Close-up photography & macro lens

[keehoe]

Hi Joanne,

Wow, nice fish. Can you give me...... give me........ some advice in photo taking. I got myself a second hand macro lens but doesn't know how to use it. Looks like i need a telescopic macro lens with magnifying capability.

Mod's Note:
I split this post from the GAR 'Lokoja' thread so that the topic discussion remains relevant. For further imput regarding lens selection and techniques (Choy & Benny, you guys reading this?), follow-up here. Ron

[joteo]

I almost missed this post.

But Kee Hoe, I thought you had a P&S camera?

What macro lens did you get?

I decided to invest in a proper macro lens because the reverse lens I used meant I had to get too close to the fish and that doesn't work for killies. Also, with a reverse lens, I found it hard to fit in the whole body of the fish. It was with this new macro lens that I shot the GARs.

I am so pleased with my macro lens. Check out some of the pictures I took of my father's betta:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y107/j...neous%20Betta/

Actually, I'm a real beginner in all of this. I'm sure there are others who can help you out more. But I'll try where I can....

joanne

[hwchoy]

Joanne, I guess you are not using a flash? You can consider adding an external flash to your gear in future. If you're using a Nikon such as a D70, it will even operate the flash remotely through the onboard flash acting as a remote trigger.

For me an external flash was more important than a macro lens. of course ideally I would go for a DSLR with proper macro lens, plus external flash. The best effect is achieved with one flash over head, and two slave flashes from the two diagonal fronts. Those who have seen Benny's set will know.

Nevertheless, a digicam with close-up filters, and good flash illumination will do well do. An external flash is important also because it gives the same temperature as natural daylight. On the other hand, you sometimes don't recognise your own fish because it may show colours and irridescence unseen under aquarium lights.

also the position of the top flash in relation to the fish is also important. it should ideally be slightly in front of the fish.

here's an example where the fish is not sufficiently lit from the front




here's an example (by Benny) where the fish is properly lit from top and front




here's an example where the subject is positioned such that top flash is more than adequate

[timebomb]

I'm no Benny, neither am I Choy Heng Wah. My photography skills are so limited I don't even understand terms like "shutter speed", "apeture" etc. My camera has a video function but I don't know how to use it. Just so you know how good I am with a camera before you take my advice

When I shoot pictures of my fish, I don't use flash because the flash bounces off the tank and mess up the picture. I always use the "close-up" mode and I position an Ikea reading light over the tank to light up the fish. My pictures are only so-so in quality but if you're not the fussy type, they will do just fine.

Loh K L

[hwchoy]

that's why you need an external flash

for non-flash illumination, do remember that the light affects the colour of the fish. if you know how to do custom white balance, you can get a white card (a special photo-nuts gear, basically a plastic card that is "Truly White") put it in the tank and use it to calibrate what is "truly white".

[stormhawk]

Not sure if my Nikon Coolpix 3100 can work with external flashes. Probably not. I think I need a better camera.

[timebomb]

Joanne,

Your father's Bettas are really lovely, especially the Half Moons. I kind of regret not taking up his offer when he asked me if I wanted a pair. Is it too late to change my mind now?

Loh K L

[hwchoy]

Not sure if my Nikon Coolpix 3100 can work with external flashes. Probably not. I think I need a better camera.

I think it doesn't have a hotshoe. you can still wire the flash to an external slave, but then there is no metering and exposure control. better spend your energy raising pretty fishes

[nonamethefish]

What I found(using a Nikon coolpix 775) is that I was unable to turn the flash off. What I do is try to get the camera to face either around 45 degrees from the tank hoping to have the flash bounce or pressed up and directly facing into the tank in hopes of firing the flash through so it does not bounce. I've also put several pieces of tissue paper over the flash to dim it. Helps taking pictures of those shy fish.

[promethean_spark]

I get adequate results without external flashes by simply taking the photos at an angle to the tank. That way there is no glare reflected back to the camera. I also use bright lights for growing plants to help out from the top.

[joteo]

Choy: I do have an external flash. I got it before the macro lens. The reverse macro didn't work for me because I could not get the whole body of the fish in the picture. I could do really close ups of parts of the fish. In fact, I have stacked a reverse lens on top of a zoom before and the results are amazing. I can see so much detail. I think it's a good solution if you have a dead fish and want to take pictures of it's disease. Or any object that doesn't move so much.

For those of you who do not want to spend too much money on a dedicated macro lens, the reverse lens is your best bet. But if you're not the patient type, you can forget it. This is because you need to use your body to physically move the lens and camera to focus. A lot of photos will be wasted. But as you get the hang of it, you'll get better.

You can see that for the picture of the eggs, I used a reverse lens and that works really well for things that don't move.

For those of you who cannot turn off the flash:
Use an old film canister from Fuji (it is translucent, the one from Kodak is black and is useless) and get a slave flash or two for about $15-20 each.

Cut the film canister so that it can clamp over your flash. Basically, the film canister diffuses the light over the camera flash and lessens the reflection on the tank.

Alternatively, you can paste a piece of white cardboard on your camera flash so that the cardboard points at 2 o'clock (the flash is 12 o'clock). Again, this blocks the main light from reflecting off the tank and bounces off the cardboard to create some light as well.

The flash on the camera will also activate the slave flashes.

When I took these pictures, I closed all the doors, lowered all the blinds. After the sweat session, I had to have a bath. I also do not have any aquarium lights on my fish tanks.

You can also use Kwek Leong's method of a desk lamp, but I think it only works in a small aquarium. The other method is to put many many lamps together over a big tank. Or get a bunch of 10 friends and borrow all their flashes.

I'm also practicing. I wish these ideas were original, but I picked them up as I was doing lots of research.

[joteo]

Joanne,

Your father's Bettas are really lovely, especially the Half Moons. I kind of regret not taking up his offer when he asked me if I wanted a pair. Is it too late to change my mind now?

Loh K L

I'm sure the offer still stands as long as there are fish alive.

In fact, after he saw the Nigrippinnis in a picture, he asked me why I turned it down earlier. We all change our minds. Hahah.

But my dad is out of town and won't be back till next week. I'll let him know then.

joanne

[stormhawk]

What I found(using a Nikon coolpix 775) is that I was unable to turn the flash off.

Joseph, you can't turn your camera's flash off but mine can. Only thing is, the camera works slower that way in macro mode.

I usually take the pictures at an angle like you do but the flash can really disturb images of those fishes that have alot of iridescence like Simp. magnificus. I gotta do something to disturb the flash.

Either that or I catch the fishes out, place them in a photo tank and use natural sunlight with my flash set to off and I get some pretty decent images. Doesn't work with all of the buggers though. Some of them go from real beautiful in their tank to ultra plain in the photo tank.

[Green Baron]

Kee Hoe,
What type of macro lens did you get ? Tell us the brand/model so that we can help you. For taking photo of fishes and aquatic plants, you should use either a 50mm or 100mm macro lens. You should also consider getting a good external flash if you don't already own one.

[Green Baron]

Hi Joanne,
Those photos would have been perfect if not for the dirts on the glass
You should take some time to clean the glass surface since you put in so much effort to take those photos !

I take lots of caterpillar photos so I can relate to the effort/sweat that goes into taking such photos.

[stormhawk]

If the glass is too dirty.. a little help from Photoshop to blur out those blemishes works too.

Gan, its understandable how difficult it is to photograph butterflies and caterpillar larva. My block currently overrun by several Lyssa zampa moths.

[RonWill]

I got myself a second hand macro lens but doesn't know how to use it. Looks like i need a telescopic macro lens with magnifying capability

Kee Hoe,
I'm using a simple P&S Canon PowerShot A85 and at macro mode, the minimum focussing distance is 5cm. While ok for taking picture of a whole fish, it's not good enough for smaller items like fry and eggs.

To achieve closer distance, larger image or higher magnification, specialized equipment like dedicated macro lens or macro bellow set (for 1:1 magnification ratio and higher) is used in conjunction with built-in ring flash or multiple off hot-shoe flashes.

In lieu of all those equipment, but at a compromise in quality, you can experiment with various magnifying objectives, held close to the camera's lense. Below are a few full-frame images of sturisoma eggs.

From Left to Right; at macro mode (5cm minimum), with hand held magnifier (those glass type with handle and metal/plastic frame) and with a loupe (10x, I think). The strip of grey is a shadow from the magnifier len's frame. (re-compose the image after focussing, so that lighted area is more even)



After cropping & resize of the last image, while details are not at it's best, is acceptable for general observation.


If egg development is not your area of interest, the best way I know to shoot fishes is in a smaller photo tank. Set your camera to macro with flash and angle the camera slightly downwards, to avoid direct reflection from the flash.

[Calvin]

Great. Learned a lot from experts about taking pictures today. hah hah.....

[keehoe]

Kee Hoe,
What type of macro lens did you get ? Tell us the brand/model so that we can help you. For taking photo of fishes and aquatic plants, you should use either a 50mm or 100mm macro lens. You should also consider getting a good external flash if you don't already own one.

Thanks Gan, Have been trying to find out what lens i bought. Anyway i realise certain setting of the lens required exact fit or the appropriate SLR camera.
With my panasonic, i can hardly see anything when i reduce the shuttle opening for additional magnification effect.

The lens that i bought have label: "1:4.5 f=100~200mm" don't really know what it means.

I guess i will have to save up for a D70 and putup with my panasonic lumix fx7 which is a fine camera for general purpose. I just foundout that i can kind of do manual focusing with this camera. Another neat feature i had just found out.

[hwchoy]

Thanks Gan, Have been trying to find out what lens i bought. Anyway i realise certain setting of the lens required exact fit or the appropriate SLR camera.
With my panasonic, i can hardly see anything when i reduce the shuttle opening for additional magnification effect.

The lens that i bought have label: "1:4.5 f=100~200mm" don't really know what it means.

I guess i will have to save up for a D70 and putup with my panasonic lumix fx7 which is a fine camera for general purpose. I just foundout that i can kind of do manual focusing with this camera. Another neat feature i had just found out.

how do you use this lens on a lumix? that's a digicam right?

anyway important to find out what lens it is (brand) and mount-type (e.g. Canon EF, EF-S or Nikon D mount etc). the numbers simply means the zoom lens (it is a zoom because the focal length varies between 100 to 200mm) has a constant aperture of f4.5.