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Thread: New setup advice needed

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghim View Post
    You haven't order the tank yet? It may takes some time. Thus giving you more time to consider your shopping list.

    For buying 50-100 pieces of tetras, you can it from seaview. Cheaper when you buy 50 or more.

    If you are really getting the LED lights. I would suggest getting 2 sets with 2xLED tubes each. Below is how my glosso is growing after 3 weeks. Now fighting BBA
    If your lighting doesnt make your plant consume the nutrients and CO2, chances are algae attack, like your plant attack by BBA now.

    MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!! TIME TO LAY BACK AND RELAX!
    A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step

  2. #22
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    This is my own setup for my 4x1.5x2 (LxWxH) tank.


    1) Substrate: JBL Aquabasis x 3 packs (5 litres each), Black crystal quartz x 4 packs (10kg each)
    This is a tried and tested method and one of the cheapest substrates around.

    2) I use a single Ehiem Classic 2215 with the quick release adapters. Only need to 'suck' once for initial setup. I use a powerhead to increase the circulation within the tank. Depending on your bioload, with good filter media (high surface area to volume media, like Biohome, Eheim Pro Substrat, etc), I believe a single 2217 or even 2215 is sufficient for filtration purposes.

    For mess-free subsequent priming, do the following steps:

    1)Lock both inlet and outlet quick release valves. Turn off the filter.
    2)Decouple both sides. Now you can move the filter.
    3)Open the outlet side to let air in to break the vacuum. Now the filter can be opened up for cleaning.
    4)Once done with cleaning, top up with water, then close the filter
    5) Couple to the inlet side. NOTE!! Do not couple outlet side yet.
    6)Open both inlet and outlet valve. Gravity will draw water from the tank into the filter. Water will start sprouting from the outlet valve. Use a container to collect the sprouting water. Close both valves. The prime is fully primed.
    7) Couple up the outlet valve and start the filter. Open both valves. The filter should be running smoothly now.


    3) I personally use 3x38watts T8 lights. This would be classified as a low light setup. In my opinion, I think 4x54watts T5HO bulbs are sufficient for a 4ft tank. This would yield around 3-4wpg.
    Last edited by Laconic; 11th Dec 2008 at 23:32.
    Mercurial Madman

    "Death is like a feather; Duty, like a mountain."
    Aquarium Now! REDUX

  3. #23
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    A bit confused here now. The BBA is due to effective lights or ineffective lights? What I read was that the lights are strong, without sufficient CO2, then will cause algae?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laconic View Post
    This is my own setup for my 4x1.5x2 (LxWxH) tank.


    1) Substrate: JBL Aquabasis x 3 packs (5 litres each), Black crystal quartz x 4 packs (10kg each)
    This is a tried and tested method and one of the cheapest substrates around.

    2) I use a single Ehiem Classic 2215 with the quick release adapters. Only need to 'suck' once for initial setup. I use a powerhead to increase the circulation within the tank. Depending on your bioload, with good filter media (high surface area to volume media, like Biohome, Eheim Pro Substrat, etc), I believe a single 2217 or even 2215 is sufficient for filtration purposes.

    For mess-free subsequent priming, do the following steps:

    1)Lock both inlet and outlet quick release valves.
    2)Decouple both sides. Now you can move the filter.
    3)Open the outlet side to let air in to break the vacuum. Now the filter can be opened up for cleaning.
    4)Once done with cleaning, top up with water, then close the filter
    5) Couple to the inlet side. NOTE!! Do not couple outlet side yet.
    6)Open both inlet and outlet valve. Gravity will draw water from the tank into the filter. Water will start sprouting from the outlet valve. Use a container to collect the sprouting water. Close both valves. The prime is fully primed.
    7) Couple up the outlet valve and start the filter. Open both valves. The filter should be running smoothly now.


    3) I personally use 3x38watts T8 lights. This would be classified as a low light setup. In my opinion, I think 4x54watts T5HO bulbs are sufficient for a 4ft tank. This would yield around 3-4wpg.
    Thanks for sharing

    Think I have to get the actual filters before i can understand how its done....

    Do the quick release valves come out of the box or purchased separately?

  5. #25
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    Purchase separately.

    It is called Rapid disconnecting coupling

    If I don't remember wrongly, need to get 2 sets, one for outlet and one for inlet.
    Mercurial Madman

    "Death is like a feather; Duty, like a mountain."
    Aquarium Now! REDUX

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by angtc11 View Post
    A bit confused here now. The BBA is due to effective lights or ineffective lights? What I read was that the lights are strong, without sufficient CO2, then will cause algae?
    Dont confuse me too. Am getting another LED tube soon, when the stock arrives.

    My BBA is due to poor circulation and overdosing(too many holidays). Plus too long hours of light.

    My hairgrass just started spreading after 2.5 weeks.

    T5 or PL may be an easier choice, as they are proven for a long time.

  7. #27
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    I don't think it is due to overdosing other everyone who are using EI will have algae problem in their tank
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

  8. #28
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    Hey there, sorry for the late reply. I was busy with being busy

    I have the following light setup:

    - X2 4Ft Strips of X3 T5 Tubes Each @ 54W 10K

    You will have problems punching the light thru to hit things like glosso's, HC's or any other high light creeper you hope to have. This is with a 2FT height tank. I strongly suggest having a tank that is 1.5FT or 1.7FT.

    You just have to know what you are choosing to go for. My setup is "forrested" I like the "garden" look. I have over-hangs all over the place.

    Here is a bro from the forums, who's aquascape I am particularly fond of:
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=46843

    You will see his tank dimensions at his signature.



    Quote Originally Posted by angtc11 View Post
    Hi Loopy

    I intend to get one with a height of 2 feet. Should be a standard height?
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  9. #29
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    Hi bros

    Just to update, have booked a 4x1.5x1.5 tank, due for delivery on 27th Dec

    Gotten a Eheim 2028
    T5 lights 2x54. Might decide to get another set later on to make it 4x54 if its insufficient.
    Gex Shrimp and plant soil
    CO2
    fan

    Quite excited, going to plan the layout soon. Any suggestions on the look?

    Besides this, anything else I need to buy to get ready for 27th?

  10. #30
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    You don't have to get everything ready on the 27th, just need the tank and the substrate. Make sure you do a good tank cycling. Will save you loads of pain later.

    You intending to use any drift or bog wood? If yes, get them early so you can soak or boil it. This will enable the tannins to leach out and let the driftwood sink. Probably need to soak 1 week at least.

    That's all I can think of at the moment. Happy aquascaping!
    Mercurial Madman

    "Death is like a feather; Duty, like a mountain."
    Aquarium Now! REDUX

  11. #31
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    Hi Laconic

    Thanks for the reminder. I intend to get some wood. Any good way to boil/soak it in hot water if I dun have a suitable pot? Think normal pails might not be suitable since the water might melt the plastic pails.

    Talking about substrate, should I get the plants earlier? Was thinking to 'quarantine' them in tank with puffers to remove the snails, but same story, no suitable container. Is it ok if I plant the plants and put puffer to remove the snails while cycling the tank?

    Thanks

  12. #32
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    You can use those red pails. Won't melt. But for me, I just soak them in tap water. The process takes longer though. Maybe 2 weeks or so. Or you can soak the wood in your tank while it's cycling.

    To speed things up, you can put the wood in a pail and pour boiling water on it.

    As for quarantining plants, personally I don't do it, because I think having some snails are good for the tank. I always add some MTS when starting up a tank. And most snails do not harm the plants so as long as their numbers are under control, I leave them alone.

    But if you are intent on removing them, I believe the classic tried and tested method is to dip the plants in dilute bleach solution. The exact proportions you would have to do a search on the net.

    On your proposed method, it is definitely ok, but what are you going to do with the puffer afterwards? I rather suggest you get the Assassin Snail (Anentome helena) for snail control instead.
    Mercurial Madman

    "Death is like a feather; Duty, like a mountain."
    Aquarium Now! REDUX

  13. #33
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    The puffer probably give to someone or take back fish shop give them....

    I have a snail problem with my current small tank, it was almost overrun with snails, thats why its important to me to prevent them even entering the tank.

    The assassin snail seems interesting but would it take over the tank after it removes the other snails? Does it eat other food besides snails?

    Edit: Saw that it eats other stuff besides snails. Think I wun consider it... will really kick myself if it turns out to be the plague after it removes all the others
    Last edited by angtc11; 17th Dec 2008 at 00:42.

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