Reply With Quoteerrm wats the gray Divider in the middle ?
Arcylic sheet is solid piece or the full of holes type?
hi people, i am planning to partition my 2 feet tank. Can anybody comment and suggest whether this plan can work? Thanks!
errm wats the gray Divider in the middle ?
Arcylic sheet is solid piece or the full of holes type?
how about connecting your chiller thru the canister? it save a pump head & electrical bill... and even out the water flow distribution as well instead of a lot of turbulence within the two partion...
oh the grey thing is the air tube. sorry i forgot to mention my problem in better detail. I plan to do partitioned tank for crs/sakura to seperate the better ones from the rest.
1. connecting the chiller through the canister is not really an option for me because the chiller needs a flow rate of 1200-2000l/h but my eheim 2211 is only like 300l/h or something.
2.I am not about to replace my canister filter because that would cost a bomb and there wouldn't be any space for a huge filter.
3. I also read that trying to enhance the flowrate of the canister filter by adding a pump head in series is not effective as there is some form of choking point for the flow rate.
4. As for the acrylic partition, i am thinking that it will a solid piece with that netted gap below, so that the shrimps and shrimplets do not migrate freely..
Anybody can advise on improvements to the filtration, energy conservation or partition?
I see one potentially serious problem, depending on your substrate.
Sandstorm. Your chiller will require at least 800 L/hr or closer to 1000L/hr of actual flow for a 2 ft tank, to work efficiently, and in a 1ft partition that would translate to a pretty strong current.
The current can also mess with your scaping and possibly stress out the shrimp, maybe if you use a lily pipe or rainbar or something to diffuse the current.
What model chiller are you using btw? A chiller requiring 1200l/hr is probably major overkill for a 2 ft..
You could probably chain a pair of 2 ft tanks to that chiller with no problems at all.
Another thing you might want to consider is running the pump inline with the canister output, into the chiller.
So:
Tank -> Canister -> Pump -> Chiller -> Tank.
Simplify the loop, and reduce the amount of tubing and inlet / outlets.
What is the flow rate of the pump you are using to drive the chiller?
If your pump is strong enough, you should definitely be able to leave the canister off and just remove the impeller, let the pump do all the work.
the canister 300L/hr is not powerful enough to drive the chiller.
do so would cause the chiller to kick in every now and then.....
causing chiller to spoil more easily and extra electricity bills
1. As to problem of strong current, i will be using GEX shrimp soil, and i plan to wrap the 2000l/h pump with some filter bag so that it doesn't suck shrimps/substrate in. Will this be better?
2. Yes i have 2 rain bars, so i probably can diffuse the water current in that way.
3. I am using resun cl450. I was told by the previous owner than its just right for 2 feet in the sense that the chiller would not be overworked and more economical. He used it on a 1 feet and it kicked in for 3 min and rest for 40 min.
4. About your suggestion of connecting in series and removing the impeller, I think i may consider it, however the sequence is it wrong? Shouldn't it be
tank-->pump-->canister-->chiller-->tank instead of
tank-->canister-->pump-->chiller-->tank?
Btw, thanks for all your input people!
Originally Posted by Fuzzy
haha. yeah i thought that previous post was obviously post clocking, looks like it has been removed. Anyway any bros have tried and tested the method discussed above? i.e removing canister filter impeller and connecting to pump?
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