Shades of Green on Glass & Water Surface

[Puffer]

Gonna seek advice here:

3 feet planted tank with 132w lighting and co2 2bps. ph: 6.8, temp: 27dc.

Flora: mainly E tenellus, nanas, java moss, riccia fluitans.

Fauna: 7x Cardinals, 2x ancistrus sp., 3x M erythromicron, 20x C harbosus, 6x Pumila trichopsis, 4x birchen splendens.

Recently, my water surface seems to cover with a layer of oily greenish stuff and the tank glass shades of greenish powdered-like stuff (which can be easily removed by a swipe). It must be a kind of algae but definitely not green spot algae. I wish to know what it is and the cause of it. Because my co2 is turned on 24/7, my bigger fish and shrimps suffocated - my german ram pair and a veil-tailed albino bristlenose died during CNY Day 1. Although I made more frequent water changes and at larger amount, the greenish hue appeared again the following day. Any bros can help?

[Shadow]

Green dust algae maybe. Not sure about the greenish surface oil. Do you have surface skimmer?


Search for green dust algae on the link below:
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

[Viper007]

Once you put a surface skimmer this problem will be solve.

[Captain Telecredible]

check it you with Chan from NA bro. He have some antidote for green dust algae. I recently brought from him 2 bottles of algae remover, and almost in a week time, all algae were gone. It caught me by surprise that it really remove all the algae so quickly. But for faunas, i have 15 otos to counter the algae. Meanwhile during the period, i did not turn on my co2 for 4 days, and also blackout the tank for around 3 days. I didnt feed my fishes. Even though, i did manage to change 50% of water twice in 2 days. Even of the heavy water changes, my Apistogramma Bitaeniata ''Paracuuba'' and other 150 cardinal, 4 cories and other countless faunas mangae to survive this attack. Flora, damage were caused.

Cheers.

[sandeepraghuvanshi]

The plants that you have are mostly slow growing except e tenneleus.
Hence the light in your tank is not being fully utilised by plants. Put in some fast growing stem plants that you can take out a later stage.
Also try out some floating plants like salvania, they will rapildy absorb all excess nutrient in you tank.
Frequent water changes will not help in this condition, they will only bring fresh nutrients at each water change and algae will only grow.
Cut down lights, stop water changes, introduce floating plants and it should go after some time.

[newtank]

read somewhere that algae on the glass does not necessarily means something is wrong with the water. the green stuff on the water surface is probably the beginning of green water.....to me this type of algae is always the most mysterious.....

[Captain Telecredible]

Green water is usually caused by overdosage of fertilisers. Blackout and frequent water changes would actually solve the problem.

Check this out.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm


cheers.

[Shadow]

Most of the fertilizers does not contain ammonia, thus overdose will not cause algae. This is the idea of Estimate Index (EI), overdose everything since it does not cause algae but it will kill the fauna if too much. Now since all nutrients are available, what left to control is CO2.

[Captain Telecredible]

Most of the fertilizers does not contain ammonia, thus overdose will not cause algae. This is the idea of Estimate Index (EI), overdose everything since it does not cause algae but it will kill the fauna if too much. Now since all nutrients are available, what left to control is CO2.

Oops! Pardon me for the wrong information. But this piece of information was what Chan told me.

Cheers

[Puffer]

Thanks for the inputs and sharing guys. Bro Sandeepraghuvanshi is probably right to advise the introduction of fast nutrient-absorbing plants. This reminds me of hornworts and water lettuce which I have just recently got rid off before this problem arises. Now, I'm going to add in some floating plants and see-how. To think that I do not add any fertilizers at all!

Robert, how many bps of co2 should I increase to? I forgot to mention that my eheim ecco flowrate of 600l/hr is somewhat weak. Should I increase the flowrate? If so, how many l/hr should I aim for? I have thought of an eheim powerline 2048. What's your take?

[Puffer]

Green dust algae maybe. Not sure about the greenish surface oil. Do you have surface skimmer?


Search for green dust algae on the link below:
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

Thanks for the informative link. It's the first time I've heard of this algae I don't have a surface skimmer and I've never used it before. I used to have tiny little bubbles floating on the water surface before this happens.

[Captain Telecredible]

Wow Puffe! 600l for a 3ft tank is definetly no enough. When i was having algae problems, i turn off co2 completely.

cheers

[Puffer]

Wow Puffe! 600l for a 3ft tank is definetly no enough. When i was having algae problems, i turn off co2 completely.

cheers

Hi Capt, you made me dig out my filter box to double-check it's flowrate. True enough this filter operates at a pumprate of 600l/hr and says it's for tank volume of up to 300l! So, what's the flowrate I should be aiming at? My tank's fauna ratio is as such: 40% nanas, 25% E tennellus, 15% java moss, 15% riccia, 5% others. Unfortunately, I can't obtain a full picture of my current setup except in this one: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=50474.

[newtank]

Actually the Ecco range was developed specially for planted tank, and one school of thought says a low flowrate is better for plants, that's why Eheim's Ecco range always has a lower flowrate then the other models. Of course there is always the other school down the road that says a higher flowrate is better......in fact 2 of the most established ferts brand already have contradicting advise, Dennerle says low flowrate, while Dupla says a high flowrate.......

[ghim]

Looks like green water and hair algae on your glass. Looking at your lighting wattage versus your plants selection, lights and nutrient supply may be the issue. Which is in line with sandeepraghuvanshi suggestions.

I am using Ecco 2232 with flowrate 400l/h for my 60x40x45cm tank - which is 100L. The flowrate is definitely not enough, but my filter selection is limited by the height of the canister filter. So I added in a nano wave maker. On it only during photo-period. It solved all my algae issues except for 2, BBA and GSA.

Take it step by step. Ecco 2236 should be sufficient for your tank. Besides lower flowrate compare to other models. If you notice, it has a higher filter media capacity and easy priming. Thus promoting better BB growth and regular maintenance.

If they come up with a Ecco series with flowrate between 200-300l/h, I will use it for my 30cm cube.

[Shadow]

Robert, how many bps of co2 should I increase to? I forgot to mention that my eheim ecco flowrate of 600l/hr is somewhat weak. Should I increase the flowrate? If so, how many l/hr should I aim for? I have thought of an eheim powerline 2048. What's your take?

My guess is you do not have drop checker to measure your CO2 level. Do you use diffuser or reactor? CO2 level is depend on how you introduce it into your tank. CO2 also depend on how fast your plant absorb it. In other word more light will require more CO2. I inject 8bps for my 3ft tank with 150WMH+40WPL. I have to split it into 2 others wise very difficult to count 8bps. My drop checker color is light green toward yellow. I'm using 2217 (1000l/h). For dense planted tank, you need better flow. I have additional 1750l/h powering my chiller.

[Shadow]

Actually the Ecco range was developed specially for planted tank, and one school of thought says a low flowrate is better for plants, that's why Eheim's Ecco range always has a lower flowrate then the other models. Of course there is always the other school down the road that says a higher flowrate is better......in fact 2 of the most established ferts brand already have contradicting advise, Dennerle says low flowrate, while Dupla says a high flowrate.......

ADA said high flow rate . So what is the reason behind Dennele says flow rate and what is the reason for Dupla say high rate?

I vote for high flowrate because plant absorb nutrient from substrate and water column. Plant do have the ability to move so in order for it to absorb nutrient from water column, we need to provide it to them, thus the high flow rate. In addition to that CO2 solubility in the water is less than O2. With low flowrate the O2 generate by photosynthesis will be gathering around the plant leave and hinder CO2 to reach the leaves.

[newtank]

ADA said high flow rate . So what is the reason behind Dennele says flow rate and what is the reason for Dupla say high rate?

I vote for high flowrate because plant absorb nutrient from substrate and water column. Plant do have the ability to move so in order for it to absorb nutrient from water column, we need to provide it to them, thus the high flow rate. In addition to that CO2 solubility in the water is less than O2. With low flowrate the O2 generate by photosynthesis will be gathering around the plant leave and hinder CO2 to reach the leaves.

I was not able to get any literature on Dupla's claim, I had only managed to see their so call "10 golden rules" which included the high flowrate, however for Dennerle, they have mentioned 2 reasons

1) Plants in nature strives in slow flowing stream
2) A lower flowrate through the filter, the more efficient the biological filtration will be as the bacteria will have more time to set footing

But i think this high/low flowrate thing is really a relative term, whether it is ADA, or Dennerle, or Dupla, I dont think they have mentioned any absolute flowrate, so we have to adjust accordingly

To support this point, ADA's ES-600 seris cannister filter which is used for tank up to 90x45x45 (App 200L) has a rating of 6 L /min, which is roughly 360 L /hr. An Eheim Ecco 2234, which is also recommended for up to 200L tank, has a rating of 500L/hr. So does this make ADA's filter too low a flow rate?

[Shadow]

I think should change my previous post to adequate flow rate which can be achieve by adding wave maker for example

ADA ES-1200 (16L/min = 960L/hr) is also recommended for 90x45x45 . Filter flow is also depend on your tank scape. If your scape is Iwagumi scape, then 960L/hr will be like washing machine

Typically for a fresh water tank, you will need to cycle 2 to 3 times an hour through the filter. 200L tank will need 400L/hr to 600L/hr. You need to add some allowance because once you put in your media, 30% of the flow lost. You also need to add allowance for hose length, hose bending, and cleaning allowance (I'm sure you do not want to clean your filter every week to maintain the flow rate )

I agree with Dennerle point 1 but not point 2. Point 2 will imply that those bigger filter are less efficient compare to smaller filter. The bigger the filter the higher the flow rate right. Maybe there is a certain maximum limit, for example 10,000 L/hr flow rate will bacteria to set foot on the filter media.

[blue33]

Gonna seek advice here:

3 feet planted tank with 132w lighting and co2 2bps. ph: 6.8, temp: 27dc.

Flora: mainly E tenellus, nanas, java moss, riccia fluitans.

Fauna: 7x Cardinals, 2x ancistrus sp., 3x M erythromicron, 20x C harbosus, 6x Pumila trichopsis, 4x birchen splendens.

Recently, my water surface seems to cover with a layer of oily greenish stuff and the tank glass shades of greenish powdered-like stuff (which can be easily removed by a swipe). It must be a kind of algae but definitely not green spot algae. I wish to know what it is and the cause of it. Because my co2 is turned on 24/7, my bigger fish and shrimps suffocated - my german ram pair and a veil-tailed albino bristlenose died during CNY Day 1. Although I made more frequent water changes and at larger amount, the greenish hue appeared again the following day. Any bros can help?

Green water surface is the sigh of green water explosion, the algae is waiting to be explode before your whole tank will turn into green water, the faster way to clear is using UV or do a blackout for 2-3 days. As for the oily think, get some guppies or endler will do the job very well.