The best is put water with your quick disconnect intact and fill water by the pipe when you see both sides going to be full you put in your tank sure works.
Classic
Ecco
Pro
Pro2
Pro3
yup, wrong way of priming.
Why don't you install the piping but don't connect to the filter, Fill the inlet until full but left the outlet empty. Put the inlet on the tank and out let on the bucket. Connect it to the filter. It should start siphoning, wait until you see water coming out from the outlet, put your outlet in the tank.
The best is put water with your quick disconnect intact and fill water by the pipe when you see both sides going to be full you put in your tank sure works.
The 1st time I used my current 2213, the canister body was not filled with cr.
I simply sucked till the water started to siphon. Then let gravity fill the canister up.
I was using double taps, so easy too. Just off the valve when it start to flow out and attached it back.
Learning the hardway, not the highway.
Photo Blog - impervious-endeavors.blogspot.com
Semi-Active currently
"if he cant be bothered to take the time to write his question properly, why should I take the time to answer him."
Sucking is the best way. haha Just make sure there's no water in the canister or hose.![]()
You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung
One way I did to check leak (and also priming the canister) :
(1) Canister without water, connect inlet tube to tank. Connect outlet to a short length of tube with the Ehiem coupling valve.
(2) Use a bellow hand pump (those made for pumping balloon or swimming float, yellow color, with a red and a blue connector, use the end that is sucking air, probably the red end) connect this to the outlet tube valve and prime the canister.
(3) water should start flowing into the canister. Remove the hand pump.
(4) you should able to feel the air coming out from the canister outlet valve (put your thumb over it).
(5) Use your thumb to block the outlet valve, you should feel air pressure building up inside the canister. If there is any leak at the canister you can hear hissing sound when you block the outlet (as air is escaping from the leak area); or if you don't feel the air pressure even with water flowing in then the leak is very serious.
(6) if there is no leak, continue fill till water about to come out from the out let valve, turn the valve off. Connect to tank, open all the valves and turn on the switch.
First suspect of the leak usually is the gasket ring either not seating proper (re-seat it), or is already aged (lost its elasticity, time to change a new ring)
Where can still find the balloon blower.
Very old school, is there a like button haha.
Learning the hardway, not the highway.
Photo Blog - impervious-endeavors.blogspot.com
Semi-Active currently
"if he cant be bothered to take the time to write his question properly, why should I take the time to answer him."
@xconnect, Robert & felix:
Yup, I was indeed pouring water too aggressively into the general area around the inlet/outlet holes of the top cover. When I conducted my 2nd (leak) test the night before, I tried topping up the canister very gingerly via the inlet hole only (until the canister is almost full); & connected the inlet & outlet rubber hoses to fill up any remaining capacity via the inlet hose only, I was able to have the filter up & running with no issue (water leaking) for a long time.
So it appears the folly is on my part, i.e. remembering wrongly that I can top up the canister completely via pouring water blatantly into that general cavity around the inlet/outlet holes.
@dc88:
Thanks for the thorough leak test walk-through.
Btw, I saw a type of translucent black hose at Green Chapter earlier today but they couldn't sell it to me because they are not really sure about the price. Anybody has any clue where else I may find translucent (or opaque, even better) hoses which are compatible with Eheim filters?
Hi ralliart12,
Your inbox is full..trying to send the relevant information for your references
Hey G&A,
You have sent me pms regarding ans tank. However, I tried replying you but the reply can't seem to get pass thou.
Just a short reply here, the word 'yiding' was print at the left side of the front glass. However, I think the current batch doesn't have anymore.
Sorry TS for being irrelevant about the post.
Zack
Hi everyone,
I know I shouldn’t be thinking about it so soon… but I’ve a 10gallon tank currently(setup 1.5months ago) and I’m exploring the possibility of changing the current HOB(Fluval C3) to a Eheim canister filter.
From the info that I’ve read on AQ and other forums, apparently, a Classic 2213 will be more than sufficient for me. However I am also quite frustrated about constant upgrading and changing of equipment which costs quite a bit. I am “secretly” planning to upgrade my tank to a bigger one, probably 2-3 feet probably by end of the year or early next year. As such, in my search for a Eheim filter which is able to support a bigger tank, the Classic 2215 also comes into the picture as well as the Pro 2224.
The advantages of the Classic as mentioned by most people seemed to be on the minimalist approach(less parts, less areas for failure). However I realise that if I were to get the Classic, the double-taps seemed to be a necessity as well. That adds to the cost on top of the bio media which is needed.
The Pro 2224 caught my attention firstly was the price which isn’t really too much more than the 2215(if factoring in 2x double taps, since the 2224 comes with integrated ones already). Also the power of 8w versus 2215’s 15w seemed to be a welcomed feature. Can’t really get confirmation yet on whether the Pro 2224 comes with bio media or not(if so, then it’s a no brainer), I was checking out the price on GC and Fresh n Marine. Something mentioned about “media included” although it seemed to be only the sponges and not the CR or balls etc.
***Of course, I am assuming that the double taps allows me to control the flow of the output in order not to concuss my fishes with the full power of the filter. Which I assume is possible from what I've been reading so far on the web.***
One concern I have is about the surface agitation for the Eheim filters using the rain bar. Does it mean that in order to get maximum gas exchange, I have to setup the rain bar above the water level and aim the water jets into the water creating bubbles? That would create a lot of noise isn’t it? Currently the HOB which I have setup, the water slides silently into the tank as I top up the tank water to be in line with the edge of the filter where the water is coming out. Actually I quite like the C3 as I can see the circulation is going to almost all parts of the tank(as I observe how tiny bits of fish food is travelling in the water). Just wondering if I aim the output from the ehiem out of the water, would it be able to achieve the same circulation? Then again, if I put the whole outlet underneath the water level, that wouldn’t have the gas exchange and I’m not sure if my fishes will make it during the night time.
Any kind advice or comments from anyone? Many thanks in advance.
Last edited by Cyberkinetic; 23rd Jul 2012 at 16:10.
For my 2224 i put its outlet to my extended ehiem installation kit which span the whole two feet shrimp tank. For me I use it as just a biological filtering equipment so I point the rain bar outwards abit for some water flow.for me filter outlet for oxygen not effective I use bubble stone for my shrimps and I locate the stone where I find stagnant water in my tank for water flow and efficient oxygen distributing.What I find about the classics is that "nothing can go wrong "as the water flows from the bottom to top or the other way round I forget.however for 2224 if the rubber oring is loose it may cause the water to "mix" and this factor may compromise the biological filtering effiency.
Just got myself a 2224 last night. Can't resist the temptation. Will set it up this weekend.![]()
Does anyone know which fish shop has the most eheim accessories in Singapore ? Looking for the prefilter which attaches to the inlet pipe. Thanks.
No doubt us Qian hu Singapore. If not seaview also can.
But don't you find it not "black/opaque" enough? I figure the coloring is equally as "intense" as the default green ones, which leads me to suspect, algae (& grime) will still grow on the inner surface after some time.
I wonder if I can find a version that is just translucent enough to see if anything is choking water flow (or trapped livestock) but otherwise almost opaque
Yes, it does come with 2 types of media (I posted a photo of the 2 types of "stock" media) here: link.
Do note: if you wish to control the flowrate using the integrated double-taps, according to 2224's instruction manual, you should only use one of the taps to restrict: link.
Actually, if you are talking about maximising your gas exchange, you can also have your rainbar all the way at the bottom of the tank, with its array of holes pointing upwards, i.e. streaming water from the bottom towards the water surface at the top. But I don't think many people do this for asthetic purposes.
That is actually how I process my tap water, i.e. I have a wavemaker that is attached onto the bottom of the pail & pointing directly upwards.
& yes, if your outlet is outside the water body & jetting the water streams downwards, not only will you have to contend with the noise, but the splashes will be around your tank area also.
Do not forget, when setting up tank flow patterns, your inlet, i.e. the point where the water is "pulled", plays a part also.
As long as there is *some* surface agitation, I believe you need not worry about this. I'm also eager to hear comments from planted tank owners with extremely dense planted setups that contains fishes.
Off-topic a bit: do you use this kit to do your priming after filter maintenance?
At which spot will the mixing of water occur?
Typically how long does the pair of O-ring last? How do we judge if it is too loose until unserviceable?
You looking for this specifically?:
![]()
Bookmarks