already met the fate when I flush it down my wc 2 days ago). I dose Seachem comprehensive fertiliser (the all-in-one bottle) and Dr M micro with daily dosage. When I cut the top stalk (the nice red part) and replant, the same thing happen when the plant starts to grow longer.

    I have similar problem with Eusteralis Stellata (submerged form). Only the top leaves seemed to be in good condition. This plant is also planted on the LHS of my tank and so should have plenty of lights.

    Also, both plants mentioned will suddenly stop growing at the top and next few days, a few branches will start to grow from the top. This seemed to happen only after I started dosing K2SO4 a mth ago.

    O another thing, my Vallisneria asiatica seemed to have broken and brown tip too.

    Another strange thing that start happening in my tank is that green-plants such as Amazon Sword and Java ferns are turning a little bit yellow, starting off at the tip. A few leaves of the Sword are actually dead. Those freaking java and taiwan moss on the other hand are having a good time and are booming.

    Can anyone shed some lights on these problems? I have not dose any Mg and Ca yet. Is this the reason?

  2. #2
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    nicky,

    very often the redness in plants is due one of two 2 factors... usually in combination... The first is the presence of iron... secondly its the presence of strong light. In a past issue of The Aquatic Gardener, one article showed that the redness of plants is due to some chemical (whose name I forget) which help protect the plant from strong light... As such, its not surprising that only the tops of your plants are showing redness as this is very obviously where the light is strongest.

    Extrapolating from that, if you want more of your plant to be red, then you need to increase the strength of your light so that it has higher penetration
    Allen

  3. #3
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    ludwigia sp. required alot of FE and light, without strong light they should stay from a yellow to a orange tone.. but from what I observed in my tank(4x1.5x1.5 with 4x26watts) they r still orangey but never do I get leaves rotting from the bottom.. i dose my tank with 5ml florish a week, K2so4, E15 and gold7 tablets/capsule under them

  4. #4
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    I started planting Ludwigia Acurata and Ludwigia Brevipes 6 weeks ago. I have the similar problem in the beggining. The lower leafs drop, the middle of the stem melts. I first suspected the shrimps but I later found that they contributed only 10% of the problem.

    I have managed to get them going very well now. I just trimmed them and replant the top cut today to improve the quality. The followings are my latest findings:
    1) My exhausted base fert is one reason.
    2) The plant needs to be rooted deep (about 5 nods)
    3) Allow about 5 or more nods of leaf above substrate
    4) It is sensitive to water fluctuation, do not change too much water (10-20% a week or fornightly is rcommended)
    5) Liquid fert does not seems to help alot


    My target is to grow them low and very dense, I need about 2 months. If that's is what you want, plant them in bunches of 3-5 stalks, gap them about 2 inch apart. Preferebly, locate them at the back (they will grow fast and fill towards you, very nice effect) but not to the corner (less light there). Concentrate your light above them. Lower CO2 concentration, about 15 mg/l. Some claim adding potassium help but I am not sure.


    Have fun.

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