You are right but I am right aswell
You see I dose KNO3 also which gives 0,792 ppm K daily additionally and this is where the rest of the K comes from, don't you worry I am pretty sure of my calculations.
Ah so... no wonder my calcs didn't match yours

My substrate base is forest soil the first 2cm (1 1/2/ year old Substrate) plus 2 handfulls of laterite in dust from a mine in Greece (laterite is within the soil so i reckon the conditions are pretty well anaerobic for iron to get chelated and assimilated. Still my dosing of additional iron the last 3 days has made some of the top leaves in plants to turn green again like new small growth in micranthem and lysimachia, plus the white curled leaves of stellata now start to be greenpinkish curled leaves so I prolly was lacking in fe also testing with the sera iron test there is a slight redening of the water much less than the chart but still it is an indication that iron is there, I think that an additional 1ml daily per seachem flourish iron dilution 1% iron gluconate in water brings the iron to the desired point more than that and I start seeing a small clouding of the water (green algae) by the way yesterday realised that even the film on the surface of the aquarium is green algae cause after wiping it from the empty part of the tank during the water change water with a napkin the napkin got colored green.
interesting... as I said before, I wouldn't have expected Fe shortages given your substrate, but hehe maybe you got some laterite high in Al and low in Fe... who knows? Anyway, if your plants are responding well, thats good. The curling leaves still could indicate some issues... however given that calcium is a non mobile nutrient, I wouldn't expect the curled leaves to "uncurl" better to check the new leaves to see if they still curl

I still insist that the flow in the tank is minimal, the CO2 split output is behind a plastic holding various ferns and is of no importance while the spraybar flow is not that much aswell, I will take this into consideration thou in my new big tank. My Kh is the Kh of the mains here I can overcome it's buffering capacity by simply keeping my CO2 high which I do, Ph in the morning is 7 which quite a lot, it is obvious anyway cause plants bubble like crazy.
again, without physically seeing your setup, its hard to comment... I'm just basing my statements on what you have mentioned... locally most of us use a flow rate of roughly 2-3 times our tank capacity. I was just trying to point our that higher flow rates COULD be detrimental.

As for stoping dosing everything I dont see the logic behind it, the only one I think I could stop dosing is KNO3 cause of the constantly existing 10ppm
I wish I could measure K so i know what is going on with it also I am going to measure with one of this marine tests the Ca content of the water.I will have a general analysis of the mains water here tommorow so I will keep you posted on the results from this measurments.
I recommended stopping everything because frankly I don't think its needed. Aside from K2SO4 which provides you the necessary K levels, most of the other nutrients aren't that critical at this stage... this is especially true if you are starting to get green water (mentioned in your later reply). and if your NO3 levels are constantly 10ppm, then you def shouldn't dose your KNO3...