Hope you don't mind, I'll answer your post in point form for simplicity... OK you wrote:
Tank Dimensions (3ft x 18 inches x 18 inches):
OK based on your dimensions, you have a tank volume of about 120L (assuming 10cm off the bottom for gravel, and water line is 5 cm from the top).
Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : ??
Type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : 4 X FL tubes (25W BioLux, some China Brand)
With 4 tubes of 25W, it gives you 100W, which means you have roughly 3W/G which is the typical amount recommended. Just remember to cut back on your initial lighting hours until your tank settles in... abt 8hrs would be good. Are your biolux tubes from NEC or Osram... both have a name called biolux
CO2 Injection Rate (bps) : 1 bubble per 3 seconds
Type of CO2 (DIY/Liquid/Tank) : Tank
Your CO2 is OK, though you should check your PH/KH to give you an indicator on whether it is too high. Without fish inside, its hard to know whether there is a risk of CO2 toxicity.
Substrate Used : Can't remember brand, comes in a small white colour pail. Pungent free.
Is your substrate dennerle deponit?
Liquid Fertilizers Used : Floravit and Iron pills
Frequency of fertilization :
For liquid ferts, you can cut that out for now... your plants should have enough from your substrate, and also some of your base fert would probaly have leeched out during setup...
Tank Temperature : 28 DegC
Your Tank temp is fine. Just don't choose plants which need very cold water
Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister) : Canister
Filter media used : Top level - Bioballs + cparse Wool, 2nd level - Ceramics Rings + Fine Wool.
Filter type and media is also no problem.
Chemical Properties (Fill what you can)
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Carbonate Hardness (kh): ?
Total Hardness (gH): ?
PH : ?
NH4 (ppm): ?
NO2 (ppm): ?
NO3 (ppm): ?
PO4 (ppm): ?
Fe (ppm): ?
I notice you have not filled in any chemical properties... it would be helpful is you could invest in 3 test kits... KH/PH/ and later NO3. These are probably the most tested parameters for planted tanks.
Bioload (Your Fish and Plants)
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Still at cycle-thru stage, officially planted on the 14th Feb, so no fish yet.
Plants mainly bought from the Ah-Pek shop at Paris Ris Fish-Farm Road. The one within the Mermaid right at the back.
When introducing fish, we usually start off with hardy algae eating species... this way we can avoid feeding, clear your plants of algae, and kick off your cycling process. Take note... your cycling process doesn't really start until you have fish... not unless you are doing a fishless cycle... i.e. no fish means no NH3/NH4 means no NO2 means no NO3...
Plants:
Moss - Not sure which type, all tied to drift wood
Lily - big light green type, I got info from "TheList", suspect maybe Nuphar Japanica.
Red colour arrow-head
Green colour arrow-head, look like mini water-lily, the leaves float on the surface.
Vallisneria americana, I think...... like tap-grass but spiral shape
Micranthemum umbrosum, I think so too...... but lighter green in colour
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, I think..... for the lawn
Lilaeopsis mauritiana, I think so too ...... not sure if thisis the correct type. Got the name off Tropica website
Hydrocotyle leucocephala, look like water-crest
No comments on your plant selection
<State what fishes and plants you have to the best of your ability>
Would like to put in Riccia once the tank settle down. But was told riccia is very difficult to maintain.
Riccia is an easy plant to grow... but maintenance can be a pain as you need to regularly trim your riccia, and weigh it down nicely so it doesn't float up... can also be quite messy... some people love it some people hate it... Me, due to time constraints I steer clear of it.
Some possible habitants in the tank would be:
Tetra - Neon, Cardinal, Diamond
Otos, SAE (which is better???)
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