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kept turn on for 24 hours however the chiller have their own sensor which outomatically go to standby when the target temperature reached. Note I'm talking about compressor type chiller not TEM.
I know this may sound stupid but i'm learning more about chillers before i spend $$ to get one and it probably will be one of the more expensive equipments in the setup. I was wondering how long must the chiller be switched on for? or must it be kept running for 24/7? Please leave some advise for me =) Thanks..
kept turn on for 24 hours however the chiller have their own sensor which outomatically go to standby when the target temperature reached. Note I'm talking about compressor type chiller not TEM.
yup a compressor..whao but even if it goes into standby mode, it's still consuming electricity =/
hi shadow, do you know of a good and relatively cheap chiller brand suitable for a 3ft tank? any other bros who can help please do =)
I'm using Resun CL-280 with external sensor. It is cheap, serve my purpose but not that good. I mean design wise isn't as good as Artica but hey... you got what you pay for
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I was under the impression that the Artica and Daeil series is more energy efficient and was actually designed for our climate. You need to confirm this yourself.
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yup they way Artica design the heat exchange chamber much better than Resun. Saw the Artica drawing during the Aquarama
so does it mean that if the chiller in standby mode will still consume the same amount of eletricity when it starts to kick in?
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Not quite sure what you are asking, but...
When the chiller is in standby mode, it is consuming very little electricity. From the sound, and logically, almost all parts shut down. We can assume that the only working part would be the thermostat and the control circuit which does not use much electricity at all.
The chiller consumes the most electricity when it has kicked in and cooling the water. Any device that cools or heats something consumes a lot of electricity. Depending on your setup and environment, a chiller would probably kick in and run for 15 mins to an hour and shut down for 1 to 2 hours. That is just an estimate. On very cool days, you'll notice that the chiller works less and standby for longer periods.
If you have an aircon compressor at home, you will notice a similar pattern. You can also liken it to your TV on standby mode. When it is in standby mode, all it needs to do is wait for an infrared signal from you remote. The screen and speakers are off. Once you turn it on, it will turn on the tube and the speakers, etc.
The lower you set the temperature, the harder and longer the chiller has to work. As I understand it, it is not a linear graph. If it takes 10 mins to cool your tank from 28 degrees celcius to 27. It will take even longer to cool from 25 degrees celcius to 24.
Many users in SG aim for about 25 degrees celcius (because of what they read in foreign forums and publications). Personally, I think 27 degrees celcius is enough. That will keep your water temp between about 26.5 ad 27.5 for most chillers. 28 Degrees celcius is good enough for most plants. You'll be surprised how much of a difference these mere 1 to 3 degrees celcius on the thermostat can make to your electricity bill.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
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I think 26C is the ideal temp. I notice there's less algae proliferation at lower temperatures like 22-23C but this would lead to a nasty bill. Last month my electricity bill went up by 25% because itchy fingers here set the chiller to 24C. Lesson learnt.
A chiller on standby mode is still consuming a teeny bit of electricity. What is termed a vampire load. You have probably more than a dozen at home doing this. Handphone, camera battery & laptop chargers, timers, water boilers, satellite box, TV, etc. It adds up.
So what to do?
I manually turn it on in the morning and turn it off in the evening.
You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
2 Celcius degrees lower = 25% increment in electricity bill. Ow!
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
I should be working not posting
Probably other other factors but I think the chiller is the main culprit IMO.
You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung
not surprising. it is easier to cool down 2 deg C at higher range of temperature than at lower range.
of course, your tank surrounding temperature also play apart.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
I once contemplated sticking a styrofoam board on the back and sides of my tank just to cut down temperature gain through there. Never got round to it, but anyone want to give it a try?
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
I should be working not posting
Can be done but won't be show tank though.
You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
Well, at least the back. Since it's facing the wall. Most tanks have backing paper, so the foam board should be reasonably hidden.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
hahah thanks for all the feedback..very interesting and useful information for someone who intends to get a chiller. I used the electricity calculator on this website and realised the drastic increment in the electricity bill when the chiller is included..probably need to get one that is in the 100 watt range =/ and may i also know where to purchase a cheap chiller? which LFS/ warehouse has a good deal?
try NA. so far good pricing for chiller that I had sourced for previously.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
If you get a chiller that is under-rated for your tank size, you might end up paying more electricity because the little guy has to work much harder and longer to chill too much water.Originally Posted by green palette
Another related point... a chiller adds a lot of resistance into the filtration system, so you need to make sure your filter is strong enough to overcome the additional load. If the filter is not strong enough (or too strong, if you buy a under-sized chiller), your chiller will not run optimally and end up over-working.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
i see..in that case what model should i be looking out for if my tank is a 3 footer? like cl-280?? i'm not so sure about these models and the 1/10?? sorry i'm very new to chillers so not sure of all these measurements.. my filter flowrate is about 1000+ l/h
thanks for the advise. =)
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