Advice on 1 foot planted tank about fish and cycling.

[lifestory]

I've been reading through aquaquotient for the past weeks and found the forum very informative and helpful. So I've decided ask for some specific tips now.



The spec of my tank is as follow:
- 1 foot tank (35 x 30 x 25 cm ) roughly 4 gallon
- Boyu Bio-filter
- Nisso 600 CO2 System
- Dymax fan
- 18 watts PL light
- GEX soil (red)
- Driftwood (is it?)
- Plants consist of :
-- Java moss (bottom right)
-- HC (foreground)
-- Nanas (on the wood)
-- Some spiky plant (left) < if you can identify it do let me know thanks!
-- Some leafy plant (background)

I've setup this tank for 4 days already after a rather failed setup previously (with spiky moss and Hydrocotyle which is a wrong move and sucker catfish and glass catfish which seemed too big for the tank). Anyway...4 days has passed and things seem to be going well (too early to tell hehe) and I'm having thoughts of getting fishes for cycling the tank. So here are a few questions I have:
1. What kind of fish should I get looking at the size of my tank for cycling? and how many?
2. I've heard of the rule of 1inch to a gallon which means i can have up to 4inch. Is this critical or can I afford to have more once the cycling is complete?
3. I did some test and found that my nitrite level is getting a bit high. Is that normal during cycling? What can I do to ensure a smooth cycle?
4. I noticed that my plants are dusty from the fine particles of substrate floating around, any good solution for this?

Hope I'm not being too lengthy here. Anyway, glad to be a part of this forum! Many thanks ahead!

[xaine]

Welcome here...

I guess most over here will advise with fishless-cycling (do read up more on this). Since you are already getting increase in nitrite reading, it looks like there is already a start in the nitrogen-cycle. Just use some fish feed to let things proceed and not rush in getting any fishes as yet.

As for the particles, it is normal since you have a new tank. These particles originate from the gravel and takes a few days to settle properly. Just use a stick and stir up a little of the mid water to allow the current to get these dirt off.

[beetlejuice403]

Hi lifestory,

nice having you on board this hobby... Have to agree with bro xaine that it's better to cycle the tank the fishless method. I advise against using fish for cycling for 2 main reasons: (1) Cruel to the fish - they have a life like us too; (2) What will happen to the fish after cycling? Unless you intend to keep them in the tank. Having plants in the tank can also help in the cycling process, except that they don't poo...

An increase in your nitrite level is normal in the cycling stage... [Or what some refers to as ANN cycle]. So long as there are BBs present in your tank setup, this stuffs will be taken care off after a period of cycling (varies from few days to few weeks - the longer the better for your faunas). Frequent water changes also helps in the cycling process.

As for the number of livestocks to get for your tank, I would advise to preplan what you intend to get (read up on its needs & compatibility with other livestocks). Then slowly introduce them into the tank few at a time, reason being you do not want to cause a sudden bio overload should the BBs in the tank be unable to handle & cause death of any livestocks...

For dusty plants (normally on the leaves), just gently wipe the dust off (or you may siphon it out). It will be gone once you have livestocks in there (their movements will 'knock' off these dust...)

Sorry for being naggy but hope the above helps.

[lifestory]

Thanks xaine and beetlejuice for the helpful advice!

Currently using a brush to dust off the small little particles on the leave, kinda like spring cleaning.

When you say that ANN spike is normal for tanks, do these spikes go way up? My previous setup had a case like this whereby the nitrite, yes nitrite, was quite high when i tested my water using this 5 in 1 indicator tetra test kit. nitrate is ok and ammonia too which was really weird.

I was suspecting it might be the amount of poo given out by the sucker catfish i had. Did loads of water change but didnt help much either.

Fish wise: Interested at getting rummy noses they look really blur and funny.

[beetlejuice403]

Thanks xaine and beetlejuice for the helpful advice!

Currently using a brush to dust off the small little particles on the leave, kinda like spring cleaning.

When you say that ANN spike is normal for tanks, do these spikes go way up? My previous setup had a case like this whereby the nitrite, yes nitrite, was quite high when i tested my water using this 5 in 1 indicator tetra test kit. nitrate is ok and ammonia too which was really weird.

I was suspecting it might be the amount of poo given out by the sucker catfish i had. Did loads of water change but didnt help much either.

Fish wise: Interested at getting rummy noses they look really blur and funny.

No mention lifestory...

The dust think will reduce or go away once all the particles in the water had settled down. However, it may happen again if the substrates is being disturbed (planting new plants, water changes etc) in the future... A generally strong & even flow of water current in the tank should take care of this problem in a few hours/days...

The Nitrogen (ANN) cycle is a must for new tanks... Ok, will try to make it short & simple here if possible... It'll start with Ammonia which comes from broken down fish food or fish wastes & is very dangerous for all livestocks. [Amonia readings should be 0ppm if possible]. Next, BBs in the tank will convert this ammonia into nitrites which is still harmful to livestocks [Nitrites levels can be brought down by frequent water changes & should preferably be 0ppm also]. Finally, whatever nitrites will be further converted to Nitrates during cycling. Ideally, it should not be higher than 20ppm in the tank. Having (enough) plants in a tank will help to absorb/control nitrates. Too much of it may cause algae boom... Therefore, by the end of the whole Cycling process, both Ammonia & Nitrites should read 0ppm & with less than 20ppm of Nitrates if possible before any livestocks are introduced... [Phew! Finally finished... ]

But since you already have livestocks in your tank, you may have to do more water changes to monitor the water parameters... As for the cute rummynose, you may wish to hold on first till the tank is fully cycled. Do take note not to overstock your tank also...

Regards.

[xaine]

lifestory,
At the end of the de-nitrification process, what you should be expecting is minimal ammonia & nitrite but an increase in nitrate. Usually the nitrobacter bacteria (which consumes nitrite and turns it into nitrate) will take a longer time to build up (almost twice as long) as opposed to the nitrosomonas bacteria (which consumes ammonia and turns it into nitrite). So patience is the key to a successful aquatic hobby. In anycase, regular cycling should be about 6 weeks (you should see your parameters as I mentioned eariler). With that, your livestock should be ready to be introduced into the tank.

With the introduction, it is another topic all together, like climitisation and stuff. In the meantime, do read up on some of the stuff I have mentioned to helo yourself be prepared for a successful setup.

Have fun.

[lifestory]

Hey, thanks for the knowledge.

An update of my tank.
- I've changed my CO2 system to a high pressured CO2 tank. Setting the bubble counter to roughly 6bpm as I'm oning my CO2 for 24/7. Is this enough?
- Added 3 rummies (sorry, I couldn't resist it)
- Added 2 rocks for decor.

My Tank Now -

Weird Leaves -

Also, where is weird black dust on my leaves. They are easy to wipe off with a paintbrush but it just keeps settling on my leaves. Are those dust from the GEX soil? How do I stop it?

Copy the Image URL to see the pictures. Sorry about it.

[Tony]

Looks like Black Brush Algea (BBA) to me.

[beetlejuice403]

Hi bro, below are my replies in blue....

Hey, thanks for the knowledge.

An update of my tank.
- I've changed my CO2 system to a high pressured CO2 tank. Setting the bubble counter to roughly 6bpm as I'm oning my CO2 for 24/7. Is this enough? Some bros do not advise 24/7 for CO2 (fear of CO2 poisoning for faunas), so you may chose to get a solenoid valve if budget permits...
- Added 3 rummies (sorry, I couldn't resist it) Can understand the temptations... Was once like you until I learnt it the hard & painful way...
- Added 2 rocks for decor. Nice rocks, surely made your scape more natural...

My Tank Now -

Weird Leaves -

Also, where is weird black dust on my leaves. They are easy to wipe off with a paintbrush but it just keeps settling on my leaves. Are those dust from the GEX soil? How do I stop it? Don't worry, these are just fine soil (substrate) particles which had settled on the leaves (especially when you'd just set up the tank or recently disturbed the substrates). This should stop after a few days when your substrate had settled down (however, if it doesn't, it may mean that the current in the water column may be too strong & always disturbing your substrates to cause this problem...) Adding some suckers (Otos, Ramshorn snails) in it may help as they like to suck onto the surfaces of the plants & as they do so, they help to remove (not eat) the dust too... <-- This is based on my own experiences...

Copy the Image URL to see the pictures. Sorry about it.

[lifestory]

Thanks beetlejuice,

I'll test out the CO2 on 24/7 for awhile to see the outcome before deciding.
Glad you like the rocks, I would need to clean the tall one though cos I got it from a friend and his tank is filled with algae. Gave that rock a good scrub but there's still some of it left.

Maybe I'll take your advice on getting otos for the job. As my tank is just 25 cm tall, the flow of the current is easily stirred. Hopefully it settles down..

Btw, speaking of otos, I'm curious to know. What's the disadvantage and advantages or otos, SAEs and Yamato shrimps? Seems like all of them do the same job. Is there certain conditions when u shld choose one over another?

[WiNd08]

sorry, but may i ask that i do not have solenoid regulator.. but i reduce my BPS and on for 24/7 would it help solve CO2 poisoning problem?

[lifestory]

sorry, but may i ask that i do not have solenoid regulator.. but i reduce my BPS and on for 24/7 would it help solve CO2 poisoning problem?

Same method I am using. I'm currently testing it out. I slowed mine to about 6bps. Let's test this out together.. and hopefully.. not wreck our tanks...

[WiNd08]

Same method I am using. I'm currently testing it out. I slowed mine to about 6bps. Let's test this out together.. and hopefully.. not wreck our tanks...

6 BPS!??!?! or do you mean 6 BPM ?

hahaha

mine is running at 3BPS 24/7 for 4ft tank..

thinking of reducing to 2bps or even 1bps if possible

[lifestory]

6 BPS!??!?! or do you mean 6 BPM ?

hahaha

mine is running at 3BPS 24/7 for 4ft tank..

thinking of reducing to 2bps or even 1bps if possible

Oops, 6bpm.. about 10 sec each between each bubble.. I'm not totally sure as well. hopefully someone can give us better guidance. Thanks ahead.

[WiNd08]

yeah, hopefully it would work well and no CO2 toxificaton. i on my tank lights as night lights(using timer). so it's very inconvinent for me to off during the morning and on when i reach home, afraid im home late at times.

unless i change the lights on period to the day, i can on and off the valve myself in time.

hmmmmmm..

[lifestory]

yeah, hopefully it would work well and no CO2 toxificaton. i on my tank lights as night lights(using timer). so it's very inconvinent for me to off during the morning and on when i reach home, afraid im home late at times.

unless i change the lights on period to the day, i can on and off the valve myself in time.

hmmmmmm..

For me, I'll be investing on another timer for my fan. so when the lights are on, the fan is off and when the lights are off, the fan is on.

What I'm hoping to achieve from this insane idea is to have the fan to generate water surface movement that will release the co2 into the air. Serves as a dual purpose too i guess cos I need the fan to cool my tank anyway.

[WiNd08]

hmmm, imo, i think fan should on when lights are on as its when your temperature goes up. my 4ft is 28`C when lights off (with fan on) and 28.5`C when lights are on with fan on as well. got a feelin without fan it can hit up to 30`C!!

i might invest in another fan, or what the heck, just get a dual fan and make it a total of 3 fans