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I think the adv flowrate is without media, so after adding them and plus the pipe n chiller there would be lesser flow. I would for a stronger one and you can add double tap to adjust the flow, and the tap is also good for pipe maintenance.
There will definitely be some head loss due to the filter media and pipes. With this in mind, I'll get the one with a higher flow rate. To avoid having too strong flow, use poppy pipes like this :Attachment 41513
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I think the adv flowrate is without media, so after adding them and plus the pipe n chiller there would be lesser flow. I would for a stronger one and you can add double tap to adjust the flow, and the tap is also good for pipe maintenance.
I just got ehiem classic 350 at sea view
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look like the motor is outside the canister same like Gex external filter. If you are not aquascaper then I guess its OK, but if you do, then it will make your scape look ugly
Sorry guys new to chiller some terms don't quite understand. Hope able to enlighten. What does its means when you guys mention well insulated tanks? Thickness for glass or some other setups in the inflow/outflow pipes?
For a tank 60x 23x28 cm. what chiller rating would do the job for the tank?
Hope able to give some advice thanks everyone.
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Sharing my little knowledge. Thickness of glass would help on condensation, especially if you are maintaining low temp like 24c and below. You won't water vapour on the tank surface during a hot day. Inlet/outlet is more on water flow, For 2ft tank, 1/10hp chiller would do the job pretty well, it is also ideal getting higher flowrate (pump) of your filter.Originally Posted by seihakou
Rc311 thank for your sharing got some insights
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Hey guys. I'm using a modified hs28a for a 2 ft tank and it's kick in is 10-13mins and kick out is approximately 20-25mins. May I know if this is normal? I read that people have kick ins of half an hour and kick outs at 1.5hrs with a mod but mine seems to be different. Setting at 24 degrees and the chiller kicks on at 25.
Hi Raeburter,
10-15mins for 1/10hp chiller to chill 1c - 2ft tank should be correct. Have you tested the water temp with another thermometer and compare it with your chiller? If the temp is correct, then probably it is right.
Also you might have to consider your tank location whether it is prone to a warmer temp which causes it to raise faster.
I tested it with another thermometer before and the temperature difference was only 0.2 degrees. My tank is near the balcony windows. Even with my external temperature probe, a 10 -15mins kick in is normal? May I know when will it be possible if the kick in is half an hour and kick out 1.5hrs?
Raeburter, faced the same issue as you some time back (frequent kicking in and out) due to the placement of my tank (near windows) until I installed the external temperature controller to have a 2 degrees kick-in instead of just 1 (or 0.5 for my arctica).
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I will just turn it up side down ...
Sounded like a qualified electrical engineer that can do door to door DYI.
electrical /thermo stuff involve safety certification /prerequisites. What happen when there is a malfunction on the remote temp sensor or it drops out of the water? Has the main control unit cater for such a occurrences?
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That is not gonna happen unless you drop the whole chiller inside the tank. What he did is just open the chiller chasing, disconnect on board sensor and connect the external sensor.
The only failure that can happen is when the sensor spoil or the sensor drop outside the tank, which in this case the compressor will keep going and you will get condensation and high PUB bill at the end of the month
I see the probe is not sealed. Just to check, it is meant for underwater condition?
Anything can happen...what one has to be aware is when standard electrical equipment is modified by unqualified or unlicensed person, you risk having your property insurance void.
If fire do breakout and spread beyond your property, yr insurance company would not cover your public liability.
Why not ask equipment manufacturers to provide this feature/ option, you know they have to take care of safety and compliances and go thr' regulatory approval etc.
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Just bought the temperature probe and connector at SLT. Remember to take photos of the connector to the shop. Every shop said they didn't sell until i showed them photos from the forum.
Cool bro. I guess he is giving the reader a reminder. It is nice to share our knowledge but if there is any service charges involved, then responsibility counts.
Hi everyone,
Just did an estimate energy usage of my existing chiller, not sure it would be good to upgrade. Hope to hear some view.
Here they are,
Tank setup: 3ft 90x45x45
Filter use: Eheim Professional
Flow rate: ~950l/hr
Currently using Resun CL280 with external thermostat
1/10hp chiller
280W energy consumption
Chill temp : 26c
Chiller kick in : 27c
Avg time to chill: ~50mins
Holding time for next kick in: 50~70min
Electricity tariff for households is 25.68 cents per kWh
Estimate usage: 50mins x 12 cycles = 600mins = 10 hours a day.
Monthly usage charge: ((280w x 10 hours x 30 days) / 1000) x 25.68cents = $ 21.57
Vs
Upgrade Chiller to Hailea HC-300
1/4hp chiller
432w energy consumption (based on 1.8a x 240v)
Estimate usage: 20mins x 12 cycles = 240mins = 4 hours a day or might be lesser.
Monthly usage charge: ((432w x 4 hours x 30 days) / 1000) x 25.68cents = $ 13.31
Monthly saving of $8.26.
Is my calculation correct?
If so, does it worth spending hundreds? Seems like taking too long for ROI.
What your thought?
interesting!!im not exactly sure but seems like several factors also will affect? while monitoring i noticed some days extremely hot, my chiller tend to kick in more because the tank water temp rise easily. would be it actually more money saving if a little investment is made like insulating the tank sides so can prolong the time before kick in resulting lesser cycles instead ? just a little thought of mine
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