Chiller confusion..

[grey_fox]

I need some advise & help. I intend to hook up the chiller (Resun CL650) however need further advise on how I can further improve the flow, etc. With the hot and dry season coming in (currently tank @ 28.2 degrees without means of fan or chiller and 27.3 - 27.5 by means of a fan) I would want to keep the temperature about 26.5-27.0, as I do not want the taiwan moss in my tank to 'burn'.

Now this is my current setup

2 x 2028 Eheims
- 1 x hooked up to a external CO2 reactor
- 1 x hooked up normally

Here are my questions.

1. Should I use the normally hooked up 2028 as a pre-filter, would the flowrate be strong enough?

2. I have a 2,000L/hr internal powerhead (think too strong?) should I hook this up instead, problem is that there will be no pre-filter.

3. Should I move the CO2 reactor and then have the following layout(s) instead?

inlet >> eheim >> external CO2 reactor >> chiller >> tank (too slow flowrate at the end?)

or

powerhead inlet >> chiller >> external CO2 reactor >> tank (too powerful since powerhead is 2,000L/hr?)

or

inlet >> eheim >> chiller >> tank (any feedback for this?)

4. For the chiller output, should I have it as a spray bar or can I use a simple "U" tube and have the water dispersed from there?

Currently I am using a "U" tube on the Eheim that is hooked up normally to disperse the water back in the tank, the other Eheim that is hooked with a CO2 reactor has a slightly modified (long version) of a spray bar at the bottom-back of the tank.

Having a spray bar will have the water cooled and chilled more effectively or is this just a myth?

I will be getting a thermostat for the chiller but need advise on how I am supposed to hook it up.

[BFG]

Here's what I think.

2xInlet--2x2028--co2 reactor--chiller--2xoutlet.

This setup only require you to change the hose going into the co2 reactor. I do not know if the external co2 reactor may accomodate the extra flow coming from 2x2028 but it's worth a try. The 2 outlet in theory should help to disperse the cold water from the chiller effectively rather than a single outlet. It would lessen your job to spend some cash and time to modify this setup. You only require a Y tube for this modification. Quite simple. Nothing else need to be changed. 26 degree is just fine.

Hope this helps!

[grey_fox]

Will this actually work, I am just only afraid that the output from the CO2 reactor won't be able to take the 'stress' from both the output flow from 2 x 2028 (wouldn't want to end up with a busted hose + a half emptied tank + wet floor).

However should this setup work, then I will only need to get 2 x Y connectors and also minimise my workload as you mentioned.

By the way, has anyone tried the method that BFG has mentioned?

[ranmasatome]

i would just use the other filter for the chiller and use a lillypipe for output. The reason being that should anything happen to the chiller.. i would only have to dis-able one filter...likewise if something should happen to my co2.. i would also have to only disable one filter. This set-up always leaves me at least one filter running the tank which i feel is safer.
Moreover, i feel that the chiller may slow down your flow rate.. so you dont really want both filters to be slowed.

[grey_fox]

The lilypipe for Eheim can be purchased from NA? Which would be more efficient, a lily pipe or a spray bar located at the bottom of the tank or would it be better placed vertically?

[mordrake]

why use the internal pump since it'll generate heat and be unsightly.
best to get an external pump.

prefiltered inlet -> external pump -> chiller -> co2 reactor -> outlet via rainbar

1 x 2028, filtered to act as biofilter
1 x 2028 attached to surface skimmer

[BFG]

I would vote for the rainbar as yours is a 5ft tank. The rainbar is to be mounted vertically. For the setup that I've suggested, you could still have 1 filter running when you need to do a filter maintenance for the other filter. The flowrate would be lessen due to only 1 filter running and the added bonus of the tank being cooled by the chiller. If you have 2 filter but only 1 of them connected to the chiller, you have a few disadvantage.

A) If you need to do filter maintenance for the filter connected to the chiller, the chiller will be offline and worst, the tank water temperature will rise.

B) The flowrate of the single filter is not adequate for the chiller optimum performance and thus the chiller would be activated longer than if it had adequate flowrate.

C) The 2 filter flowrate combined is at least better than a single filter flowrate. For eg, if a chiller need 2000lt/hr flowrate for optimum performance, 2x2028 would produce 2x600lt/hr which is better than a single 2028 600lt/hr.

D) The chiller would be kept in operation even though 1 of the filter is taken offline. Even if 1 of the filter is being taken offline for a longer period, the water is being cooled thanks to the other filter which is still in operation. Water temperature would be kept at the tempearture setting and it won't rise too much as the remaining filter will continue to provide water flow into the chiller.

Hope this helps!

[grey_fox]

why use the internal pump since it'll generate heat and be unsightly.
best to get an external pump.

prefiltered inlet -> external pump -> chiller -> co2 reactor -> outlet via rainbar

1 x 2028, filtered to act as biofilter
1 x 2028 attached to surface skimmer

External pump as in those Eheim ones? For a pre-filter, can those sponge filters be used?

As a rought estimate, what would be the optimum flowrate pump I will need to get? 1,200L/hr for a 5 footer? Would that suffice?

[BFG]

An external pump is better but until you have the budget, use what you have 1st. If you can get an external pump, get one which has a flowrate which is as close as what the chiller required. The setup should be as follow-

Inlet--external pump--external co2 reactor--chiller--output

If you were to use this setup, your 2x2028 should be connected as normal. When filter maintenance is needed, the co2 supply and the chilled water will not be cut off or the flowrate reduced. You may or may not need a prefiltered inlet for this setup but having 1 is better than nothing. The reason the co2 reactor is before the chiller is to ensure that the long distance would help to absorb any remaining co2 into the water and also the shorter journey from the chiller to the outlet would prevent against any increase in temperature due to the ambience temperature of the cabinet.

Hope this helps!

[grey_fox]

Erm, budget is not an issue actually. I got the chiller at a 2nd hand pricing. So more or less I guess would a 1,200-1,600L/hour do good enough?

I will use a sponge pre-filter I guess.

So the rain bar should be placed vertically still? Does it have to be angled at 45 degrees of face any certain direction?

[BFG]

I was told that a 2000lt/hr external pump is ideal for a CL650 chiller. I am getting the same chiller too but for a 4ft marine tank. As for the rainbar, it is ideal imo to mount it vertically to spread the chilled water. The 2 filter output need not use the rainbar as it has a lesser flowrate compared to the external pump you would be using. The rainbar would help to diffuse the high flowrate of the external pump. If the flowrate is quite strong after using a rainbar, you could add another rainbar to reduce the flowrate by splitting the output hose into 2 and attaching each rainbar at each end.

[mordrake]

i'd recommend aquabee3000.
at 3000l/h (45W) works really well.
i'm using it for my cl450 chiller.

alternatively, get the aquamedic oceanrunner 3500. (3500l/h 65W)

good pt after placing the chiller after the reactor

[grey_fox]

How much is a AquaBee 3000 compared to a Eheim 1260 (2,400L/hr)

[mordrake]

think the aquabee is cheaper by 10-20 bucks... really reliable pump that many reefers use.
also, it's 45W compared to 1260 (65W)

price indication here

http://www.reefdepot.com.sg/Products...29&BrandID=All

[grey_fox]

OK,

I've invested in a Eheim 1260 pump. This is my current layout.

Inlet > Eheim 1260 > chiller > external CO2 reactor > spray bar

The chiller took about 30 minutes to bring the temperature down from 28.1 to 27.0 (set temperature) degrees.

[BFG]

er, external co2 reactor before chiller.

[grey_fox]

Oh $*#$... would it matter or would it still work? Actually if its before or after the chiller, how would it affect overall (would like to understand more so I can convince myself to dismantle the pipings...) I'd hate to dismantle the pipings and have water splash all over...

[grey_fox]

One more question.

The digital thermometer on my tank shows 1 degree lower than the chiller, for example, I set the chiller to cut off at 27 degrees (which it did) but the digital thermometer in the tank shows 26 degrees.

..now, which should I trust?

[zenscape]

My digital themometer is also 1 degree lower than my chiller external thermometer and I thrust my chiller thermometer more. The chiller external thermometer is an add on modification and i feel it is rather more accurate and sensitive to measure tank water temperature. What is the brand of your digital thermometer?? It may depend on the location of the thermometer being placed- top or bottom? And also whether there is enough circulation to even out the temperature of the water in the tank.

By the way, greyfox, after you added on the pump, does it improve the speed of chilling and off period?

[mordrake]

One more question.

The digital thermometer on my tank shows 1 degree lower than the chiller, for example, I set the chiller to cut off at 27 degrees (which it did) but the digital thermometer in the tank shows 26 degrees.

..now, which should I trust?

normal ... the water into the chiller is after the pump... heat from pump probably up the temp 1C.
if it bothers you, the differential can be adjusted on the chiller... forgot what's it called.
for resun, just press the +- button until you see C0 flashing on the panel.
then adjust differential +- xC i.e if tank is 26 & chiller thermo 27, adjust -1C.