Reply With QuoteIt's early sign of ich or white spot. However, at this time maybe the white spot is not visible yet. Use protozin to cure.
I've got a 1-month-old 5-foot, 600 liter Malawi Cichlids tank, and all the fishes (~70+; mostly Juveniles + ~10 adults) seem to be scratching themselves -- against the sand substrate or rocks.
I noticed this starting about 10 days ago, so I added a 36-Watt UV lamp (using a pump to circulate tank water thru it at 600 l/hr). This is in addition to my 11-W UV lamp going thru my Eheim 2028 filter. The other filter is an Eheim 2260.
There are frys running around in the rocks, so I'm assuming the water condition is OK. Also tested 0 nitrites or ammonia; pH is 7.0.
I'm worried because there have been a number of deaths the last 3 days (~1 per day) -- but the deaths could be due to killings -- I can't tell as most of the bodies I recovered were slightly eaten. Just took out a Rusty Cichlid body out that didn't seem to have a scratch on it.
No sign of white spots or Ick.
Questions:
1. What is causing my fishes to scratch so much?
2. How do I keep them from having to scratch?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by pengtsin; 10th Dec 2009 at 20:48. Reason: Updated image.
It's early sign of ich or white spot. However, at this time maybe the white spot is not visible yet. Use protozin to cure.
Isn't UV sterilization an alternate to chemicals for Ich? The extra UV has been running for 10 days already (> one lifecycle of Ich). (I hate to add chemicals unless absolutely necessary.)Originally Posted by shrimppaste
Thanks.
70plus fish sounds like a pretty high bioload to me.
UV is not much use. Use a heater. Up to 32degrees and let the ich ride itself off. Another white spot medication i like to add with heater treatment is Super Ick Cure by API. But usually, just the heater will do the trick if you dislike the medication part.
Eugene (^_^)
De Dwergcichlide Fanatiek
Now swimming: Plecos and Apistogrammas
Wow that's a lot of rocks at a single position. You might want to move some rocks around, because all that weight pressing on a single wide area might be bad for the bottom glass. Just a note though.
As for the ich part, genes is right. Keeping the temperature high for a week + medication is sufficient to end the life cycle of the parasite. I use Sera Costapur for ich treatment, but all the other treatments are just as good.
Fish.. Simply Irresistable
Back to Killies... slowly.
Not to worry (about the weight), three things that are not visible:
1. There's a 15mm base float-glass plate for the tank
2. There's egg crates below the sand to distribute the weight
3. The rocks are porous (pretty light) -- Turkey rainbow stone is what the vendor said it was.
FYI.
Last edited by pengtsin; 11th Dec 2009 at 18:21.
Well in that case, there's little for you to worry. Are your fish still scratching?
Fish.. Simply Irresistable
Back to Killies... slowly.
Still scratching. Didn't want to take the risk, so just started them on Protozin Pro. Day #1.
Keeping fingers crossed.
Last edited by pengtsin; 11th Dec 2009 at 20:38.
Just a quick update...
Tank now stabilized and looking healthy. Only occasional "scratching" (or "flashing").
Not sure if the Protozin was too strong, but I lost more fish during the treatment period (6 days) than before I started. Lost more than 10 cichlids but it probably brought my population down to something more balanced. In the end, I can't even sure that the tank had Ich! But the fish seem a lot happier now.
Also, I replaced the Eheim 2028 with a 2260. There are now two 2260's scrubbing the water, and the water is crystal clear. Frys are appearing (Yellow Labs and Rustys, I think).
Also, I took out the Atman 11W UV lamp, as it seems to be a consensus that UV doesn't really do much to avoid diseases.
In the end, I think I got to my goal: a healthy Lake Malawi tank with 360 views (no visible plumbing).
Thanks to all who helped with advice.
Bookmarks