Do you intend to connect them in series or in parallel?
Think the life span of the first chiller would be affected if it is in series.
The heat generated would also be a concern.
Hi friends,
due to tight space constraints, the only chiller I can fit is the Resun CL-280. My tank is 375litres (100 gallons). Combined the chillers should be able to handle or not?
Any issues with 2 chillers instead of 1 larger one?
At a combined 1/5hp using 520W, it will be cheaper to run than the 600W for 1/4hp that the Resun CL-600 offers I guess.
Please give me your advice urgently... many thanks!
Do you intend to connect them in series or in parallel?
Think the life span of the first chiller would be affected if it is in series.
The heat generated would also be a concern.
Last edited by bossteck; 4th Jan 2009 at 18:10.
- eric
I actually just bought them both.
They are connected separately, running off two separate powerheads. The supplier said no issue running two and they are sufficient for my tank volume.
So you have already hooked them up? Just curious, do they both kick in together?
- eric
What is your target temperature for your tank water? anything around 25 - 27C should be no problem most likely.
You can't really directly compare the wattage of 2x smaller chillers vs 1x larger chiller because the smaller ones will be working just as hard, or harder
to achieve the same temps as the larger unit.
It may actually consume more power in the long run.
If it is in series then the fist chiller will work harder then the second chiller because the water coming out from fist chiller might already cold enough thus did not trigger 2nd chiller to turn on.
Separate pump probably the best way.
I plumbed both separately (in parallel).
One is running off an Eheim 1000l/h powerhead which runs my CO2 reactor and then goes to one of Resun 280. I had to put some Eheim filter media in the reactor to catch debris, found that it reduces small bubbles as well (I'm bubbling 4-5 bubbles per sec).
The other chiller is powered by my Eheim 2217 canister filter. I have a separate 2215 running.
The chillers don't kick in at exactly the same time though the temp readings are always +/- 1degree. The calibration error can be adjusted to compensate for any error in the temp reading by the thermostat. So the chillers come in at roughly the same time, I would say within 5 min of each other unless the temp rise is so small that one chiller can bring the temp down again.
My set temp on the chillers is 26degC and my external thermostat reads within half a degree.
I don't see any problems with your setup, aside from the fact that it is somewhat likely to be less efficient (electrical consumption wise, as well as long term wear and tear) than employing a larger single unit that kicks in less frequently.
Have you considered controlling both chillers with the same external thermostat / cutoff so they both kick in together and stop together?
I guess that would be the option once I see the thermostat in the chiller not working properly. THanks for the idea.
This is a brilliant (and rather exciting project) idea.
Fuzzy, so equipment is readily available to do this?
Sweet idea. I can imagine the process:
1.) External Thermostat set to 26 degrees
2.) External Thermostat senses 27 degrees
3.) External Thermostat turns on the 2 chillers
4.) 2 External Chillers fire up
5.) External Thermostat senses 25~26 degrees
6.) Circuit Turns off
- Always Exceptions to the Rules -
- Explain yourself thoroughly in the forums not just state the obvious -
- Overkill is the best killing! -
Where could I get such a thermostat? I know I can customize a thermo switch for chillers but that involves re-wiring. Can I get a plug in type similar to the timer switches we all use for lights?
yes you can, get it from sim lim (Acez Instrument Pte Ltd, #B1-38 )
Hi Shadow, just to clarify; the instrument/device you are talking about switches on and off according to the temperature of the water the user sets to?
If this is so, setting the chiller(s) to the coldest setting would make sense as the instrument/device will only turn on the circuit when it senses the temperature has increased above the preset - Brilliant.
- Always Exceptions to the Rules -
- Explain yourself thoroughly in the forums not just state the obvious -
- Overkill is the best killing! -
yes, the equipment "temperature controller" only turn on or off the chiller. so you should set the temp on the chiller to be the lowest.
The good thing is you actually measure real temperature in the tank instead of the temperature inside chiller heat exchanger chamber. The temperature inside the chiller is depend on the water flow. That is why if your pump flowrate lower than requirement, you will have start/stop problem.
Other way to fix the start/stop problem is using external sensor, but then you need to open the chiller, which most people don't like the idea.
My TECO Chiller has a way to match the chiller temperature to the real-time tank temperature from what I hear, I bought it second hand and the instruction manual did not come with it. So far it works, just the UV light blew and it costs something like 250 to change it - No Thanks!
I have a separate Eheim pump to the chiller, I am not a believer in hooking any external canister to the chiller. The flowrate and filtration drop. Also the chiller is not as "smooth". Currently the pump does 2000LPH.
If I knew what to do, I would open the chiller up. I love the idea of tinkering with anything.
Now to this thread, I think I will get this thermostat-circuit thing, very interesting.
- Always Exceptions to the Rules -
- Explain yourself thoroughly in the forums not just state the obvious -
- Overkill is the best killing! -
you can just use it without UVor get those inline UV, 13W probably around S$40. or get 3rd party UV light bulb.
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