Advertisements
Aquatic Avenue Banner Tropica Shop Banner Fishy Business Banner
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Starting a planted tank

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    111
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore

    Starting a planted tank

    Advertisements
    Fresh n Marine aQuarium Banner

    Advertise here

    Advertise here
    Hi, I've some doubts to clear regarding the above mentioned subject.

    1) As we all know, (gonna make it brief) start by laying the base fertilizer followed by sand/gravel. Then fill 1/3 of the tank with water for ease of planting. Once all planting is done, top tank up with water to the required level. Ok, so the questions are:
    a) Is it necessary to de-chlorinate the water?
    b) If so, what is the best method to do it?
    c) Is it true that plants are more tolerant to chlorine than fishes? If not, how can this be rectified?

    2) Ok, so after the setup, the next step is to allow the tank to cycle for at least a month. So the questions are:
    a) Is it necessary to do water change? Was told by some that it is necessary so as to prevent algae growth while others said that it shouldn't be done as this will kill/wash off the good bacterial.
    b) Is it good to add artificial bacterial like Serra's NitriVec?
    c) Is it necessary to add trace elements at this point of time? And when should it be added? After the 2nd week? 3rd week? If yes, then what is the base fertilizer for?
    d) Read that Amano used active carbon during the first week or so. But what is the function of that? And won't that absorb all the trace elements (if trace elements are added)?

    3) Which is more important with regards to lighting? Watt per litre or kelvin?

    4) I've been experiencing plants rotting by the end of the first week or so. Why is that so? Not enough light or fertilizer? Or has it got to do with the water condition? Any ways to rectify this?

    5) It is good to start the tank with some fast growing plants to absorb excess nutrients. So when should these plants be removed?
    And I was told that it is not good to remove plants unnecessarily as the act of uprooting plants will cause some base fertilizer to leak out to the water (therefore, algae bloom). So what is the correct way to remove them (fast growers)?

    6) Is it good to 'partition' the substrate with pieces of plastic so that plants, especially foreground/runners, will not over run each other (as done by some aquariums)?

    So sorry for the long list. Will greatly appreciate any help rendered.

    Selwyn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    1,229
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    38
    Country
    Singapore
    1a) Is it necessary to de-chlorinate the water?
    No, try not to add any chemical unless you cannot help it.

    A good practice for any new tank is to fill up the tank fully with water after laying the base (fert & gravel) and let it soak for about 5 days. This will "season" the base, preventing any nutrient spike that is common in new tank. Then, drain them completely. Fill the water again but half full to do planting, fill up after planting. You are ready for good start.

    2a) Is it necessary to do water change?
    Yes. Change 35% water once a week for the first month. Once every fortnightly after that. When the tank is seasoned (after 6~12 months) and if you are able to control the water condition, once a month is enough.

    2b) Is it good to add artificial bacterial like Serra's NitriVec
    ?
    Yes but not a must. You can always let the tank mature by itself.

    2c) Is it necessary to add trace elements at this point of time?
    Yes but half dose for the first two weeks as the plants are still adapting to the new environment. Or do full dose after the plant started to bring several new leafs.

    Base fert is a long term root fert. It has several functions and the objective is to promote healthy root growth.

    2d) Read that Amano used active carbon during the first week or so. But what is the function of that?
    Yes, it absorb nutrients, good and bad. However, you gain more because you can always top up good/desired nutrients back to the water. Having said that, it is not a must to have it if you started the tank correctly.

    3) Which is more important with regards to lighting? Watt per litre or kelvin?
    Both.

    4) I've been experiencing plants rotting by the end of the first week or so. Why is that so? Not enough light or fertilizer? Or has it got to do with the water condition? Any ways to rectify this
    ?
    They may be sensitive plants who do not like new water. Try again when the water is seasoned. Change water in less amount, say 25%.

    5) It is good to start the tank with some fast growing plants to absorb excess nutrients. So when should these plants be removed?
    Yes. They can be removed after about 2 months or when other plants which you wanted have started to grow. When removing the plants, do it slow, hold the stem just above the gravel, pull it very slowly - you will see the gravel/partly fert being moved up. There are 2 things you can do if you are worried:
    - when planting, don't plant the fast growers too deep
    - after removing the plants, vacuum that portion of gravel

    6) Is it good to 'partition' the substrate with pieces of plastic so that plants, especially foreground/runners, will not over run each other (as done by some aquariums)?
    It helps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    2,702
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Selwyn,

    In more than 30 years of keeping fish and growing aquatic plants, I have never used anti-chlorine or any sort of stuff to promote bacterial growth in the filter.

    Besides all those things that Freddy said, I will add one or 2 tips. After you have laid your base fertiliser, run your index finger along the inside of your tank on the front. This is so that after your pour in the gravel, the base fertiliser cannot be seen. Believe me, it looks better. Another important thing to remember is that before you add water, cover the gravel with a few sheets of newspapers. This is to prevent the water from your hose from churning the gravel. If you don't do this, your water will be very cloudy after your tank has been filled.

    Loh K L

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    67
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore

    Starting a planted tank

    Selwyn,

    I think, newspaper may be too "fragile" and break up during the filling process. Some of the ink may also dissolved into the water.

    I have tried this method and work well. ( Found this method in either AquaticQuotient.Com forums or Arofanatics.com ).

    1. Cut two side of a plastic bag, any type, such that it become like a plactic sheet. Place it on top of the gravel, centre of the tank. The plastic sheet should cover at least half of the tank width. eg. 1x1ft for 2 ft tank.

    2 Place a plate or any fllat hard object in the center of the plactic sheet. The plate should be smaller than the placstic sheet. eg 6" plate.

    3. If you use long hose to fill the tank, take a plastic bag, make some tiny holes then tie at the outlet and place it on the plate. Turn on the hose with low flow rate and start to fill. You can increase the flow rate when the plactic bag start to float, but not too strong, may burst the plastic bag. The plastic bag will float as you fill the water, which is normal. It actually help to reduce the water pressure to the gravel.

    Don't rush, else you may end up with cloudy water which may take days to clear then left with a layer of silk like material on top of your gravel and plants.

    4. If you fill by other method, eg using container, then pour gently on the surface of the plate.

    5. The water should flow from plate to plastic sheet then to the gravel.

    6. Remove the plate and plastic sheet once it is about 1/3 fill.

    Hope it is not too lengthy.


    Koh Heng.




    Quote Originally Posted by timebomb
    Selwyn,


    Another important thing to remember is that before you add water, cover the gravel with a few sheets of newspapers. This is to prevent the water from your hose from churning the gravel. If you don't do this, your water will be very cloudy after your tank has been filled.

    Loh K L

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    111
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Thanks guys. Anyway, i believe that after the first week or so, string (or some other) algae will start to form. So what should i do from there? I believe Amano would use Yamato shrimps at this point of time. But is there any other alternative? (Do more frequent water change?) :P

    Selwyn

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    4,088
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    No, it won't if you do the stuff correctly from the start. It requires a balance between the light, CO2 and nutrients. Having an iron rich substrate helps the plants a great deal and some mulm and peat at the very bottom layer of the substrate helps age the substrate. Personally, for newbies into the planted tank scene, I will recommend them to go with 1.5-2w/G of light or 2.5w/G at most. Pack the tank with as many plants as you can get in there. (Most folks plant too little..) Get the CO2 right if you are going the CO2 enriched tank way..(20-30ppm..error on the higher side of things.) Dose nutrients regularly to prevent things from running out and doing large water changes to prevent things from building up due to an overdose, organic interference and etc.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee :wink:

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    1,229
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    38
    Country
    Singapore
    Peter said it right.

    You do not need even any algae eaters if the setup is correct. My algae eaters had faded away though the years and I never need to replenish them to keep algae in check.

    With the right setup plus patient, everyone can have a algae-free nice tank.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    49
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)
    Country
    Singapore

    CO2 concentration

    Hi...


    I am a newbie in planted tank and really find this forum real useful. I guess I am learning from the mistakes people made...(that's why we learn history) and can't afford to make a major one.

    I was just wondering what's the optimum concentration of CO2 ...??in a 2ft tank and

    what's the kind of meter we shld use?

    Should we include any buffering system?? e.g. Quick Lime, agriculture lime )

    What's the recommended light hours? and dark hours? for a typical tank.

    Wht are the crucial minerals or elements needed in a planted tank?

    and any recommended brand?

    What are the water parameters we need to look out for?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    1,229
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    38
    Country
    Singapore

    Re: CO2 concentration

    Quote Originally Posted by jonpoh
    Hi...
    I was just wondering what's the optimum concentration of CO2 ...??in a 2ft tank and
    25~35ppm. Use KH and PH kits to determine that. If you have KH of say 2, then PH of 6.4 would be ideal.

    Addition of buffering is not required if CO2 injection method is good and if feeding is kept at minimum. For example, use solenoid valve for CO2, turn on 0.5 hr before light on and turn off 0.5 hr before light off. Measure KH & PH at middle of light on period and adjust the injection rate (bps) base at this time but change gradually.

    What's the recommended light hours? and dark hours? for a typical tank.
    8~9.5 hrs a day.

    What are the crucial minerals or elements needed in a planted tank?
    It's a long story and more or less an art than science. There are 2 main areas of focus - in substrate and water column.

    At the root zone, aquatic plant needs nearly the same minerals like house plants execpt a little less NPK.
    Water column should be less fertile. As the plants are submerged, there is osmosis action between the plant membrane and water. The idea is to keep the water fertiliser level a tick more concentrated than the water transported in the plant. In this way, the nutrient flow into the plant and not otherwise. Most algae feed on weak plants and not on the fertile water.

    and any recommended brand?
    Most brands work. You pay more for the product with better research (often better results) and marketing.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    49
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)
    Country
    Singapore

    re:

    Thanks Freddy.


    regards

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •