Need some advice on Lightings ?

[V551]

Hi, I'm a new member (Jon) from Singapore. Been reading about moss that can be kept in low light. I have a 4 x 2 x 2 feet tank.(non-planted tank located in an air condition room). Recently i added some Java and Taiwan moss, hoping to beautify the tank a little.

Q1) But I am unsure whether my light is sufficient ? (no plan for Co2) , i only have a 4 feet light set with 3 feet tubes 1 x Arcadia Freshwater 7500k and a slyvania 10000k.

Q2) I've no other plans for other moss or plants, except maybe stringy moss if I could get them (or only if above set up is adequate).

Q3) I am considering to buy another set of lights set similar as above or shall I go for T5 (those at Na)? or my current set of light is ample enough ?

need advice......thanks in advance

[FC]

Hi Jon,

Welcome here!

I used to have the same tank (size) like you have. The lighting intensity depends on what you want to acheive.
- if you want just keep some low volume of mosses, 72~144 watts of FL flourescence light would be enough.
- if you want to have lush grow of mosses and other plants, 144~216 watts of FL flourescence light would be needed.

FL / T8:
In my experiences and observations, among all flourescence light tubes, FL (T8 ) still provide the best light quality, efficiency (highest lumens per watt) and cost effectiveness (the cheapest form).

T5 or PL compact:
The only advantage or reason why one should choose them is space saving. It allows hobbyists to put more tubes with given precious tank top space, good for high light tank only.

For your 4x2x2 footer, the tank top space can easy accomodate 4 x 36 watts. See below pic for the cheap and good "coffee shop" lights 4 x 36 watts.

[V551]

Hi Freddy(i presume this your name from your signature), thank you so much for your valuable advice. I'd decided to get those 3 x 4ft T5 tubes with 2 switches (it helps me to conclude when you mention rgd the space saving cus my current Fl is 3 feet tubes, 2 x 30watts only) ....

maybe I can start with the lower watts then increase the watts as per your advice if I decide to have more moss later.

one last question , u mention 144 to 216 watts if decide to more lush moss, it is ok for a non-Co2 tank ? thanks Jon

[fish newb]

Looks nice. I can send you some stringy moss. Let me know how much you're looking for, we can work out a good deal .

I'll probably be here tomorrow, So I should be able to answer PMs pretty quick untill the 11th-16th since I'll be away.

Good luck with the tank, The size is awesome!

-Andrew

[FC]

Hi Freddy(i presume this your name from your signature) . . .
one last question , u mention 144 to 216 watts if decide to more lush moss, it is ok for a non-Co2 tank ? thanks Jon

You are right, my name is Freddy.
The light intensity requirement for plants is independent (no direct relation) to introduction of CO2 or not. Having said that, higher light intensity drive the plants harder and thereby encourage it to grow stouter/faster. Under such condition and growth rate, the plants will inevitably be hungrier for nutrients and CO2 happened to position itself as the most wanted since all life forms made mainly of carbon. So, when the CO2 in the water column run out (and not replenished at the rate the plants are consuming), the plants will soon be stunted. When that happens and nothing is done about it (CO2 inject is the only viable way, fishes are not the dependable source), the plants will weaken over the weeks.
It is like someone pushing you to run harder but not giving you engergy drink proportionally and on time.
In a nutshell, stay low wattage if you choose non-CO2 (take it easy) way.

[V551]

You are right, my name is Freddy.
The light intensity requirement for plants is independent (no direct relation) to introduction of CO2 or not. Having said that, higher light intensity drive the plants harder and thereby encourage it to grow stouter/faster. Under such condition and growth rate, the plants will inevitably be hungrier for nutrients and CO2 happened to position itself as the most wanted since all life forms made mainly of carbon. So, when the CO2 in the water column run out (and not replenished at the rate the plants are consuming), the plants will soon be stunted. When that happens and nothing is done about it (CO2 inject is the only viable way, fishes are not the dependable source), the plants will weaken over the weeks.
It is like someone pushing you to run harder but not giving you engergy drink proportionally and on time.
In a nutshell, stay low wattage if you choose non-CO2 (take it easy) way.

Thanks Freddy, your explanation really enLighten me....being a newbie in plant (or just moss) despite reading the forum and google, still didn't quite understand(confuse) the low light and high light thingy. truly appreciate the effort to explain in a "layman" way to me, my puzzle is solve , I 'understood' now.

[FC]

I'd decided to get those 3 x 4ft T5 tubes with 2 switches
maybe I can start with the lower watts then increase the watts as per your advice if I decide to have more moss later.

That is a good decision too.
May I know how the 2 switches work? I assumed that 1 switch control 1 lamp and the other switch control the remianing 2 lamps.
May I know how many watts per lamp?
And what is the light output per lamp?
Branded lamps often have printed label that show xx wattage and xxxx lumens, and also the colour in xxxx K.

[V551]

I'd decided to get those 3 x 4ft T5 tubes with 2 switches
maybe I can start with the lower watts then increase the watts as per your advice if I decide to have more moss later.

That is a good decision too.
May I know how the 2 switches work? I assumed that 1 switch control 1 lamp and the other switch control the remianing 2 lamps.
May I know how many watts per lamp?
And what is the light output per lamp?
Branded lamps often have printed label that show xx wattage and xxxx lumens, and also the colour in xxxx K.

Hello Freddy, the T5 set is made in china sold by Nature aquarium.
1 switch = 2 x 54watts 8000k(china tube come with the set) and the other 1 switch (this one i changed to Osram 6000k+?(daylight 54watts).

the other existing set is 2 x 30 watts (3 feet tube) = 1 x arcadia 7500k freshwater and 1 x sylvania 10000k.....

any comment or advice?....looking forward to hear from u.

(Ps. my tank comes with a bottom sump (4 x 2 x 1&1/2 feet exactly), thus my upper tank 4feet + 1&1/2 inch in width and length, but height 2 feet)

[FC]

I have no comment. Actually not. If you wish to cater for future higher light option, get the 4 x 55watts one.

[ballsmyberries]

t5Ho is brighter, i assume...

does the WPG works on the same concept with these t5HO? for a 2 ft x 1 ft x 1 ft, does the WPG is equivalent to PL and T5HO bulbs?

if not, for T5HO, what watt is sufficient for it?

[FC]

Dear "straightsix" (I hope to know your name or nickname),

I would appreciate also if you could make an effort to write normally, putting big capital letter when needed. We encourage all here to do so.

As mentioned, in terms of lumens (light output) per watt (power consumption), the conventional T8 yields the best. For example, 36 watts of T8 give give between 2800~3300 lumens (depend on light quality it is built for). A compact PL gives about 2300 lumens for the same 36 watts. And I think similar goes for the T5.

In terms of intensity (lumens per sq inch of tube surface) compact and T5 are stronger and therefore able to penetrate the water slightly better.

As of WPG, if you want a precise answer, it depends not on the wattage (though it is a good rough gauge) but on a few factors that include:
1) the light quality the tube produces
2) the efficiency of the tube
3) the tank overall size and water volume
4) the water depth
5) the clarity of the water
6) the plant you keep
7) etc.

Most people give up on the above and so WPG is widely use as very rough estimate.

[ballsmyberries]

Thousand apologies. I've already set my name in my profile. Sorry for the inconvenience cause.

Thanks for the note.

[FC]

Hi Jason,

Thank you for being positive about my remarks. I hope to see you more often here.

With regards to the light, if you do not have deep tank (60cm or more in height) and has no plan for high light, T8 is the best especially those 4 ft ones because:
1) You have lots of choices for the lamp, I mean lots of brands sell such lamp with various light quality/colour and uses. You do not enjoy these with compact light or T5.
2) It is energy efficient.
3) The light output is not so intense. It will light up the tank more uniformly and naturally.

If you can squeeze enough T8 to give you between 0.6 to 1.0 watt per litre, you can already support growth of at least 80% plant types.