CO2 indicator

[confusekid]

Hi fkkow (may I know your name?),

KH tester is often very reliable and the shelve life is long. Yes, your KH is zero. There is 2 way to increase KH safely:
1) add coral chips into filter media (use only half fistful, last for months) - prefered method for planted tank
2) add baking soda to the water - I do not like this method

Hi Freedy,
Can you explain why you don't like to use baking soda to raise the KH?? I know that both methods work(used both before) but using coral chip will be hard to control the final KH of the water, that's why i am using baking soda now.

Regards,
Jack

[FC]

Jack, Kow and Wes, welcome to Planted Tanks Forum!

Jack,
Like Wright explained, the use of coral chips provides both GH (in the form of Ca) and KH. This is particularly benificial for hobbyist living with very soft water.

You can contain the unduly rise of GH/KH by placing smaller coral qty in the filter media. For my 4x2x2 footer and eheim 2028, I use half-fistful which would faithfully give me equilibrium of 3~4 degree KH and 4~6 degree GH readings.

The reason that I do not like baking soda is because in long term use and couple with infrequent water change (I hardly change water), the sodium concentration will built up which plant does not consume. Besides, I was bored of the routine of adding the soda after water change - that half fistful of coral chips does the job automatically and last for months.

Kow,
KH is not a good way to buffer PH (as many thought) under CO2 injected environment. The key is to control the CO2 injection (the source of PH influence) method (like using solenoid) instead.
KH is required mainly for:
1) measurement of CO2 (require KH vs PH readings) purpose.
2) to raise the PH to suit certain fishes' habitat.

Wes,
Java Fern does well in both highlight and lowlight, the difference is the colour of the leafs are lighter/nicer under highlight. I am not good in fern but it seems to favour cool water (23~26 degree celcius).

Wright,
I suppose Cu is below acid level (I forgot the term) which implies it will not be impaired/dissolve under carbonate acid water.

[timebomb]

Pay the boss, took it back and incubated it... after 30hours nothing come out... Arghhh... must be dormant for some time la... Any thing to save it?

Kow, this happens often because the brine shrimp eggs sold in fish shops are not kept in proper conditions. If what you bought has been on a shelf for many months, chances are the eggs are spoiled. You can try what Jianyang said about decapsulating but frankly, I don't think it will work with dead eggs.

The best way for you to find good quality brine shrimp eggs would be to look for the Discus breeders living around your area. Discus breeders, like Killifish breeders buy their brine shrimp eggs in cans. You don't need a can so offer to buy just a small container from them.

Loh K L

[whuntley]

Wright,
I suppose Cu is below acid level (I forgot the term) which implies it will not be impaired/dissolve under carbonate acid water.

Heavy metals tend to be more soluble as the pH drops below 7. There may be minimal risk at 6.5, but I would be inclined to be suspicious of anything below 6 if metal is in contact with the tank water.

The metal only cares about the hydrogen ion concentration and it doesn't matter if it comes from injected CO2 or vinegar. That is, solubility increases strongly with lower pH regardless of what caused the pH to drop.

The basic moral to the story is: "Keep any metal except aluminum, titanium and stainless steel out of contact with the water if your pH is below neutral (7). Lead plant anchors seem to do the most damage.

Wright