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Did you acclimatise the yamatos?
I always ponder on the need to introduce bacteria.
From shrimps, there are products like Mosura BioPlus.
Hi,
I have set up a 70 L tank about a month ago. It has been cycling without any fish in it. I do a weekly 50% water change, and add BaterMax (a liquid bacteria solution) each time i change water. Using Gex soil. Bogwood tied with moss. Using a Dymax clip on fan
Recently, I noticed some hair algae on my moss. So decided to add in some Yamatos to help get rid of the algae. But after adding in 5, they died after a few days. Since it has been cycling for a month, the water parameters should be quite stable by now. So quite puzzled about the death.
Did a water check using JBL 5 in 1 test strips today. The results are:
1. NO3: 0
2. NO2: 0
3. GH: <3d
4. KH: 3-6d
5. PH: 6.4
On the chart provided with the test strips, the water parameters are in the "Ok" range. So can anyone help explain the yamatos' death? It is the 2nd batch already.
By the way, are there any good bacteria solutions that are safe for shrimps like CRS and sakuras?
Thanks.
Did you acclimatise the yamatos?
I always ponder on the need to introduce bacteria.
From shrimps, there are products like Mosura BioPlus.
(l)(l)4 Echinodorus leaves(l)(l)
Did you condition your shrimps properly? Even they are belong to the hardly types of shrimps we still need to use the dripping method.
New 2ft Project Coming Up
Aquascaping since 2006-Present
Hi,
I added the whole packet into my tank to regulate the temperature for about 2 hrs. then I poke some holes to let the water mix. after about an hr, i added the shrimps in.
I can really see the difference in behavior between a healthy yamato in my other 2 feet tank and this one. Once I added them into this new tank, can see them just staying at a corner and not moving much. Whereas for my other tank, they are very active and swimming around.
If the test strips are accurate, then the water parameters should be quite stable. Maybe the cycling process is not complete yet? Is 1 month sufficient for a 70 L tank?
What is your Amonia level? NH3/NH4
You took the words right out of my mouth.Originally Posted by Shadow
I suspect NH4 might be the problem as well.
-Philosophos
The JBL test strips only test the above 5 parameters. NO2, NO3, GH, KH and PH.
So you guys suspect that ammonia might be the problem?
If I had not added in anything out of the ordinary, using only declorinated overnight water and gex soil, 50% W.C every week, adding in BacterMax, what is the ordinary/normal NH3/NH4 level?
Because I never had this problem with my other 2 tanks. I use the same method on them, but never had any ammonia problem. Anyway, what causes ammonia level to spike? and how to lower it if its really the problem?
My friend suggested that my yamatos died because of the height of my tank (65cm), and I'm only using a GEX hang on filter (S size), think flow rate is about 300L/hr, (according to the box) he said that there is not enough oxygen to travel all the way to the bottom of the tank. He suggested me to use an air pump. What do you guys think?
Please help, really want to get this right. I tried to add in a few horn nerite snails yesterday, and i got a feeling they are already dead because at the same spot unside down since i added it in.
Absolutely no NO3 is making me suspect NH4 is present. There should be NO3 in any established aquarium. If you're not using dechlorinator, but rather just letting it gas off, try waiting 24 hours. Also, ask the water company if it's chlorine or chloramine that they use to treat the water; chloramine won't just disappear. This might be the reason you're reading 0 NH3. Still, it's only speculation. See if a LFS will do a free test for NH4... some around here will do that.
100L/hr is pretty low flow. Air stones can work, but if you're using CO2 it'll make it gas off faster. Get a bigger filter if you can; something in the 400L/hr range or higher.
-Philosophos
I guess the S size GEX HOB filter is too small for your setup, 300L/hr is the max flowrate without considering any loss. The flowrate will decrease further when you add in media and the inlet sponge.
Try to get a bigger filter, eheim liberty 200 will be good (but quite costly for a HOB) or a cannister will be better if you have the space.
oh, 300L/hr. I must have misread your post. Still, that is a bit on the slow side. I'm not sure if that alone would be enough to kill them, but it certainly could increase stress level. If you have plans for a heavily planted tank, I recommend a canister filter with rain bar, and very high flow (~900L/hr). Otos and shrimp seem to enjoy the current, and it will help to keep detritus/mulm off the lower leaves of plants. If you're going to keep the plant density light, the aforementioned 400+ L/hr should be enough.
-Philosophos
Our water is treated with chloramine as well as chlorine in Singapore now.
Yeah I also suspect its Ammonia levels. I'm assuming the source of water is the same as your other tank? then it shouldn't be copper or chloramine.
Also might want to note that Yamatos are pretty much useless for hair algae removal. Might want to try Malayan shrimp instead, should not be more than $5 for a bag of 50 shrimp.
But I had the same problems with hair algae in my tank during the cycling phase, I think you might want to start planting tons of plants in there before it escalates.
Easiest would be to add floating plants like Amazon frogbits or Salvinias.
Hi,
thanks all for the post.
Currently, I added some Zeolite rocks (Anti-ammonia) into my filter to deal with the ammonia. Lets see how it goes.
Will update you guys.
Zeolite? are you planning on never cycling your aquarium?
-Philosophos
The description on these rocks are to help remove ammonia and other toxic gases from the water.
Also helps to stablise the Ph level at 6.5 to 7.5
I have added them to my other tanks, and they seemed ok.
The zeolite rocks are supposed to remove ammonia and other toxic gases from the water. Also helps to stablish the Ph to around 6.5 to 7.5
Have tried on my other tanks, seemed ok.
My fiance and I have done a bit of reading. It's looking like the zeolite pulls out the NH4 without altering its state, which would theoretically allow and a aquarium to cycle with the zeolite becoming the filter medium. So adding zeolite without changing it, so long as it lasts 30-40 days might be enough to avoid all the symptoms of cycling a tank, while still getting the job done. My main concern would be with the NO3 levels spiking even though the ammonia is removed. Is there any chance you could do a couple nitrite tests along the way to test whether or not it's happening? I'm curious as to what the results would be.
-Philosophos
Hi,
sure thing. I will continue to run my filter with the zeolite rocks in it to see its effectiveness in removing NH4. Maybe next week I will do a test on both NO3 and NH4 to see its level. Will post updates to let you know.
Anyway, have read in other posts that zeolite rocks needs "recharging" for it to continue working. Have you read anything on that? If i were to leave the rocks in the filter and let it become part of my filter medium, will it have any effect on my tank?
Paul
Iam curious what is a Yamato
A common algae eating shrimps extensively used by Takashi Amano
colin | The Wilderness and Forest | FTS
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