Suggestion for Aquascape

[RonWill]

Choy, I experimented with 4 stalks of aubertii, planted in a takeaway container and left this in a no-fuss tank, in natural ambient lighting.

Leaves were originally a darker green but as the plant adapted, and didn't die off, I was encouraged enough to plant them in their present tank and you're always welcomed to see how simple the setup is.

Freddy, I didn't do anything special for the Blyxa japonica and will post further updates as the setup matures.

[RonWill]

Choy,
I recall you took some nice pics of the 'aubertii tank' esp with the overhead flash source. You may not consider these good but any chance of a download for me as I'm keeping track of the tank's development.

Ok folks,
Through discussions with hobbyists in another forum, they pointed me to a product call "J. Arthur Bower's Aquatic Compost"* that can be considered, due to the lower nitrogen, in Diana Walstad-style low-maintenance setups. This will replace garden top soil and topped up with Lapis Lustre or 'Lonestar' gravel.

Thinking that a 6litre bag isn't much (heck, how big is a 2L soda bottle anyway), I instructed my wife to get 4 packets... which I later realized is almost 20kg worth (omigosh!!) and that's way more than I need!

Anyway, I'm hell-bent on going ahead with the setup and have uploaded the product's pics to the gallery for reference (Aquatic Compost Album) because I didn't find the necessary details at their compost page.

I'm going for a full-echinodorus setup (hence a rich substrate base) with the following;
Echinodorus 'Ozelot', 'A Flame', 'Rubin' (not Narrow), 'Oriental', grandiflorus, parviflorus 'Tropica', tenellus and E. uruguayensis. The foreground might be stuffed with some short Eleocharis sp. from Freddy.

The list looks familiar and I could have posted it in other threads... but I forgot which one Would appreciate further comments and layout suggestions.

* Usual disclaimers: No affiliation etc :wink:

[FC]

Ronnie,

I have no experience with this compost but based on the description, it seems to be suitable for planted tank. It is good to have a hobby buddy like you who never fail to try new things - we get to learn free lessons . Thanks.

[RonWill]

Freddy, others at AQ have tried it with reasonable results, so I'm not going into it blindly or as brave as you think I am :wink:

Forrest Gump once said, while reflecting on his life's journey, that "life is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna get".

We should never be afraid to try new things. It is that which enriches and adds new chapters to our lives.

That said, any idea how thick should I lay this 'aquatic soil'? Is 2inches too thick? I intend to lay another 2~3inches of Lonestar over it to prevent floating bits and pieces.

BTW, if you're game to experiment, swing by this Saturday and we can work on it.

[FC]

Forrest Gump once said, while reflecting on his life's journey, that "life is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna get"

More than agree.

That said, any idea how thick should I lay this 'aquatic soil'? Is 2inches too thick? I intend to lay another 2~3inches of Lonestar over it

You are about right. Remember to lay about 1 inch fresh gravel around the perimter of the tank's base to cover-up the compost and to prevent fertiliser leaking from the glass walls. I think the followings helps after you layed them:
1) fill the tank full with water - minimise disturbing the gravel
2) let it rest for 3~4 days
3) drain the water completely and refill
4) repeat step 2 & 3 once
5) the tank is ready for planting
6) for the first 2~3 weeks, change water at least once a week at 35% each time. After that, the substrate should stabilise.

I am invited... to the 24th floor fish shop - I am gamed.

[RonWill]

Freddy, why would I need to fill up and let rest for 3~4 days? What are we suppose to achieve? Would it be to...
let excess nutrient leach from the compost?
get rid of superfine suspended particles?
or...?

6) for the first 2~3 weeks, change water at least once a week at 35% each time. After that, the substrate should stabilise.

I expect non-filtered setup to take much longer in complete cycling, perhaps 2~3 months (especially when soil is involved) but how does the weekly water change help in this regard?

and yes... you're always welcomed to heat up the party! :wink:

[FC]

let excess nutrient leach from the compost?
get rid of superfine suspended particles?

If you continue further, I have no more show anymore you know :P . You said it all. It will also let the compost have a chance to be fully soak up prior to use.

The 2~3 week's of weekly 35% water change is to ensure no chance of fertilser leak build up while ensuring that the bacteria can start the cycle. After that the substrate will be stable. With that, algae attack will be kept at bay.

I thought about your tank's height which are less than 18 inch, I suggest that you lay 1~1.5 inch of the compost and lay over about 1.5~2 inch of fresh gravel. This will look better asthetically.

[ruyle]

Freddy wrote:

You are about right. Remember to lay about 1 inch fresh gravel around the perimter of the tank's base to cover-up the compost and to prevent fertiliser leaking from the glass walls.

Freddy, this comes as timely news as I'm about to set up a Walstad-style
aquarium this weekend. I've been soaking potting soil for over 6 weeks
now in rainwater and combing it of any coarse organics: bark, wood chips,
etc, and the above suggestion will be incorporated. I had a soil-based tank
before wherein I didn't soak the soil prior to using and left the layer exposed to the front glass. I had a continual battle with diatoms on the
front glass because of it. Thanks for the info!

Bill
farang9

[RonWill]

Hey Bill, I'm glad I won't be going at it alone... another sucker game to try "Walstad-style" on the other side of the big pond!

Please do document the startup and progress of the tank, as will I, and let's compare notes as we progress. Suspect we'll be contending with algae problems, as excess nutrients leach into the water column, but we shall remain optimistic, ya? :wink:

I wasn't able to commence on the said setup as there were too many guests/fellow-forumers around... perhaps I'll lay the aquatic compost/gravel tomorrow, let it soak and see if I work on it further (planting the echinodorus) this Saturday.

BTW, what's gonna be shoved into the substrate and have you settled for any particular 'theme'?

[ruyle]

Hi Ronnie,
Last week I had to help a friend with a brokedown pickup truck north of
town and didn't set up the tank. I had bought an All-Glass mini-bow 7
from a lady at work who was moving and didn't want it anymore. The base
the tank sets down into was cracked so I threw it away, anyhoo, the details: I have been soaking potting soil for several weeks and decanting
off the wood chips, floaties, etc, to where all that is left is the dirt and sand.
To this I mixed some Schultzes clay soil conditioner, about 1 part soil
conditioner to 3 parts soil. This was carefully laid down in the tank about 3/4 inch layer with a one inch margin (thanks, Freddy!) all the way around on the inside for the top layer: equal parts multipurpose sand (golden color, predominantly) crushed black lava rock (1/4inch granules and less) and clay soil conditioner at 1:1:1 ratio which gives it nice weight to hold the plants down when planting, and the crushed lava rock darkens it nicely--this was about an inch and a half layer, which I hope is adequate. Was going to add more but it started to thunder and lightning outside:-( I planted some aponos, crypts, a few foxtail (myrophyllum) anubias, rotala indica, and am
waiting for more plants I've gotten through Aquabid. Will take pics when it
is finally set up. How's your "Walstad" coming along?

Bill
farang9

ps lighting will just be a 13w cf kit from AH Supply using the Mirro reflector

[RonWill]

How's your "Walstad" coming along?

Hi Bill,
It sounds like an interesting mix of substrate you've got there!

Started on the first of the Walstad-tanks yesterday and since I wanted a constant method that can be replicated, Aquatic Compost (AC) was layered straight out of the bag.

Instead of a all-round gravel perimeter, the 'margin' was scraped at only 2 sides which are exposed to ambient lighting.

Added and sloped the gravel (highest in the rear right) and did some planting (went plant-shopping with Sia Meng at Teo's and I'll try to get help on the names later).

There are some initial pics uploaded to the Diana Walstad gallery folder.

Let me work on it and take more pics during the day...

[RonWill]

Bill,
Here's a brighter shot taken earlier today.

Not familiar with some of the plants used because the farm calls 'em 'weeds' and I'm guessing there is...

Ceratopteris thalictroides (water sprite)
Parrot feather? (Myriophyllum aquaticum - Green)

Hope someone else can ID the rest.

There's 2 little platies in there as mozzie controllers and will replace them with killies when the tank is cycled.

[ruyle]

Ronnie,
The tank looks great! So this tank will only have natural light? And no
filtration? It must be nice to get such plants at your local "plant farm."

Although I don't own any, I'm fond of the square-shaped tanks. Among
Dave Wood's considerable abilities is he makes most all of his own tanks!

If we haven't scared him off, maybe he can post his article of such somewhere in killies.com (first appeared in BKA's Killi-News).

My next project is to build a cube tank either a 14" cube or 16" cube, using
Dave's expert advice.

Regards,

Bill
farang9

[RonWill]

Bill, I'll be using the aquatic soil/gravel combo for a few tanks and this would be the first. The second will be a all-Echinodorus tank and hopefully, to get it done before the weekend. A third in the pipeline, might just be a fern/anubias tank. All of these will not be aerated, filtered, CO2 fertilized or has additional lighting (other than ambient lighting).

"It's a ridiculous idea", I was told but am still game to go with what I had originally planned. Growth-rate of the plants may not be at their best, or any bigger compared with high-light/co2 fert setups, but I'll gloat when there's a power outage

What we strive to achieve is balanced by what we are willing to provide. In the case of these Walstad-styled tanks, it's the maintenance time that appeals to me. I'm no longer willing to spend more time on planted setups, other than topping up, feeding the killies and appreciating them.

And of course I'm glad that there are friendly farms that allows me to exercise my whims... and doesn't cost an arm while I'm at it :wink: (at times, I wished they did provide shopping carts tho)

Square low tanks are quite fun to set up and fortunately, I have only 2 such tanks as it's quite easy to go overboard but for now, I'll leave tank-making out of my syllabus. Happy already if I could cut the d*mn glass straight and here's where I hope Dave will share his insight and experience, so I don't have to trash more glass pieces.

If we haven't scared him off, maybe he can post his article of such somewhere in killies.com (first appeared in BKA's Killi-News).

Most of us don't bite or suck blood, although we may appear overly friendly by the full moon ... that article may just soothe the savage beast!

While you work on the DIY tanks, do try to capture the stages. I'll bet it will be very satisfying to fill it up and not have it fall apart! :wink:

[RonWill]

Hi Bill (and those following the thread),

It seems like some of the plants are not adjusting well to being emersed, especially the Crinum thaianum (with the limpy yellowing leaves) but of course, the setup is still too new to be conclusive. The Cyperus helferi and Ceratopteris thalictroides seems to be doing ok tho. I'm experimenting with a small patch of emersed Marsilea hirsuta placed at the right end of the driftwood.


Somewhere in the middle of the half-submerged wood is a small clump of Hemianthus callitrichoides but I'm not sure if their roots will grip. Next to it on the right, is another unknown plant that supposedly came from Brazil. The leaves is '4-leaf clover-like' but has a long 'stem' and rhizome (anyone knows??).


A closer look at the Hemianthus callitrichoides and the unknown 'clover'.


I was checking on the 2 platies and realized I've forgotten all about the Aponogeton madagascariensis bulb. It's doing much better than I expected, especially when I've killed a good number of them. Curious as ever, I took a temp reading... and... (I don't believe it)... but it reads 25ºC Wow!! I should wish for more drizzily, windy days!


Will update when I see more plants die...

[ruyle]

Ronnie, you might want to try some water lilies, too I will try to find the
name of the 4-leaf clover plant. How about water shamrock? OK, I'll
look--it is an easily available plant over here. Bog plants for emersed,
aquatic plants submersed? Neanthe bella palms work great as an emersed
plant.

Regards,

Bill

[shortman]

Ronnie,

The Aponogeton madagascariensis should be fine at your temperature of 28dC in your place. The other time I observe your tank temperature to figure it how you can so successfully in the low maintainance tank.

I having it around temperature of 28-30 dC and is doing fine at my small 1 feet tank only trick is crystal clear water.

Best Regards