Chiller Flowrate

[jssl]

Thanks bro barmby. Just called them. Pricey. Haha...

[troyz]

hi Jssl...your 3ftx2ftx2ft tank is about 300 litres...
Resun cl280 1/10hp chiller is underpowered for the 322 tank..
it will take a longer time to chill your tank...
since you already bought the chiller, just used it with a higher flowrate filter or a higher flowrate pump..
later on, if you want to upgrade...try to get a 1/4hp chiller...btw you are using mh or T5..

[jssl]

Hi Troyz,
The unique thing abt Juwel tank is that they comes in funny sizes. My Rio180 measures (100Lx41Wx50H)cm. Based on Specs is abt 180 litres. Managed to contact a forumer selling me the temp controller & probe. According to him, just basically plug my CL280 into the temp controller PowerPoint switch & preset the chiller kickin temp to higher range, say 32 deg C. But isn't the chiller going to kickout prematurely again since the internal thermostat is still intact? Unless this temp controller works by bypassing the internal thermostat

[williamng]

Hi

Personally, I think a 1/10 HP chiller is reasonable for your application although it is better to get a size higher [1/8HP or 1/4HP]. I do agree a 1/4 HP chiller is even better in terms of cooling your tank faster but it also consumes more power.

1/10 HP = Cools slower but consume less power
1/4HP = Cools faster but consume more power

End of the day, the amount of electricity you pay is almost the same [Sorry, no data to justify]

So the choice between 1/10 or 1/4 depends on many factors such as tank volume, ambient temperature, heat generated by all the equipments [lights, filter, powerheads etc]

As for the usage, for my old hailea chiller, I set the temperature on the hailea controller to be 20degC then use the external controller to control the temperature. This way, the external controller bypass the chiller temperature controller.

[Shadow]

your external temp controller should have a sensor which suppose to be put inside your tank.

[jssl]

I will get the temp controller & keep you guys updated.

[jssl]

Hi all, set up & connected my external temp controller to CL280 last night. Set kickin temp at 28deg C & kickout temp at 26deg C.
Whole of today kickin is 2.5hrs while kickout is 5hrs. Amazing........
Any comments? I think my chiller is working very hard for the kickin of 2.5hrs.

[MikeKoh]

I have a 6ftx2x2 tank. I also have a sump tank about 2.5ft. I have a artica chiller (1/5hp) with the inlet and outlet both in the sump tank. So it chills the water in the sump tank where there is another pump that sends the chilled water into the main tank. Total I have 2 pumps, one for the chiller and one to send the water back to the main tank.

Is this a good idea....or should I connect the inlet at the sump tank and outlet in the main tank? (use 1 pump, instead, for the chiller AND send the water back to the main tank.)

[Shadow]

Each pump will add heat to the water so if you are picky about efficiency then 1 pump probably better. You also need to see the pump wattage higher wattage normally will be hotter. Another thing to consider is the piping with 2 pump you need more piping.

However, with 2 pump you have the flexibility to take out the chiller for repair.

[barmby]

hi mike, what will you like to achieve? longer kick out or longer kick in?

unfortunately, JBJ webpage for "How to Size a Chiller?" is down

[barmby]

Hi Jssl and mike, this link: http://chiller.jbjlighting.com/prod_chiller_size.asp

It says it all. Many things that contribute to cooling efficiency.

[StanChung]

I read from some website that if the flowrate too high for the chiller, the chiller will have frequent "kick-in" cos water flow out too fast without really chilling the water. So higher electricity bills & maintenance cost.

I don't think this is the case. Water is in direct contact with the coil it would 'chill' no matter how fast the water is and the faster the flow the faster equilibrium is achieved.

The frequent 'kick in' is common for CL280. I surmise that the cooling chamber is too small and kicks in too quickly. The chamber cools down faster than the water can be 'pushed' from the chamber although the rest of the tank is not at the desired temperature yet.

Following Robert's advice and his blog for how to, I removed the sensor and put into the tank by extending the wire and plugging the hole where the sensor was in the cooling chamber.

Colin that link is superb-accurate IMO. Thanks.

[williamng]

i feel it is the sensor placement. If I am not mistaken, the sensor for Artica, Teco chillers are placed near the outlet so I presume this is more accurate in terms of measurement.

As for china made chillers, the sensor is placed inside the reservoir so if reservoir water is not pushed out fast enough, the sensor sense that the water is cold and cut off the chiller.

Robert's method of putting the sensor inside the tank is the best... I used to do that myself and it is great if you dont mind another cable in your tank

[tropic]

I am quite open to add the thermostat to my hailea if the manual shows the installation process.But are most controller able to work on most chiller brand or is there a model which is proven and tested?

[WRT54GS]

I have 4*1.5*1.5 ft tank with Eheim 2028 & Hailea 1/4P chiller with original thermometer. The water temperature is abt 28+ before using chiller, and seting chiller temperature is 26.

Every time of kick-in is only 10 mins, but kickout is from 30mins ~ 1hr 15mins depending on room temperature.

For example, 30 mins for noon time, 1Hr +- for evening time.

[WRT54GS]

Forgot to mention, it took 1hr 25mins to cool the tank from 28+c to 26c for fist run, but soon kick in again. After times in-out-in-out.........stable.