I love my 2224 700L/h 8w which is v good
Classic
Ecco
Pro
Pro2
Pro3
When you are talking about power, you need to look closely on the whole spec. You should notice that with lower power, you lose Hmax. By right should also considered the filter volume because that also affect the power needed. There is no free lunch, the energy must go somewhere.
Classic:
2215: 620l/h, 1.8m, 15W
2217: 1000l/h, 2.3m, 20W
Ecco pro:
200: 600l/h, 1.4m, 5W
Pro: 950l/h, 2m, 20W
1050l/h, 2m, 20W
Pro2:
2026: 950l/h, 2m, 20W
2028: 1050l/h, 2m, 20W
Pro3:
250: 950l/h, 1.5m, 12W
350: 1050l/h, 1.8m, 16W
I love my 2224 700L/h 8w which is v good
Actually, the strongest Eheim canister is the Pro3e, in terms of max flow and head pressure, with an increased power usage, although I find the higher power still very efficient for the kind of flow and head pressure we get
2078: 1850l/h, 2.6m, 10-35W
2076: 1700l/h, 2.4m, 10-35W
Flowrate and head pressure can be decreased from the above stated max, with a corresponding reduction in power, down to 10W. Unlike the other models, where flow reduction is achieved through a physical valve (and thus, no energy saving or reduction in heat dump), the Pro3e actually slows the impeller speed down (can hear the noise signature change when changing speed).
For the price of one 8W canister, one could possibly easily get 2 big HOFs with added cost-saving benefits. For canisters, the best buys are usually the bigger and pricier ones.
Even the best and biggest canister models are now made capable of speed-reduction to save power, decrease flow, etc.
LIFE IS UNBEARABLE WITHOUT A FISH TANK!!!
Using Pro 3. Love the trays as compared to the classics. One for the sponges, then two for substrat pro and last the mech.
Was wondering if i should stick to two substrat tray or change one to other media like matrix? I've planted so i dont think placing carbon will be a good idea.
With weekly bacter from waterlife, i was able to achieve the water parameters i wanted within 3 weeks. Nonetheless to be on the save side i waited till 4th before adding any fauna.
The canister is extremely quiet. My fan is louder.
VSGenesis
"The success or failure of your deeds, does not add up to the sum of your life. Your spirit cannot be weighed. Judge yourself by the intentions of your actions, and by the strength with which you faced the challenges that have stood in your way. The Universe is vast and we are so small. There is really only one thing we can ever truly control whether we are good or evil." - Oma Desala (Stargate - SG1)
http://hisstoryimmortalised.blogspot.sg/
Matrix is really a good media with pots for both Nitrifiers and Denitrifiers. Matrix really contribute to reduce NitrAtes after 2-3 week matured. Planted tank may thrive with NitrAtes i guess. So it will help to maintain NitrAtes at lower levels. But high NitrAte levels can't reduce by Matrix. For that you need "Seachem Denitrate" media with less than 200lph with a separate setup.
Rearing L-numbers : 3 x semi adult L333, 7 x Adult L66, 1 x 10" L190, 1 x 4" L027 XP, 10 Adult L46, 2 adult L273
Filtration : 1 x Eheim 2075, 1 x Eheim 2032
Media : Substrat pro, Mech pro, Bio mech pro, Biohome, Matrix, ehfi lav
Anybody knows the price of a 2222 & whether it comes with media?
Erm 2222 not in production already Only 2224 which cost 128$ if my memory don fail me
They changed the name if I remember it is pro 250 however there is still old stocks that still put as 2224
I believe it's just the naming convention of the filter, probably got to do with the branding of the company. Don't be too hard up on it.
Need something to scratch that itchy hand of mine.
Don't act smart. Be smart!
I actually went to C328 to check & they have the 2222 (may be their old stock?) at a slightly higher price than that $128-figure. In the end I paid +$30 for another 2224 (I have one unused one), since it's well, "only" +$30.
Anyway fellows, I have got some new questions:
Qn1a: is it al right to use the adjustable "valves" built-into the pump head of the 2224 as a permanent means to throttle down the flow-rate of the filter, i.e. to "tune" the outlet and/or inlet valve to "half-open" permanently? Will that spoilt the pump?
Qn1b: if that's al right, which should I close half-way? The inlet valve, or the outlet valve?
Qn2: is it al right to have the entire canister permanently placed above the water-level of the tank?
Good question there! I would like to find that out also. In any case, I would assume that it would be better to throttle down both inlet and outlet rates at the same level.
Need something to scratch that itchy hand of mine.
Don't act smart. Be smart!
Erm can leave like that I don't do that though. But some people say will increase the filters power consumption.
Question two is Erm I don't really recommend because firstly you may cause the filter to work harder OR you maybe having a very hard time to start the filter to run.But I never try before so yeah
Sure, but it doesn't state if we can reduce both at the same time?
Need something to scratch that itchy hand of mine.
Don't act smart. Be smart!
If you were to place your filter at the same level as your tank but at a distance of about 2ft away from the tank using a filter that have both the inlet and outlet valves situated at the top of the pump head area like in the Eheim Pro series, you will definately have airlock problems at the impellor or pump head area. No matter how much you shake and meddle with it also no use, even after you've primed it properly. The only way to minimise the problem is to reduce the flowrate at the outflow valve but the problem is still there though not as bad. I'm not sure whether you will have this problem a not if you were to place the filter just beside the tank cos i've not tried it before.
But if the base of the filter is slightly lower than the tank base eg. Tank is placed on the bottom of a 2 tier stand and the filter beside the tank and on the floor, than you won't have airlock problems if you've primed it properly.
BTW i was wondering whether has anybody tried placing their Eheim Classic at the same level as their tanks and not experience airlock problem cos theorectically it shouldn't have any problems since the inlet is at the base of the filter. Can anybody comment on it?
Admiring my Fishes calm the Beast within me
Oh? Why is this so?
That is exactly how I'm deploying it for my (second) tank now! So far so good, though the flowrate is severely reduced via my lily pipe.
Have a 2211 placed slightly (base of tank is around 20cm higher than base of filter) lower than my 1.5-footer tank & the filter is making too much noise; suspect is air-locked.
It could be that the distance/length of the tubing makes the flow of water even more difiicult especially around the pump head area. I'm not sure whether you'll have the same problem if you put the filter just beside the tank and at the same level cos i've never tried it before.
One thing i noticed is that my other filter that is situated just beside and at a lower level than the tank.... when i didn't prime it properly before i first start my filter and later go and shake it lightly hoping to help the filter get rid of the air, it ended up the inlet side stopped sucking in the water.In my opinion such setups can be quite tricky in preventing airlock problems.
Admiring my Fishes calm the Beast within me
Anybody knows the direction of water flow through a 2224? The reason I asked, is because I'm a bit perplexed by the default arrangement of media types as advised by the Eheim 2224 manual, which is (from top to bottom of the canister):
Fine filter pad (white wool)
Biological media (Eheim SubstratePro)
Blue filter pad (coarse)
EhfiMech
I would have thought the mechanical filtration should occur before the biological, which means I would expect something like this (from top to bottom of the canister):
Biological media (Eheim SubstratePro)
EhfiMech
Fine filter pad (white wool)
Blue filter pad (coarse)
& that is assuming "dirty" water from the tank flows from the bottom to the top (of the canister). Anybody can enlighten me on these?
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