Re: apisto: Biotoecus opercularis
Coloration + Dimorphism
What initially appeared to be a tank full of drab gray fish, soon housed what has to be the most magnificent dwarf cichlid out there. The color of Biotoecus opercularis is very hard to describe - photos don't do it justice. Instead of the bold coloration of many cichlids, Biotoecus are unique in that they exhibit delicate pastel and iridescent colors. Mature males and females have a grayish background color with an iridescent pink/purple on the flanks. This color is more intense on females, especially the belly region, as is the yellow/green color found on her operculum. Particularly on the males, there is a string of metallic green spots along the flanks. These spots can be somewhat variable, I have seen males with either one or two rows, but a single row tends to be the norm. Both sexes exhibit a dark blotch on the operculum (hence opercularis) as well as 5 along their dorsum. There is also a mid-lateral blotch that appears depending upon the fishes' mood.
Not only does Biotoecus exhibit beautiful coloration on the body, the finnage of this species in nothing short of breathtaking, especially in sexually active males. The first 2 anterior dorsal fin spines of both sexes are usually black, again depending upon mood. Both sexes exhibit some yellow/orange in the center of the caudal along with some iridescent vertical lines and bright orange ventral fins, but this is where the similarity ends. While the female has relatively short, rounded, and uncolored (save for the metallic green in the dorsal and anal) fins, the male's fins are another story. His dorsal exhibits metallic green spots on the fin membranes and is more elongate than the female's. The caudal fin, in addition to the previously mentioned colors, shows an unbelievable combination of red and blue pastels on its lower third. The caudal also exhibits extensions of fin rays, one on the top and one on the bottom. The anal fin also exhibits the red/blue pastel coloration, but is also spangled with minute metallic yellow/green spots. The ventral fins sport long white extensions that may reach to the tip of the anal fin. Overall, it is very difficult to describe, much less photograph all the delicate colors of this fish, which is why I have taken so much space to try to do so. This is not one of those fish that can be seen from across the room - one has to take a very close look into a dim tank with indirect sunlight or diffused fluorescent lighting to get the full effect.
As with many cichlids, determining the sexes is fairly difficult until the fish start to reach sexual maturity. In the case of Biotoecus, this happens around the time the fish reach an inch and a half in length. At this point the males will become slightly more elongated than their female counterparts. When they get a bit larger, the males will start to develop extensions in the caudal and ventral fins. The females will also begin to sport the pinkish belly coloration, somewhat analogous to that of female pike cichlids (Crenichla sps.). As usual, subdominant fish of both sexes will appear very similar and hard to sex, but there is one fairly reliable way to tell them apart - the dorsal fin coloration. Both sexes exhibit a metallic green line about halfway up the dorsal fin. In males, the line generally consists of a single spot on each section of fin membrane. In females, the green is much bolder and present on both the spines and membranes, forming a continuous, unbroken line.
Breeding
Over time the largest pair stayed towards the front of the tank where the flowerpot shards were most numerous. As I had hoped for, the largest female began to grow more and more rotund as she became full with eggs. At the same time, her color became more and more intense until she had transformed into what has to be the most unbelievably colored dwarf cichlid. Her once muted violet/pink sheen on the flanks and green operculum had grown very intense. Not only was color more widespread along her body, it had transformed into a metallic-pastel (if such a word exists) that looked like a combination of pink, purple, blue, and even some green thrown in. One sure-fire way to tell that your female is ready to spawn is the replacement of the orange color on the ventral fins with a metallic sky blue and a slight protrusion at the vent.
When I began to suspect that the Biotoecus might be ready to spawn, I replaced almost 30% of the tank's volume with pure R.O. water that was 3-4 degrees cooler than the tank water to mimic the rainforest's rainy season. The next morning I was pleasantly surprised to see that the fish had excavated underneath a 3"x 2" curved section of broken flowerpot. The gravel was now piled up in front of the shard, creating a very small entrance to the "love shack." Two days later, under a full moon, the female appeared ready to spawn. There was a small bulge in the urogenital area, often indicative of imminent egg laying in cichlids.
When I woke up the next morning for school, I was a bit worried because the female looked so skinny and lost most of her color. Not having had any coffee yet, my cloudy mind thought that something terrible had happened, but as she retreated to the cave, I realized they had spawned for the first time in their new home! Just visible were about 100 cream-colored eggs laid on the underside of the cave's roof. A quick check of the pH yielded a reading of 4.5 and a TDS meter reading of 38 ppm.
A Note on Courtship
Unfortunately, I have yet to witness the actual egg laying by my Biotoecus, even after seeing eggs on a dozen occasions. I have, however seen the amazing courtship display many times. The dance consists of a sort of "dive bombing" behavior on the part of the male as he attempts to show the female his choices for spawning substrates. The male will spread his fins and flare his gill covers, shaking his body in an attempt to impress the female and let her know of his desires. Eventually, the female will acknowledge his intentions with her own display. Usually within 1 to 2 days of the onset of courtship, I will come to find the female guarding a plaque of eggs.
Raising the Fry
The eggs hatch in about 3 days, at which point the female will often move the wrigglers to another excavated location with her mouth. Depending upon temperature the fry become fully free swimming at about 4 days post-hatch. At this point they are ready to eat! The Biotoecus fry are tiny and as a result need an equally diminutive food source for the next 2 days. Having learned my lesson from losing the 2 previous batches of fry, I was now ready. Thanks to my friend Luke Colliton, I had a culture of Paramecium going. I also purchased some Sera "Micron" - basically a powdered spirulina-based food. For the first day, I used a small pipette to gently "shoot" the Paramecium at the cloud of fry. Alternately, I mixed some of the dry powder with water, let it saturate for a minute, and squirted it into the fry's general area. The parents seemed to realize the presence of food and would make rapid side-to-side motions with their tails and chewing motions with their mouth, possibly alerting the fry to the presence of food. The fry could be seen making small darting movements, so I knew that they were accepting both foods. The second day, I stopped feeding the Paramecium and solely offered the powdered food. I did this frequently throughout the day, essentially every time I passed by, making sure not to overfeed at any one time.
After the fry were in the free-swimming stage for 2 days, I began to offer small amounts of newly hatched live baby brine shrimp (Artemia). I use the San Francisco strain of eggs, due to their smaller size and reportedly higher nutritional value compared to the Great Salt Lake strain. I was delighted to see a large number of the fry making efforts to consume the baby brine shrimp. Not all of the fry could swallow the shrimp, so I continued to offer the powdered food as well. After another day, all the fry seemed to be able to eat a few shrimp, so I suspended the feedings of the powder food, save a few "just in case" squirts. It was really amusing to watch the fry attack the baby brine shrimp. They would curve their bodies into the classic predatory S-bend and lurch forward, grabbing a shrimp and swallowing it. They weren't always successful, but their bellies were always full and orange in a few minutes.
The parents raised the fry until they were about 1 and a half moths old, at which time, I decided to move the 70-odd fry to a 20 "long" of their own. The grow-out tank was filled halfway with water from the parents', another quarter with fresh R.O. water, and the rest with tap water. Removing the fry was a nerve-wracking experience initially. "How the heck do I get 70 fry out of a densely planted tank full of caves?," I thought. What I ended up doing was taking a large net the width of the tank and wedging it in to form a barrier and using a smaller net to scoop the fry out. Some fry escaped, so I simply repeated it after the parents rounded them up again. The fry adapted to their new tank very well and were soon feeding on baby brine shrimp. As the fry grew, I gradually introduced shaved Mysis shrimp and eventually small pieces of blackworms to their diet. The fry reach sexual maturity somewhere at about 6-8 months of age.
Adoketa, Breitbinden, Paciquamis, Diplotaenia, Elizabethae, Mendezi, Inka, Agassizi, L046, L066, Crystal Red Shrimps
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