green spots

[FC]

... just add anti chlorine, without any trace element and liquid fert. Thereafter, I off all the light & inject CO2.
I plan to reduce my lighting period from 10 to 6 hrs and the lighting from 3w/g to a lower level...

You should not inject CO2 during blackout. Somone (I think Tom Barr) suggested adding KNO3 (about 10ppm) will help too. Blackout is very effective but you have to do it for 3 days.
Timebomb is very good removing algae, he uses black molies. And it works. They do not eat the mosses too.

I guess your setup is new, how old is it?
For new setup, it is a good practice to start slow. Shorter light period, 6 hrs. Then, increase 0.5 hr a week till you reach 8 hrs. After your tank had stable down and you gained confidence, increase it slowly to 10 hrs.

[timebomb]

Chuah,

I'm not sure of the Flying Fox but SAEs and Yamato shrimps eat mosses. They don't eat the old leaves but they will chew off new growth. To eradicate Hair algae, use Black Mollies. They're one of the most useful fish around. Besides Hair algae, they also eat Black Brush but only the new growth. Black Mollies are also very good for clearing surface scum. It's incredible what they can do to clean up the tank.

If you can't find Black Mollies around your area, fish like Platies, Guppies and Barbs are also good for getting rid of Hair algae. But I personally prefer Black Mollies because they're kind of cute.

Loh K L

[PeterGwee]

Hi Freddy,

Thanks for the good advise. Currently I have the KH & PH Test kit, will buy the PO4 test kit to find out the level of PO4.

I detected many matted hair algae on my weeping moss since monday. Last night I carry out 100% water change and just add anti chlorine, without any trace element and liquid fert. Thereafter, I off all the light & inject CO2.

I plan to reduce my lighting period from 10 to 6 hrs and the lighting from 3w/g to a lower level (Follow the instruction posted in other thread)

Is it good enough to remove the hair algae? Currently, I only have 1 oto in my 4ft tank as I hv taken out the SAEs and Yamato shrimps. I intend to put in Flying fox to get rid of the hair algae but dunno whether they are moss eater or not.

Sigh.......

The length of the photoperiod is fine, you don't need to lower it (Doesn't help with the algae.). If you want, you can lower the intensity as long as the light is well spread out. (lower intensity helps because the nutrient and CO2 demands are lowered...not because you limit algae. It doesn't matter if you have good nutrients and high CO2. It just makes it more robust and gives you more room for error in case you forgot to dose.)

Focusing on what grows plants is what you really seek to do. Stopping or lowering the nutrient dosing is not going to help them but weaken them. You cannot never limit algae! Work on the N, P, K, GH, traces and CO2 (biggest nutrient) and go in to attack the algae via manual removal. Trim off plants that are infected (don't wait...a minor infection is easier to clear than a major one). Always do a large water change (50-80%) after you work on the tank.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[Chuah CS]

Hi guys,

The algae still exists after my first action.

Will try out the method suggested and let you all know the outcome.
Really appreciate your advise.

Thank you.

[hammy]

I reckon spot algae isn't as hard to get rid of as compared to Stag Horn. What about the latter? Is there anything I can do about it?