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Thread: 400W MH lighting

  1. #41
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    Izzat,

    Yes, the reactor will be an efficient one for sure. You must put the pieces together well to prevent leak. The bio balls are helpful in helping to "mix" the CO2, however, it adds to maintenance. You will not like to open it (you may not be able if you glue them) to clean it. Instead, simply increase the length of the tube.

    As Kho mentioned, remove the ballast (hot!) in the housing and place in the tank cabinet - but it must be well ventilated.

  2. #42
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    Hi Freddy,

    Ok then, maybe I will put a 2 or 3 small bio-balls. But why do I need to clean it up? I have not use a reactor before. So I have no first hand experience.

    I read from some website that it says that the most effective length that the CO2 diffuses is the 1st 6" and excess length will not be so useful. Is that so?

    As for the MH stand, the design will be somehow like what Kho had. But it will be made from Wood and that there will be fans too.

    Regards,
    Izzat

  3. #43
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    Intersting..that is actually my DIY reactor and plans
    Tony, did Erik Olsen get these plans from you? The one he's posted on the
    krib is nearly identical.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by izzat
    As for the MH stand, the design will be somehow like what Kho had. But it will be made from Wood and that there will be fans too.
    You might have to consider the overall weight added to the tank top and if the wood frame is rest on the edge of the glass then it is alot of load on the glass.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by izzat
    But why do I need to clean it up?
    I read from some website that it says that the most effective length that the CO2 diffuses is the 1st 6" and excess length will not be so useful. Is that so?
    The balls will get coated with waste/bacteria and may sink down or stuck in the middle, obstructing flow.
    The length of the reactor and its' effectiveness are dependance on the flow rate. The higher the flow rate, the longer the reactor needed.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortman
    You might have to consider the overall weight added to the tank top and if the wood frame is rest on the edge of the glass then it is alot of load on the glass.
    I will enquire from the carpenter first to see if he say that it will be fine. If not, I will have to find another method but do not wish to drill a hole on my ceiling

    Freddy,
    I think i will be making the length of the reactor to be about 10" which will be quite good for low or high flow rate. Is there anything esle that I can use to replace the bio-balls?
    Regards,
    Izzat

  7. #47
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    Tony, did Erik Olsen get these plans from you? The one he's posted on the
    krib is nearly identical.
    The plants are posted at APC. I sold a few reactors, but I don't think I sold to him.

    Can you link me to where it is on the Krib, I can't find it.


    (sorry for getting OT)

  8. #48
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    Can you link me to where it is on the Krib, I can't find it.
    OK, Tony here it is: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/reactor.html

    And click on "sketch"

    Just noticed I misspelled Erik's last name

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