400W MH lighting

**|squee|** · 10th Jan 2005, 17:04

Originally Posted by izzat

It seems that I must get a reactor to diffuse as much CO2 as possible...
How to I go about knowing that there is enough N and K?

I don't really like to depend on the testkits as they are quite unreliable

Check out the Estimative Index. It outlines a way to dose nutrients such that there's no need for test kits.

FC · 10th Jan 2005, 19:37

Originally Posted by izzat

It seems that I must get a reactor to diffuse as much CO2 as possible...
How to I go about knowing that there is enough N and K?
I don't really like to depend on the testkits as they are quite unreliable

Izzat,

4 w/gallon might seems alot for lighting. However, w/gallon widely discussed used florescent lamp as basis. MH light's production is not as efficient compare to flourescene in terms of lumens per watt. Therefore, you might be getting less than you thought.

If your ambient temperature is high (above 26 degree ceclius), the MH light might add considerable heat to your tank and may be the room too. You are likely require to invest in chiller. Other than this, plus points are everywhere. I like the ripple effect of the light.

Please use CO reactor, it would help alot. Get a good one or try DIY.

For learning stage, it is always good to have a few kits to appreciate what's going on there. Essential kits (in order of importance) are:
1) PH
2) KH
3) NO3
4) PO4
5) GH
6) Fe

After you had gone through months of testing, will you then, begin to master the art of water conditioning. You may skip this but you will be into guessing works and follow suggestions blindly. It may work with some luck though.

Have fun.

**keehoe** · 10th Jan 2005, 22:25

I remember seeing CO2 diffuser DIY plan with one meter length 5inches diameter tube with lots of bio ball. But frankly, i think 2 smaller CO2 diffuser is better than one. Problem is you will need more water pumb.

**wcknight** · 11th Jan 2005, 00:31

I like the natural way of preventing algea, with Plecos and other algae eater, Some like snails, but a few like mystery snails love to chew up your plants also, others multiply so fast that they look more like pest and eye sore. Plecos seem to leave the plants alone and they hide most times, but they can get huge esp in a big tank and if they are well fed.

Frequent water changes, fewer fish, and a lot of plants enough to absorb most of the organic matter, helps to cut down on algae also. Chemicals and scrubbing are a last resort for me anyway. Also UV as in a sterilizer can kill off the suspended algae.

Wes

**Shae** · 11th Jan 2005, 06:04

> MH light might add considerable heat to your tank

All MH lighting comes with cooling system of some sought biult into the ballast, it only becomes a hassle if you try to DIY a power supply for the bulbs themselves.

Shae

**izzat** · 11th Jan 2005, 18:50

Originally Posted by fc

You are likely require to invest in chiller. Other than this, plus points are everywhere.

Please use CO reactor, it would help alot. Get a good one or try DIY.

Hi Freddy,

I had just brought home the MH set. It was quite heavy as the dimension is 2ft by 1ft

I will try to find a 2nd hand chiller if possible as I wish to cut cost. I do not want to DIY a chiller as it might create a mess in my house and my parents will kill me :P If I can't find a 2nd hand chiller, have to go for the Resun brand.

Can you suggest what brand of Reactor is good? I see many types in LFS but do not know which one is the most reliable and effective? Do it mean that the more the bio-ball in the reactor, the more effective it is?

FC · 11th Jan 2005, 21:21

Izzat,

Try out the MH light first and see how it goes before deciding on chiller because the chiller will bring much heat to the room. You should at least have 1 to 2 pcs of 4" fan(s) blowing on the water surface, though.

What is the shape of the MH light? Rectangle or dome? Any PL light incoporated in it?

For long term use, it is worth the while to spend a little more for an external reactor (placed outside the tank, next to the filter's outlet). It is maintenance free (need not cleaning at all) and free the tank from unsightly equipment. There are 2 brands that I knew, Dupla and ? taiwanese brand. Get the Taiwanese which is cheaper and equally effective, available at Sam Yip for about $80 (could be cheaper now). If you wish to go for the cheapest, get the internal reactor, about $15. Get the simple dark green one, choose the long version. Remove the black bio balls, they are useless. Place it as deep into the tank as possible. As for me, I spent about $40 to make a external reactor out of water filter canister, very high capacity that can be use for very large tank.

**shortman** · 11th Jan 2005, 21:30

Originally Posted by izzat

I had just brought home the MH set. It was quite heavy as the dimension is 2ft by 1ft

It is heavy because of the build-in ballast if you don't like the weight you can invest on a controller gear. But you do need to get somebody that know how to remove the ballast and re-wire the controller gear.

I believe the MH fitting is for external or warehouse use.

Can you post a picture of it?

Thanks

**izzat** · 12th Jan 2005, 00:14

Freedy,

Do you think that a DIY external reactor is as good as or even better than the taiwanese brand? If it's better, I think a DIY would have me more money and be more efficient.

I will design a hood that I will ask the tankmaker to customised for me. It's a hood that I design myself and have lots of open spaces

Within the hood itself, there will be fan.

Kho,

I will post a picture later if I manage to take a picture of it. It does not have any PL lights. What does a controller gear actually work as?

FC · 12th Jan 2005, 22:49

Izzat,

MY DIY is definately better and better than any off-the-shelve CO2 reactor in the market. This is because it is a super large canister and the way the CO2 is injected into the canister and going through long way in the canister before going out. It can easily handle tank of up to 8 ft. However, cost effective-wise, for your tank, just take the taiwanese one as it has enough capacity to serve up to 4x2x2ft tank. Cost a little more but it is ready-to-use.

For MH light, it is not advisable to place it in hood. In the event when the fan fails, the heat may be able to kill the fishes and the plants, given enough time exposure.

**izzat** · 13th Jan 2005, 01:15

Kho,

These are the picture of the MH set.

Reflector and Bulb

Ballast cover

Freddy,

Below is a picture of a DIY reactor that I found on the net. It's parts are cheap and easily joined. Do you think it's going to be effective?

Neat design :P

**ruyle** · 13th Jan 2005, 01:26

Izzat, they are reportedly highly effective. What I see here is the Tom Barr
designed reactor which is quite cheap to make. I'm thinking of going to
CO2 on 2 of my tanks and this would be what I'd make for the CO2. Are
the parts easily acquired in SG?

**izzat** · 13th Jan 2005, 02:15

Originally Posted by farang

Izzat, they are reportedly highly effective. What I see here is the Tom Barr
designed reactor which is quite cheap to make. I'm thinking of going to
CO2 on 2 of my tanks and this would be what I'd make for the CO2. Are
the parts easily acquired in SG?

Hi Bill

If it's said to be effective, I will give this 1st DIY project a shot. The parts are quite easily available here I think

I will just have to give the hardware shop owner the material list and he will get for me the parts :P

I heard from Freddy that the bio-balls are not so useful. Is it true? If so, what can I replace the bio-ball with? And why do they put the bio-balls in the reactor that can be found in LFS which are ready made.

**ruyle** · 13th Jan 2005, 06:23

Izzat, Tom Barr's latest reactor is an internal one that costs $2-3USD to
build plus a powerhead. Check out http://www.BarrReport.com

You will need to enroll with username and password (free of charge unless
you want to spend $12.95 for exclusive offers) and then go to Newsletter
and there are pictures with instructions. There are no bioballs with this new
design, which is compact and unobtrusive.

HTH,

Bill

**ruyle** · 13th Jan 2005, 07:36

The reactor is now posted on the homepage of BarrReport.com.

**stormhawk** · 13th Jan 2005, 07:57

Neat reactor. Just took a look at the picture. Really simple design. I bet its real efficient too.

P.S. The discussions on the CO2 reactors should be in a separate thread. We're going offtopic here.

**ruyle** · 13th Jan 2005, 08:14

Jian Yang, is there a way you can scrape this off and start a CO2 reactor thread? Or injecting it in the DIY CO2 thread? Sorry for creating a hassle.

**shortman** · 13th Jan 2005, 10:01

Originally Posted by izzat

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...DIYreactor.jpg

For the above image please write and ask permission from the respective owner before post it here.

Thanks for the image of the MH and that instead a 400W MH. The ballast is in the housing and very heavy you will need a hanger as strong as mine in order to support the weight.