A forum user sent me the above through private message. Since it will take a while for me to type the answers, I thought I might as well post them here just in case another guy bugs me with the same questions tooHey Mr. Loh,
I really like how you have all those Nothos Rachovii's all in one tank. I'm curious though, aren't males aggressive to each other and do they fight a lot? Or is it that all the plants and surroundings in there provide shelters and protections from bullies? Do you breed these certain ones inside the tank or switch them to a breeding tank?
I don't know how my Notho Rachovii died, but I have a very healthy female still and I was wondering if I should continue the breed. I've been looking for that perfect killie that only I would have to spread arround but thats not possible, it'd be better to start off more simpler and then go on. I really like the N. eggersi 'kilimani' river. Also I think it is neat that Nothobranchius korthausae are shyer types and males rarely fight amongst each other. Anyways I really like that Nothobranchius Rachovii tank of yours and I wanted to achieve that myself so thats why all the questions.
Thanks,
The males of the N. rachovii can be quite aggressive towards each other. They bicker and fight among themselves but it's nothing serious. The key to tame aggression is to raise them together in one tank. I think this is how it works - The fish aren't territorial but if you keep a male alone in a tank, he starts to believe the tank is his territory and will become very aggressive to another male should you introduce one to his tank. Raised together, the fish share whatever territory there is and become less aggressive towards each other. Whatever aggression is left is used to fight for the right to the breeding bowl. I have one in the tank but it's hidden from view. The fish know it's there though. Here's a picture:
I collect the peat once every 2 weeks or so and usually, there are many eggs. Breeding them in such a setup has the advantage of having a bit of natural selection in process. The fish themselves select which is the best male to fertilise the eggs. Obviously, the strongest one gets that privilege all the time. I can't be sure but I think in nature, strongest also means most beautiful. In other words, I'm saying that the one with the brightest colours is also usually the biggest fella around. That helps to keep the defects due to inbreeding in check for a while. It won't be forever because the gene pool in our tanks is too small.
The N. rachovii's were my second group of Nothobranchius. My first experience with Nothos were the guentheri's. Honestly, I don't think rachovii's are more difficult than other species of Nothos. But then again, I have experience with only a few species so I can't be sure.
Often, as Killifish lovers, what we forget is that the ultimate goal is to have lots of them in a nice tank. To have lots, we have to breed them. Many are successful with the breeding but they have so many species of Killies they either have no time or no space to house them in nice tanks. Nothing is nicer than a well-planted tank. I'm kind of proud of my Notho rachovii tank because I think I have achieved what I set out to do, that is, to put many of them in a planted tank so that I can sit back and enjoy the fish.
I'm sure you can do it too.
Loh K L
Hello Loh
Can you supply a wide angle shot of your tank so we can get a better view of the layout? I'm very interested in this. I'm tired of scores of little tanks and want to reduce my fish numbers and only have 2 or 3 nice size (60-80L) planted tanks with some killies. My first love is annuals which generally don't do well in such setups but your post here has been very inspiring in this regards. I would really love more information!!!
Regards
Very well, Tyrone. I'm actually quite reluctant to show the forum a picture of the whole tank because I think they're get jealous when they see the number of Downoi's I have
The tank is 150 litres. I use only 2 tubes of 2 feet flourescents, each 18 W. I have one cooling fan blowing non-stop which keeps the temperature at around 27 degrees C. I have CO2 injection from a gas cylinder. I'm using an Eheim 2215 for filtration. I would prefer something smaller as a 2215 causes quite a turbulence in the water. Nothos prefer still water but my rachovii's are coping well with the strong current. However, if any of you have an Eheim 2213 and you're looking for a bigger Eheim, I wouldn't mind trading mine for yours.
I don't add any liquid fertiliser to the tank but there's a layer of laterite below the substrate. So far, most of the plants have been growing well but I have a lot of BBA on the rocks. Peter Gwee said we can get rid of the BBA by controlling the CO2 but I haven't figured out how. Planted tank enthusiasts usually won't put tubifex worms into their tank but I do that everyday as the rachovii's won't lay eggs without live food. I would give them baby brine shrimps but they're too small food for adult rachovii's.
There's one thing I do though which other hobbyists probably don't do as often - I change about one-third of the water twice a week. I add the new water straight from the taps. I change water often because the rate of evaporation is very high. I have to top up the tank frequently or the level of water will fall below the moss wall causing those at the top to dry up. Everytime I top up the tank, I change the water at the same time.
Loh K L
I am very impressed. I am, more than ever, determined to obtain a decent fish tank stand and some nice size tanks.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Such a beautiful tank, Loh K L! Hmm...stem plants in the foreground is not good! :P (according to Mr. Amano, in reference to my tank in the AGA contest). I personally like Downoi in the foreground though.
Deborah
Wow, this is a really nice setup!Originally Posted by timebomb
Very well, Tyrone. I'm actually quite reluctant to show the forum a picture of the whole tank because I think they're get jealous when they see the number of Downoi's I have
The tank is 150 litres. I use only 2 tubes of 2 feet flourescents, each 18 W. I have one cooling fan blowing non-stop which keeps the temperature at around 27 degrees C. I have CO2 injection from a gas cylinder. I'm using an Eheim 2215 for filtration. I would prefer something smaller as a 2215 causes quite a turbulence in the water. Nothos prefer still water but my rachovii's are coping well with the strong current. However, if any of you have an Eheim 2213 and you're looking for a bigger Eheim, I wouldn't mind trading mine for yours.
I don't add any liquid fertiliser to the tank but there's a layer of laterite below the substrate. So far, most of the plants have been growing well but I have a lot of BBA on the rocks. Peter Gwee said we can get rid of the BBA by controlling the CO2 but I haven't figured out how. Planted tank enthusiasts usually won't put tubifex worms into their tank but I do that everyday as the rachovii's won't lay eggs without live food. I would give them baby brine shrimps but they're too small food for adult rachovii's.
There's one thing I do though which other hobbyists probably don't do as often - I change about one-third of the water twice a week. I add the new water straight from the taps. I change water often because the rate of evaporation is very high. I have to top up the tank frequently or the level of water will fall below the moss wall causing those at the top to dry up. Everytime I top up the tank, I change the water at the same time.
Loh K L
Im so envious!
The moss wall really adds up to the beauty of this setup, not forgetting
the downois.
May i ask what moss are you using for your moss wall?
Deborah,Im so envious!
That darn moss wall has sent many hobbyists down the path of frustration, died and probably went to heaven a couple of times, and still cannot accomplish what Kwek Leong has done with seemingly effortless ease. (reason enough for me to go back to breeding than to grow moss
What I'm trying to say is; don't be envious, just enjoy his pics(I know I do)
Getting back to the spawing RACs, Kwek Leong, how do you clean up the peat that's thrown out of the breeding bowl? Do you leave it or vacuum the gravel later? What about other tankmates predating on the eggs?
I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee
Wow, KL, 36W in a 40 gallon tank? I'm just estimating the volume in gallons. And the tank looks at least 18 inches high--what a showpiece!
You certainly have a wet green thumb!I'm with Tyrone, I am inspired!
I agree with all you guys. Very lovely tank Mr. Loh. Taiwan moss is very easy to grow, but to that standard is pretty remarkable, and done with such ease too. Ron is right, just enjoy them, and try to accomplish what you can do on your own. Thanks for answering my question Mr. Loh, I'm sure I can do it too.
Dennis
Sure you can, Dennis. It isn't that hard really. The good thing about the hobby is that it isn't so easy that anyone can succeed but not so hard that you have to be a rocket scientist
You're close, Bill. The tank is 20 inches high. I don't think the tank is anything special (there are many which are much more beautiful) but if it inspires anyone, I'm delighted.
It's a Taiwan Moss wall, Pennylane. Dennis can tell you that the Taiwan is actually one of the easier mosses. If you can grow Java, Taiwan shouldn't be a problem at all.
You must show us your tank, Deborah. If Mr Amano commented on it, yours must be something special. I got a copy of the latest issue of TAG from Karen Randall the other day and I must say the photographs of the winning entries in the recent ADA planted tank competition are truly awesome. The one that won the grand prize is so beautiful I've been thinking about doing something similar. That would really be a dream tank.
Ronnie, very little peat comes out of the breeding bowl. The rachovii's can churn up quite a storm when they're mating but the peat moss I use is heavier than the ones sold in fish shops. When not in use, I keep my peat moss soggy wet. Kept in such conditions, they sink easily when put into water. As for egg predators, besides the rachovii's, there's a pair of Red Mollies and some Cherry Shrimps. As far as I know, they won't eat the eggs. In any case, the dominant male rachovii is always guarding the bowl. I believe he will chase intruders away.
Loh K L
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.or...=0&vol=1&id=57
That's my tank in the AGA. I'm proud of it, although it pales in comparison to the other entries. The comments were pretty tough, although I do agree that I have a bit of a jungle look/chaos going on in the back. The tank is being dramatically changed right now, so it won't be as chaotid. But, despite what Amano says, I'm not removing my Downoi from the foreground!My Downoi doesn't look as tidy as your though, either. Do you keep it trimmed? Mine kind of grows all willy nilly sideways, frontways, etc.
Deborah
A lovely tank. I take Mr. Amano's comments to imply that your foreground plants weren't "bushy" enough in that they left exposed areas of gravel that made them look sparse. I still think it is a lovely tank though.
Back to the rachovii, how many do you have in the tank? How many males to females? What is the surface area of the tank?
Thanks
Thank you, Tyrone - I agree, he didn't like to see the substrate poking through; I however, for some reason, like to see substrate (I like to see the shrimp and it is easier on substrate). However, for some reason, Amano dislikes any stem plants in the foreground -- he made that comment to anyone who had stem plants in the foreground. I don't really think of Downoi as a stem plant though, even though it is.
Sorry for the hijack: Back to our regularly scheduled thread.
The Rachovies do fine with the Mollies and especially, the shrimp???
Deborah
Deborah, if the rachovii is well feed your shrimp will be spare. Seen some picture of killie caught red handed (mouth full of cherry shrimp).
AAAcckkkkkkkkkkkkkkk nevermind! Don't think I'll try that combination!killie caught red handed (mouth full of cherry shrimp).
Deborah
I have 5 males and 6 females. The surface area of the tank is 20 inches by 24 inches.
Loh K L
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