Variant on technique to attach Moss Wall to tank.

[Jane of Upton]

Hello,

I recently read a variant technique on creating a Moss Wall.

I have been looking for similar materials as outlined in the orginal How To Create A Moss Wall guide. I was unable to find a fine, flexible grid material that is folded to become the front and back layers of the wall. However, one product I found that seemed promising, but was a bit different, was a "Cross-Stitch Grid" from an Arts & Crafts store. It is a fairly rigid grid of plastic, for people who do the sewing craft of "Cross-Stitch" to use, around which thick thread or yarn is put into patterns to create a picture. It measures approximately 8"x16" (or 20.3 x 40.6 cm)

Anhow, it seemed promising, but I hesitated because I wasn't sure if it would work with the suction cups to attach the finished Moss Wall structure to the back wall of the tank. I didn't know if the rigid mesh would affix to the suction cups the way the flexible mesh fabric had in the How-To guide.

Then I read about someone who used this same rigid grid, and used silicone to attach and encase a magnet to the corners of the grid! The silicone is then allowed to cure/dry completely, so the magnet is both attached to the grid, and protected from the water (and vice versa). The second layer of grid is placed over the first (with the moss between), with the corners of it cut out so that it will not interfere with the magnets, and allow the two grids to fit together closely. Nylon filament is used to tie the front and back grids together (with the moss sandwiched between), then it is affixed snug to the back wall of the aquarium with a corresponding magnet on the outside of the tank. One outside magnet for each mesh/encased magnet.

This method of using magnets to affix a more rigid mesh material to the back glass seems to keep the wall structure very snug against the back wall.

I thought it was an interesting variation!
-Jane

[RonWill]

Jane.
I'm a true blue DIYer and am sure that cross-stitch mesh will work (it also comes in different grid sizez to accomodate thicker yarns).

As I see it, the only problem is the magnet. Unless it is epoxy coated, rust will set in fairly quickly.

To keep the 2 mesh together, a quick method is with thin cable-ties. Fishing line is cheap but mist often to prevent moss drying out.

Cable-ties secured to suction cups will, IMHO, do a better job than magnets (even if you have a glob of aquarium silicon over it).

[timebomb]

Jane,

I've seen pictures of the technique you described. I can't remember where I saw them though.

Using magnets to hold the wall in place is a clever idea but I think there will always be a gap between the wall and the glass. And no matter how small the gap is, fish will try to swim their way through. Often, they get stuck and die.

These days, I no longer try to fix the wall close to the glass. I simply hang it by putting suction cups only along the top of the mesh. This way, the gap is quite wide and fish that swim inside the gap can find their way out easily.

Besides cross-stitch grid, you can also use undergravel filter plates as a moss wall. In fact, many hobbyists claim this is the best method because the moss isn't sandwiched but exposed. They say the moss wall takes off faster this way. If you can't figure out how it works, let me know and I'll try and get some pictures.

Loh K L

[FC]

Dear Jane,

I used to have a Narrow Java Fern wall and there are lots of unfilled grit. Like what KL mentioned, fishes seems like to be netted and swim through it. I have one SAE casualty as a result. It feels horrible when I have to pull the fish out of it with my fingers.

[Jane of Upton]

Ooooh, I really want to avoid having fish die behind the moss wall! That sounds awful to have to retrieve a body from back behind the moss wall.

I never thought to keep it away, or a distance out from the wall. That makes sense. I am thinking I will do like you suggested and leave the bottom edge loose (assuming I use the stiff cross-stitch grid) so that no fish or shrimp would be caught permanently behind it. I like that idea. Also, I'd wondered about significant mulm accumulating behind the moss wall when both bottom and top edges were attached, and I wondered if it was better for the moss to have the mulm there, or worse. The fact that you mentioned folks who use the undergravel filter plates as their grid report good results points to circulation around the moss being beneficial.

I really like all the DIY commentary I find on these forums!
-Jane

[FC]

Hi Jane,

See below for my first moss wall:

If you look closer, it is not a full wall but a triangle one. I happened to have that much of the plastic mesh :P .
The moss wall possesses less risk of fish being entangled when compared to narrow java fern wall. Reason being that the mosses can be used to fill the blanks easier than java fern.

Need not be concerned about the debris build up. All healthy growing plants have the natural ability to keep themselve clean on leafs where the light shine on. Mosses are no exception even though the fine furry leafs seem like debris magnets. However, within and behind the mesh, mulm will accumulate but I do not think that it will be excessive/visible.