Reply With QuoteHi shrimppaste,
My style is to go straight into it, no formula. Start EI dosing full face with lightings of 8 to 9 hours. I do like to turn the lights on a few hours after sun rises and turn them off a few hours before sun set, say from 9am to 6pm.
Hi everyone,
I am starting a new planted tank and have decided to use the EI method. However, my question is how much should I dose when the tank is newly planted? I mean is tehre a formula? Like should the light be on for only 4 hours a day and thus to half the dosing in terms o PPI etc? Thanks! Please help cause my tank is coming this weekend!!!!!HAHAHAHAH! EXCITED!
Hi shrimppaste,
My style is to go straight into it, no formula. Start EI dosing full face with lightings of 8 to 9 hours. I do like to turn the lights on a few hours after sun rises and turn them off a few hours before sun set, say from 9am to 6pm.
shrimppaste, do look into your CO2 first. It is easy to dump fertilizer into the tank, but getting the correct amount of CO2 during photo period is the most difficult.I am starting a new planted tank and have decided to use the EI method.
colin | The Wilderness and Forest | FTS
just inject CO2 excessively, you don't have any fauna for the first few weeks anyway
I mean I have this concern because I have heard from a LFS owner a few years back that when we first started, the roots are not firmly set up yet, so the plants will not be able to take up the nutrients fully, so will create algae etc. I mean I don't know how true this is.
So the consensus on all the experts here is to directly go to 8 hours with the full CO2? Thanks!
And the idea issue I have is the photo hour. I only come home from work at around 7+ so this means that I will not get to see my nice tank!!!
Is it ok if I do 12pm to 8pm? HAhaha! I mean my tank is not beside any strong sunlight source.
Oh by the way, straying a bit. I am thinking of the theme for my tank and is basically gravitating towards an asian tank with Boraras and Parosphromenus, chocolate gouramis etc, but the problem with this is that I have read that they are not that suitable for a tank with a lot of current? But at the same time, I want more current to distribute my CO2 better.
So would a better choice be an amazon tank? With tetras and apistos?
My interest has wandered! Do U?
CO2 Excessively???... You're committing suicide to the bb(bacteria).Originally Posted by Shadow
just inject CO2 excessively, you don't have any fauna for the first few weeks anyway...
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!! TIME TO LAY BACK AND RELAX!
A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step
won't be so sure about that. How much ppm does water can hold CO2? or how many ppm before most of CO2 bubble from your diffuser goes to atmosphere (CO2 ppm stay the same no mater how much CO2 injected)? Will that level enough to kill BB?
I have two occasion where CO2 injected uncontrollably into the tank. It kill all the fauna but I can put new fauna next day without the need of re-cycle the filter.
This probably true, plant will try to adapt to new environment before start growing and use the nutrient. Depending on the plant of course. Some plant like Elatine triandra start growing on the 3rd day from planting.
It is OK
In my opinion, as long as they have place to rest, place with less current, it should be OK. My Boraras brigitae like strong flow though, I always saw them purposely swimming in front of water outlet.
My interest has wandered! Do U?
If is not true then i guess what Amano mention is not true in online Aqua Journal.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!! TIME TO LAY BACK AND RELAX!
A Journey Of A Thousand Miles Begins With A Single Step
Bacteria's tolerance towards high CO2 and low O2 should well be much higher than most critters/fish. Fish might start to gasp/die if the dissolved oxygen level goes below 4ppm but bacteria can still survive at 0.5ppm and below for several hours.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
New soil based substrates like ADA aquasoil leeches high amount of NH4 which is why you get algae blooms in new tanks rather than plants not taking up nutrients due to lack of roots. Plants take in nutrients from both the leaves and substrates depending on which area has abundant of resources. New tanks are better off with doing large frequent water changes to offset the NH4 leeching.
Regards,
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
I hate to say this but not all that Amano said is alway true. Well, not all that I said true eitherIf is not true then i guess what Amano mention is not true in online Aqua Journal.
Anyway, Fertilizer article at Aquajournal online for example. Amano said "excess nutrients need to be removed to prevent algae from developing" but we are all using EI which is based on excessive fertilizer dosing without algae issue.
Hhahahah
Sorry to interrupt the debate, but haha, I am still seeking an answer. SO do I start 8 hours from the get go and all the suggested PPM be it from CO2 or ferts? Thanks!!
haha, I would say don't worry about it, you can just go a head with it.
I tryed 6 hours a day for the first week as well as 8 hours a day from day one and does not see any different. I try dosing after one week also dosing from day one and again does not see any different. So either I'm lucky or it is really no different.
One thing for sure plant heavily from start to help remove those ammonia leak out from the soil (assuming you are using fertile substrate)
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